MEAL OF THE WEEK: CREAMED SPINACH

AMONG THE DELIGHTS OF LATE WINTER AND EARLY SPRING IS THE PERSISTENCE OF BLOOMSDALE SPINACH IN THE FARMERS MARKET.  UNLIKE ITS MORE DOMESTICATED COUSIN, BLOOMSDALE SPINACH IS A HARDIER VARIETAL WITH A LEATHERY LEAF WHICH IN ADDITION TO ITS ROBUST FLAVOR, STANDS UP TO COOKING.  IT RETAINS ITS TEXTURE AND DOES NOT REDUCE AS MUCH IN VOLUME.  USUALLY, I SIMPLY WASH AND DRY IT, THEN SAUTÉ IT QUICKLY IN A PAN OR WOK WITH OLIVE OIL AND GARLIC.  BUT MY DAUGHTER SOPHIE ADORES CREAMED SPINACH AND HOW COULD I SAY NO?  CHOPPED LEEKS, GARLIC AND CRÉME FRAÎCHE TRANSFORMS IT INTO A MORE LUXURIOUS SIDE DISH, SUITABLE AS A BED FOR FISH, MEAT OR FOWL.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/creamed-spinach/ 

PORK CHEEKS WITH PEARL ONIONS

PORK CHEEKS ARE A PERFECT CUT FOR BRAISING.  EACH IS THE SAME SIZE AS AN EGG.  THEY HAVE ALMOST NO FAT, SO YOU CAN COOK AND EAT THEM THE SAME DAY.  MOST IMPORTANT, THEY ARE DELICIOUS, FLAVORFUL, WITH A PLEASANTLY RESISTANT TEXTURE.  I OFTEN BRAISE THEM WITH APPLES, HARD CIDER AND CRÉME FRAÎCHE, BUT DECIDED INSTEAD TO SIMPLY COMBINE THEM WITH PEARL ONIONS, POTATOES, WHITE WINE AND STOCK.  I PREPARED THE ENTIRE RECIPE IN ONE DUTCH OVEN.  THIS IS A HEART-WARMING WINTER STEW.  

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/pork-cheeks-with-pearl-onions/

PUNTARELLE

ALONG WITH BRAISED OXTAILS, CACIO E PEPE, AND CARCIOFI ALLA GIUDIA, PUNTARELLE IS ONE OF THE DISHES I MOST ASSOCIATE WITH ROME.  IT FIRST APPEARED LAST YEAR AT THE FARMERS’ MARKET.  THIS YEAR EVERYBODY HAS IT SO IT MUST BE A HIT.  LIKE SO MUCH OF ROMAN FOOD, THIS CRUNCHY GREEN WITH A MILD TASTE IS GIVEN ITS OOMPH FROM A GENEROUS DOSE OF ANCHOVIES, GARLIC, VINEGAR, AND OLIVE OIL.  I ADDED PARMESAN JUST BEFORE SERVING, BUT WITH A SLICE OF CRUSTY BREAD PUNTARELLE WILL HOLD UP QUITE NICELY ON ITS OWN.  

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/punterelle/

ICELANDIC COD STEAMED IN CABBAGE

EACH WINTER I AWAIT THE ARRIVAL OF ICELANDIC COD, WHICH ALONG WITH SKATE AND TURBOT, IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE FISH.  THE THICK-FLAKED WHITE FLESH IS SWEET AND BRINEY.  COD IS MORE FORGIVING THAN HALIBUT OR SWORDFISH, WHICH DRY OUT AND TOUGHEN IF EVEN SLIGHTLY OVER-COOKED.  I USUALLY PAN COOK COD, SKIN SIDE DOWN, BASTING IT WITH BROWN BUTTER.  BUT RECALLING FISH STEAMED IN CABBAGE AT SENDERANS’ L’ARCHESTRA IN PARIS, I DECIDE TO DO THE SAME CHEZ MOI.  THE GREEN CABBAGE LEAVES ARE QUICKLY BOILED TILL MALLEABLE, SO THEY WRAP EASILY AROUND THE THICK FILLETS.  SEPARATELY, I COOKED JAPANESE TURNIPS AND CARROTS.  IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO LOSE WEIGHT, YOU COULD STOP HERE.  BUT WHO CAN RESIST HOLLANDAISE?

