IT'S ALWAYS RISKY TO CHARACTERIZE A PARTICULAR CUISINE. FRANCE, CHINA, SPAIN, ITALY AND THE U.S.A. ARE BLESSED WITH A MYRIAD OF REGIONAL CUISINES, EACH REGION CLAIMING THEIR REGION MAKES THE BEST, THE TRULY AUTHENTIC FOOD IN..YOU NAME IT. WHAT, AFTER ALL, IS CHINESE FOOD? CANTONESE? SZECHUAN? UIGAR? IS FRENCH CUISINE LYONNAISE, PROVENÇALE OR FROM THE AUVERGNE? THE SAME HOLDS TRUE FOR ITALY. STILL, WHEN I THINK OF ITALIAN FOOD, SIMPLICITY IS THE WORD WHICH COMES TO MIND; MAKING MOST OF A FEW INGREDIENTS. IT'S WHAT DIFFERENTIATES MARCELA HAZAN FROM JULIA CHILD. THIS PASTA DISH EXEMPLIFIES THAT DEFINITION: GUANCIALE, ZUCCHINI, PENNE, AND PARMESAN CHEESE. OH, AND WATER. DON'T FORGET THE WATER.
https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/penne-with-guanciale-and-zucchini/

GRATE ABOUT 1 1/2 CUPS OF PARMESAN.
SET A PASTA POT OF WATER TO BOIL. SALT.
DUMP THE ZUCCHINI INTO A SINK FULL OF WATER. ALLOW TO SOAK FOR 15 MINUTES. SCRUB OFF ANY SAND OR GRIT. SLICE CROSSWISE INTO 1/2-INCH PIECES. PLACE IN A COLANDER. TOSS WITH A FEW TBSPS OF COARSE SALT. THIS WILL DRAW OUT A LOT OF THE MOISTURE. AFTER 15 MINUTES, RINSE OFF THE SALT. TOSS TO SHAKE OFF THE WATER, THEN GENTLY ROLL THE ZUCCHINI IN A DISH TOWEL.
CUT THE GUANCIALE INTO LARDONS ABOUT 1/4-INCH WIDE BY AN INCH LONG. PLACE IN A CAST IRON PAN WITH A SPLASH OF OLIVE OIL. BROWN THE GUANCIALE ON A VERY LOW FLAME. REMOVE TO A BOWL WITH A SLOTTED SPOON.
RAISE THE HEAT TO MEDIUM HIGH. BROWN THE ZUCCHINI ON BOTH SIDES, THEN ADD TO THE GUANCIALE, LEAVING THE FAT BEHIND.
BOIL THE PENNE TILL IT'S AL DENTE. SCOOP OUT A CUP OF THE PASTA WATER. DRAIN THE PASTA.
POUR ABOUT 1/3 CUP OF THE GUANCIALE FAT INTO THE PASTA POT OVER MEDIUM HEAT. DUMP IN THE PASTA, ABOUT A 1/2 CUP OF THE PASTA WATER AND SEVERAL HEAPING TBSPS OF PARMESAN. STIR VIGOROUSLY WITH A WOODEN SPOON. THE FAT AND WATER WILL EMULSIFY AND THICKEN.
REDUCE THE HEAT AND STIR IN THE ZUCCHINI AND GUANCIALE. STIR IN MORE PASTA WATER TILL YOU ACHIEVE THE CONSISTENCY YOU WANT.
EMPTY INTO A WARM SERVING BOWL AND SPRINKLE WITH MORE PARMESAN. TOP WITH FRESH CHIVES. SERVE WITH MORE PARMESAN ON THE SIDE.
SERVES 4