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/cod-steamed-in-cabbage/

ENDIVE, KOHLRABI AND PEAR SALAD

THIS ALL WHITE SALAD, ACTUALLY MORE OF A REMOULADE THAN A SALAD, WAS AN INSTANT HIT WHEN I SERVED IT AS A FIRST COURSE AT A RECENT DINNER PARTY.  THE INGREDIENTS — BELGIAN ENDIVE, RAW KOHLRABI AND PEARS — TOSSED IN A CREAMY DRESSING OF LEMON JUICE, MUSTARD AND CRÊME FRAÎCHE; MY VERSION OF A ROBUCHON RECIPE FOR CELERY ROOT REMOULADE.  KOHLRABI IS A NEW DISCOVERY FOR ME:  SIMILAR TO CELERY ROOT, BUT WITH A MORE TURNIP-LIKE TEXTURE AND THE SLIGHT TASTE OF GREEN APPLE.  AT ESTELA IN NEW YORK, IGNACIO MATTOS SLICES IT PAPER THIN AND DRAPES IT OVER TUNA CARPACCIO.  IT’S ALSO GREAT HOT, PARTICULARLY PURÉED WITH POTATO.  PEAR WAS A LAST-MINUTE INSPIRATION SINCE I THOUGHT THE DISH NEEDED A TOUCH OF SWEETNESS TO OFFSET THE BITTERNESS OF THE ENDIVE AND THE SOURNESS OF THE KOHLRABI AND THE DRESSING.  YOU COULD SUBSTITUTE CELERY ROOT FOR THE KOHLRABI, APPLE FOR THE PEARS BUT YOU MIGHT WANT TO GIVE THIS VERSION A SHOT.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/endive-kohlrabi-and-pear-salad/

HANDY GADGET: VACUUM SEALER

I HAVE A SEPARATE FREEZER WHERE I STORE, AMONG OTHER THINGS, HOME-MADE STOCK, FRESH TOMATO PURÉE, DUCK BREASTS, AND FROZEN MEAT.  BUT I’M FORGETFUL AND WAS LOSING SOME OF THESE ITEMS TO FREEZER BURN.  SO A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO I RESEARCHED AND PURCHASED A NESCO VACUUM SEALER.  NO MORE FREEZER BURN.  THIS NIFTY LITTLE APPLIANCE IS PERFECT FOR SEALING DUCK LEGS, STEAKS AND CHOPS, EVEN LIQUIDS.  THE HEAVY PLASTIC AND VACUUM SEALING KEEPS THEM IN PERFECT SHAPE FOR MANY MONTHS .  ALL YOU NEED DO IS DROP WHATEVER YOU WANT TO DEFROST IN A SINK FULL OF LUKEWARM WATER WHERE THEY WILL THAW IN 30 MINUTES OR LESS.  I BOUGHT ROLLS OF EXTRA PLASTIC IN TWO SIZES ONLINE, SINCE THE NESCO ONLY COMES WITH A LIMITED SUPPLY.

EASY DUCK CONFIT

TRUE DUCK CONFIT IS MADE BY IMMERSING SEASONED DUCK LEGS IN DUCK FAT AND POACHING THEM FOR SEVERAL HOURS IN A 200º OVEN.  IT TOOK SEVERAL MONTHS TO COLLECT ENOUGH DUCK FAT FOR THAT PURPOSE, BUT I CONTINUED TO REUSE IT UNTIL IT BEGAN TO TURN, OVER A YEAR LATER.  RECENTLY, HOWEVER, I DISCOVERED TWO RECIPES FOR DUCK CONFIT SANS DUCK FAT:  ONE FROM MELISSA CLARK IN THE N.Y. TIMES AND ANOTHER IN DAVID LEBOVITZ’S EXCELLENT MY PARIS KITCHEN.  EACH USES DIFFERENT SEASONINGS BUT THE TECHNIQUE IS THE SAME AND TO MY DELIGHT, YIELDED DUCK CONFIT JUST AS TENDER AND FLAVORFUL AS THE ORIGINAL.  FOR MY OWN RECIPE, I SELECTED THE SEASONINGS I LIKED FROM EACH.  SINCE ONE DUCK LEG IS A RATHER MEAGER MEAL, I OFTEN ACCOMPANY IT WITH A FEW SLICES OF RARE DUCK BREAST.  https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/easy-duck-confit/

SHEEPHEAD AND ROMANESCO WITH CAPER BROWNED BUTTER​

RELAX.  THIS IS NOT A RECIPE FOR AN ACTUAL SHEEP HEAD, AN ALARMING DISH I SOMETIMES ATE AT A GREEK RESTAURANT CALLED MOLFETA’S ON 8TH AVENUE.  THE SHEEP HEAD FISH, A NATIVE TO CALIFORNIA WATERS, IS SO CALLED BECAUSE ITS HEAD LOOKS LIKE A SHEEP.  IT’S WHITE-FLESHED, FLAKEY WITH A SUGGESTION OF CRAB.  OCCASIONALLY, I POACH FISH OR ROAST WHOLE FISH, BUT MOST OF THE TIME, I PAN-COOK FILLETS, WHICH AT McCALL’S, ARE CONVENIENTLY CUT INTO RESTAURANT-SIZED PORTIONS WITH SKIN ON ONE SIDE.  THIS IS MOST HELPFUL BECAUSE IT KEEPS THE FISH FROM STICKING TO THE PAN AND SEALS IN ITS FLAVOR.  HALFWAY THROUGH THE COOKING. I ADD A HUNK OF BUTTER AND ALTERNATELY BASTE AND COVER UNTIL IT’S DONE.  WHAT’S LEFT IN THE PAN I TURN INTO A SAUCE; IN THIS CASE A BROWNED BUTTER SAUCE WITH CAPERS.  THERE ARE A MYRIAD OF SAUCES YOU CAN CREATE USING THE SAME BASIC TECHNIQUE.  ADDING CAPERS, LEMON JUICE AND WHITE WINE MADE IT A PERFECT MATCH FOR ROMANESCO, CAULIFLOWER’S MORE GLAMOROUS COUSIN, ALTHOUGH I HEARD A NASTY RUMOR THAT SHE’S MOE CLOSELY RELATED TO BROCCOLI.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/sheephead-and-romanesco-with-caper-brown-butter/

PERSIAN LAMB SHANKS

WINTER IS STEW TIME.  EVEN IN SUNNY CALIFORNIA I FIND MYSELF YEARNING FOR HEARTY SOUPS AND BRAISED MEATS.  ONE OF MY FAVORITE CUTS IS LAMB SHANK.  IT’S ALMOST SOLID MEAT WITH A CENTER BONE WHICH ADDS SO MUCH FLAVOR TO THE COOKING LIQUID.  USUALLY, I MAKE A FAIRLY STRAIGHTFORWARD BRAISE WITH ONIONS, CARROTS, CELERY, WHITE WINE AND STOCK.  BUT I DECIDED TO TRY A MORE MIDDLE-EASTERN- INFLECTED VERSION WITH CUMIN, FENNEL SEEDS, LIME AND ORANGE RIND.  I ALWAYS MAKE BRAISES A DAY AHEAD, BECAUSE IT’S EASY TO REMOVE ANY FAT WHICH CONGEALS ON THE TOP, BUT, MORE IMPORTANT, THE FLAVOR DEEPENS OVERNIGHT.  THE NEXT DAY, I ADDED PEARL ONIONS AND CARROTS, WHICH COOK IN THE FEW MINUTES IT TAKES TO RE-HEAT THE LAMB SHANK.  I WAS HAPPY WITH THE RESULT.  THE DISH WAS LIGHTER THAN MY FRENCH VERSION AND THE CUMIN, FENNEL AND CITRUS ZESTS SEEMED THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO THIS VERY MIDDLE-EASTERN CUT OF MEAT. https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/persian-lamb-shank/

A TRIP TO ALHAMBRA: HENRY'S CUISINE

I’M ALWAYS ON THE HUNT FOR A GREAT CHINESE MEAL.  LOS ANGELES IS BLESSED WITH AN EMBARRASSMENT OF RICHES — HUNDREDS OF ASIAN RESTAURANTS STRETCHING EAST FROM DOWNTOWN, SIXTY MILES  INTO THE SAN GABRIEL VALLEY.  HERE YOU CAN FIND PLACES SPECIALIZING IN SEZCHUAN, TAIWANESE, UYGHAR, JIANGSU, AND CANTONESE, TO MENTION ONLY A FEW.  BECAUSE THE AREA IS HOME TO SO MANY CHINESE FROM SO MANY REGIONS IN CHINA, ALTHOUGH WESTERNERS ARE WELCOME, THE RESTAURANTS ARE NEVER AT A LOSS FOR CUSTOMERS WHO PREFER DISHES WHICH REMIND THEM OF HOME.  MY TOP FAVORITE REMAINS JIANG NAN SPRING AND ITS SISTER RESTAURANT CHANG’S GARDEN, BUT HENRY’S CUISINE KEPT POPPING UP ON VARIOUS “BEST” LISTS, INCLUDING THE L.A. TIMES 101 BEST AND EATER L.A.

HENRY’S CUISINE IS NAMED FOR HENRY TU AND HENRY CHAU, WHO FOUNDED THE RESTAURANT.  CALL THE MENU LARGELY CANTONESE, THE CHINESE FOOD YOU PROBABLY GREW UP EATING, BUT THE FLAVORS AND INGREDIENTS INCORPORATE THE SPICES OF VIETNAM AS WELL AS MOREL MUSHROOMS FROM OREGON.  

WE MADE AN EXPLORATORY TRIP TO HENRY’S A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO WITH DEENA AND MARTY AND WERE SO IMPRESSED WITH THE FEW DISHES WE ORDERED THAT I WAS DETERMINED TO RETURN WITH A LARGER GROUP.  SO SUNDAY NIGHT, EIGHT FRESSERS, SOME SHLEPPING FROM AS FAR AWAY AS BRENTWOOD, GATHERED AT A ROUND TABLE FOR A FEAST.  THE RESTAURANT ITSELF, LOCATED AT THE CORNER OF GARFIELD AND VALLEY BOULEVARDS IN ALHAMBRA, MANAGES TO BE BOTH SPACIOUS AND COZY.  THERE ARE BOOTHS ALONG THE PERIPHERY, BUT THE LARGER TABLES ARE SEPARATED FROM EACH OTHER BY GLASS PARTITIONS LIKE YOU’D FIND IN AN OFFICE.  THIS MAKES TALKING A LOT EASIER, WITHOUT FEELING CLAUSTROPHOBIC.  

I’D STUDIED THE MENU AND SUGGESTED TO THE GROUP THAT I ORDER, WHICH SPARED US THE PAIN AND CONFUSION OF EIGHT PEOPLE BARGAINING FOR DISHES.  RESTAURANT PRICES REMAIN SURPRISINGLY REASONABLE IN THE SAN GABRIEL VALLEY, SO I DECIDED TO SPLURGE ON A FIRST COURSE SOUP OF CHICKEN AND MORELS.  FLOATING IN A CLEAR, AMBER BROTH WITH THE SUBTLE YET DECISIVE ESSENCE OF CHICKEN WERE MOREL MUSHROOMS AND CHUNKS OF CHICKEN.  WE WERE OFF TO A GOOD START.  

I’D ASKED ONE OF THE MAITRE D’S TO NOT SERVE EVERYTHING AT ONCE, A REQUEST THAT MOST OFTEN IS COMPLETELY IGNORED ONCE THE ORDER IS DELIVERED TO THE KITCHEN.  BUT MIRACLE OF MIRACLES, THE RESTAURANT COMPLIED.  SO NEXT TO ARRIVE WAS A TRIO OF DISHES — HOUSE SPECIAL LOBSTER VIETNAMESE STYLE, SALTED PIGS FEET, AND BOK CHOY.  THE PIGS FEET, A DESCRIPTIVE THAT INTIMIDATED SEVERAL IN OUR CREW, ARE NOT FEET BUT PORK SHANK, THE SAME CUT AS OSSO BUCO — PORCO BUCO?  THE FLESH WAS PINK, MOST LIKELY CURED, THEN ROASTED ON THE BONE; JUICY AND FLAVORFUL, PARTICULARLY WITH A CRUNCHY SQUARE OF SKIN.  IT REMINDED ME OF PEKING DUCK.  THEY DO GREAT THINGS WITH VEGETABLES AT HENRY’S.  ON OUR PREVIOUS VISIT WE HAD THE BEST SAUTÉED SNOW PEA TENDRILS, BUT THEY RAN OUT SO WE SUBSTITUTED BOK CHOY, WHICH WAS NEARLY AS GOOD.  

A BRIEF RESPITE ENSUED, WHICH GAVE US TIME TO DISCUSS THE FOOD AND TRUMP.  

STRING BEANS FRIED WITH GROUND PORK TURNED OUT TO BE THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO CHICKEN WITH CHESTNUTS AND THE FORMIDABLE BUT SPECTACULAR WHOLE DEEP FRIED SOLE.  “THE MEAT IS SWEETEST CLOSE TO THE BONE” APPLIES TO FISH AS WELL MEAT.  FLASH-FRYING WHOLE SEALED IN THE FLAVOR OF THE WHITE FLESH, WHICH WAS MOIST, DELICATE AND DELICIOUS.  BREAK OFF A CHUNK OF FRIED SKIN AND THE BONES ARE BRITTLE ENOUGH TO CHEW.  

JUST AS WE WERE DESCRIBING HOW AWFUL CHINESE DESSERTS ARE, DESSERT ARRIVED — A LARGE SQUARE WAFFLE STUDDED WITH SPHERES OF WAFFLE.  IT SUBSTANTIATED MY OPINION OF CHINESE DESSERTS, BUT SOME OF US LOVED IT.  IF I HADN’T BEEN SO STUFFED, I WOULD HAVE SUGGESTED WE GO SOMEPLACE FOR ICE CREAM.

HENRY’S CUISINE    301 E. VALLEY BLVD., ALHAMBRA    (626) 576-1288 

BUCATINI WITH ZUCCHINI AND PROSCUITTO

HAVE YOU HAD ENOUGH TURKEY?  HERE’S A PASTA RECIPE WHICH REQUIRES LITTLE PREPARATION AND CAN BE ASSEMBLED Á LA MINUTE.  ZUCCHINI (I USED GREEN AND YELLOW) ARE CUT INTO SMALL BATONS, SO THEY BARELY COOK IN THE HEAT OF THE PASTA, PARMESAN AND PASTA WATER.  TO MAKE THE DISH A BIT MORE SUBSTANTIAL, I ADDED STRIPS OF PROSCUITTO WHICH GIVE THE DISH A BIT MORE PUNCH.  THE TECHNIQUE IS SIMILAR TO CACIO E PEPE, WHERE VIGOROUS STIRRING CREATES AN EMULSION OF LIQUID, CHEESE, OLIVE OIL AND BUTTER; A CREAMY TEXTURE, WHICH, HOPEFULLY, CAN BANISH THE AFTERTASTE OF TURKEY UNTIL NEXT THANKSGIVING ROLLS AROUND.  https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/bucatini-with-zucchini-and-proscuitto/

[cooked-info 

HANGER STEAK WITH TWO SAUCES

HANGER STEAK IS MY FAVORITE CUT OF BEEF, THE PERFECT MARRIAGE OF MEAT AND FAT– THE FORMER GIVING IT A SLIGHTLY CHEWY TEXTURE; THE LATTER, TENDERNESS AND FLAVOR.  AND COMPARED WITH SIRLOIN OR FILLET MIGNON, IT’S A BARGAIN.  MOST HANGER STEAKS ARE SHAPED LIKE A PORK TENDERLOIN AND WEIGH ABOUT A POUND.  TWO WILL EASILY FEED FOUR TO SIX PEOPLE.  I COOK THEM IN A CAST IRON PAN OVER HIGH HEAT, SEASONING THEM WITH NOTHING MORE THAN SALT AND PEPPER.  BUT IF YOU’RE A LITTLE MORE AMBITIOUS, TAKE A CRACK AT IGNACIO (ESTELA) MATTOS’ VERSION, PAN-COOKED BUT EMBELLISHED WITH TWO SAUCES — A SPICY SALSA VERDE AND A DECADENT CONCOCTION OF TALLEGIO AND CREAM.  MATTOS INCLUDES BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN HIS PUBLISHED RECIPE, BUT YOU’VE GOT PLENTY OF OPTIONS, SINCE PRACTICALLY ANY VEGETABLE TASTES GREAT WITH HANGER STEAK. https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/hanger-steak-with-two-sauces/ 

POTATOES ANNA

THERE’S NO POTATO DISH QUITE LIKE POTATOES ANNA.  THIN DISKS OF POTATOES ARE LAYERED AND SLATHERED WITH CLARIFIED BUTTER, SEASONED GENEROUSLY WITH SALT AND BLACK PEPPER, AND SLOW-ROASTED IN A LOW OVEN TILL THE EDGES CRISP, WHILE THE CENTERS REMAIN SOFT. YOU CAN THROW IN SOME SPRIGS OF THYME OR ROSEMARY, BUT YOU DON’T WANT TO OVERWHELM THE PURE POTATO TASTE WHICH THIS DISH SO EFFORTLESSLY DELIVERS.  IT’S CERTAINLY EASY ENOUGH TO ASSEMBLE, BUT ONCE THE POTATOES START TO BROWN, KEEP AN EYE ON THEM SO THEY DON’T TURN INTO POTATO CHIPS.  THEY’RE GOOD WITH JUST ABOUT ANYTHING — FISH, FOWL, LAMB, OR ON THEIR OWN WITH A SALAD ON THE SIDE AND A DRY RIESLING.https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/potatoes-anna/  

 

ROAST SQUAB WITH LARDONS AND POTATOES

JOËL ROBUCHON MUST HAVE LOVED SQUAB AS MUCH AS I DO, BECAUSE THERE ARE FOUR SQUAB RECIPES IN THE COMPLETE ROBUCHON.  ROBUCHON’S DIRECTIONS ARE MINIMAL AND PRECISE AND, SO FAR, THEY’RE ALL GOOD.  THIS PARTICULAR TREATMENT INCLUDES LARDONS AND NEW POTATOES.  IT TAKES ABOUT 30 MINUTES TO PREPARE BECAUSE THE SQUABS, AFTER FIVE MINUTES OF BROWNING, ARE ROASTED IN A COVERED POT FOR ONLY 20 MINUTES, SO THEY COME OUT PINK, AS THEY SHOULD BE.  ANYTHING MORE AND THEY QUICKLY TURN TOUGH.  ROASTING THEM WITH THE POTATOES AND SOME CHICKEN STOCK ENSURES THAT THEY COME OUT MOIST AND TENDER ENOUGH TO CUT WITH A STEAK KNIFE.  THE POTATOES BECOME ALMOST LUXURIOUSLY CREAMY WITHOUT LOSING THEIR SHAPE.  IF YOU WANT TO SHOW OFF, THIS IS THE DISH TO DO IT WITH. 

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/squab-with-potatoes/

 

CHICKEN WITH ONIONS AND MORELS

MOST OF TIME I TRY AND POST RECIPES WHICH ARE RELATIVELY EASY TO MAKE; DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN LESS THAN AN HOUR AND OFTEN LESS THAN THAT.  ONCE IN A WHILE, HOWEVER, I MAKE SOMETHING A BIT MORE CHALLENGING.  THIS RECIPE FOR CHICKEN WITH MORELS AND PEARL ONIONS IS NOT PARTICULARLY DIFFICULT, BUT THERE ARE A LOT OF MOVING PARTS.  THE COORDINATION OF ITS VARIOUS COMPONENTS — CHICKEN, PEARL ONIONS, LEEKS, MORELS, AND CRÊME FRAÎCHE — IS INSTRUCTIVE.  THIS IS ESSENTIALLY A ONE-POT RECIPE.  THE STEPS ARE ARRANGED WITH THAT IN MIND.  I TRY AND CONSOLIDATE THEM SO I’M NOT WAITING AROUND FOR THE CHICKEN TO BROWN OR THE MORELS TO SOAK.  FOLLOW THEM IN ORDER AND YOUR PREP TIME SHOULD CLOCK IN AT LESS THAN AN HOUR.  THE MELDING OF CHICKEN, MORELS, ONIONS, AND CRÊME FRAÎCHE IS SO RICH AND SATISFYING, HOWEVER, YOUR GUESTS WILL THINK YOU’VE BEEN SLAVING FOR DAYS.  

NOTE:  FRESH MORELS ARE A LUXURY WHICH ARE ONLY BRIEFLY IN SEASON AND PRICEY WHEN THEY ARE.  DRIED MORELS, HOWEVER, ARE EASY TO FIND ONLINE AND ONCE THEY’RE REHYDRATED AND BLENDED WITH THE OTHER INGREDIENTS, I DARE YOU TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE.  I GOT MINE FROM EUGENE MUSHROOM COMPANY.  ‎https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/chicken-with-morels-and-pearl-onions/

SHRIMP AND POTATO SALAD

THIS ADAPTABLE DISH CAN BE SERVED HOT OR COLD, AS A FIRST COURSE OR A LUNCHEON ENTRÉE.  ESSENTIALLY, IT’S A FRENCH POTATO SALD WITH A LIGHT, OLIVE OIL DRESSING, MACERATED RED ONION, AND A FINAL TOPPING OF SAUTÉED SHRIMP.  YOU COULD CERTAINLY ADD SLICED FENNEL AND/OR A VARIETY OF RADISHES AND CHANGE THE FLAVOR PROFILE WITH FRESH TARRAGON, DILL, CILANTRO, PARSLEY, BASIL, AND MY PERENNIAL FAVORITE, CHIVES.  MAKE THE POTATO SALAD AHEAD OF TIME AND ALL YOU NEED DO IS SAUTÉ THE SHRIMP BEFORE SERVING.  IT’S A GREAT RECIPE FOR WARM WEATHER.  THE POTATOES GIVE IT SOME HEFT AND PROVIDE A MILDLY EARTHY BACKDROP FOR THE TASTY SHRIMP.  https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/shrimp-and-potato-salad/

ZUCCHINI WITH FRESH TOMATO SAUCE

EACH TIME I RETURN TO THE FARMERS’ MARKET, A NEW VARIETY OF SUMMER SQUASH APPEARS ON THE STANDS.  THERE ARE ENORMOUS GREEN OR YELLOW ZUCCHINI, TINY VERSIONS OF THE SAME, SOME WTH SMOOTH SKINS, OTHERS ROUGH AND RIBBED, AND PRETTY LITTLE ROUND SQUASHES.  AND THERE ARE ALMOST AN EQUAL NUMBER OF WAYS TO COOK THEM.  THEY ARE ALWAYS DELICIOUS JUST GRILLED WITH A SQUEEZE OF LEMON.  YOU CAN SAUTÉ THEM, DEEP FRY THEM LIKE FRENCH FRIES, PEEL THEM AND SERVE THEM RAW IN A SALAD,  OR INCLUDE THEM IN A RATATOUILLE.  GARLIC AND TOMATOES SEEM A NATURAL MATCH FOR ZUCCHINI. THAT IS WHAT HAPPENS IN THIS SIMPLE RECIPE, WHICH CAN BE MADE IN ADVANCE OR WHIPPED UP À LA MINUTE. https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/zucchini-with-garlic-and-tomatoes/

 

STRING BEAN AND POTATO SALAD

POLE BEANS, WHICH INCLUDE STRING  BEAN BEANS, HARICOTS VERTS, WAX BEANS AND DRAGON BEANS, ARE PILED HIGH ON THE STANDS IN THE SUNDAY MARKET AND I’VE COOKED ALL OF THEM.  POLE BEANS ARE ENDLESSLY ADAPTABLE.  YOU CAN BOIL THEM, STEAM THEM, SAUTÉ, OR EVEN BRAISE THEM.  LESS IS MORE IN MY BOOK BECAUSE THEY ARE PACKED WITH FLAVOR.  THE TRICK IS NEVER TO OVERCOOK THEM.  DEPENDING ON THEIR THICKNESS, A FEW MINUTES IN BOILING WATER AND THEY’RE DONE.  I USUALLY SERVE THEM HOT, TOSSED IN BUTTER AND HERBS.  BUT THEY ARE EXCELLENT AT ROOM TEMPERATURE; IN THIS CASE, COMBINED WITH STEAMED NEW POTATOES IN A SHALLOT/MUSTARD DRESSING.  THEY SERVED AS THE ONE SIDE DISH FOR A STEAK DINNER:  STRING BEANS AND POTATOES AND YOU’RE COVERED.  https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/stringbean-and-potato-salad/

FRIED FISH WITH SUMMER SALSA AND ZUCCHINI BATONS

ROCK COD FROM SANTA BARBARA WITH ITS PRETTY PINK SKIN IS ONE OF OUR FEW TRULY LOCAL FISHES.  IT’S WHITE FLESH IS FIRMER, LESS FLAKEY THAN ITS ATLANTIC COUSIN AND MUCH MORE FLAVORFUL THAN HALIBUT.  CHEAPER, TOO.  I USUALLY PAN COOK THE SKIN-ON FILLETS, THEN MAKE A SAUCE WITH THE PAN JUICES, SHALLOTS, LEMON, OR CHOPPED TOMATOES.  A DASH OF SAFFRON NEVER HURTS.  BUT I’VE BEEN TRYING TO EXPAND MY WOK SKILLS AND HAVE FOUND THAT AMONG THE MYRIAD OF COOKING TECHNIQUES YOU CAN EXECUTE IN THIS MULTI-PURPOSE POT/PAN, FRYING IS ONE OF THE SIMPLEST.  I WANTED JUST A LITTLE CRUNCH ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FISH, SO I DREDGED THE FILLETS IN A COMBINATION OF SEMOLINA AND WONDRA FLOUR JUST BEFORE FRYING.  IN LESS THAN FIVE MINUTES, THE SKIN TURNED GOLDEN AND THE FISH WAS DONE– JUICY ON THE INSIDE; SLIGHTLY CRUNCHY ON THE OUTSIDE.  I’D PREPARED A TOMATO SALSA WITH SPRING ONIONS, A WHITE NECTARINE, FRESH BASIL, MINT, AND A PINCH OF CHILI FLAKES.  BEFORE COOKING THE FISH, I FRIED BATONS OF ZUCCHINI DREDGED IN THE FLOUR MIXTURE.  I INVITE YOU TO TRY THE SAME TECHNIQUE WITH THE FISH OF YOUR CHOICE, SHRIMP OR SCALLOPS.  AND DO YOURSELF A FAVOR.  BUY A WOK.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/fried-rock-cod-with-tomato-salsa/

PROSCUITO AND MELON SALAD WITH ARUGULA AND STONE FRUIT

MELONS ARE ONE OF SUMMER’S JOYS.  DUE TO THE COOL WEATHER, THEY WERE LATE TO ARRIVE THIS YEAR ALONG WITH STONE FRUIT AND TOMATOES, BUT FINALLY MELONS OF EVERY TYPE ARE PILED ON THE WEISER FARM STAND.  HONEY DEW, CAVAILLON, CANARY MELONS, AND SUGAR KISS.  WEISER PICKS THEM RIPE OR NEARLY RIPE AND EVERY ONE I’VE ONE I’VE TASTED HAS BEEN SWEET AND JUICY WITH VARYING DEGREES OF CITRUS AND PERFUME.  I’LL EAT THEM HAPPILY WITH JUST A SQUEEZE OF LIME, BUT I’M PARTICULARLY PARTIAL TO PROSCUITTO AND MELON.  FOR A VARIATION ON THAT RECIPE, HOWEVER, I CUT THE MELON INTO CHUNKS AND TOSSED IT WITH PROSCUITTO, ARUGULA, APRICOTS, AND LIME JUICE.  THAT SEEMED TO TOUCH ALL BASES — SWEET, SALTY, SOUR, AND BITTER.  SO I’M SHARING IT WITH YOU.  IT’S THE PERFECT SUMMER SALAD. ‎https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/proscuitto-and-melon-salad/

SUMMER FAVORITES

WE ALL HAVE FAVORITE RECIPES.  MINE ARE SEASONAL.  MY COOKING IS MARKET-DRIVEN, MEANING I DON’T PLAN MY MENUS BEFORE I SHOW UP AT THE SUNDAY FARMERS’ MARKET AND SEE WHAT’S GOOD.  SUMMER, OF COURSE, IS THE MOST ABUNDANT; TOO MANY CHOICES, AN EMBARRASSMENT OF RICHES.  THERE ARE CERTAIN RECIPES, HOWEVER, WHICH I MAKE EVERY SUMMER.  MARCELA HAZAN’S RAW TOMATO AND HERB PASTA IS ONE.  THE GAZPACHO FROM PAIN QUOTIDIEN IS ANOTHER.  ALL KINDS OF SALADS.  SOFT SHELL CRABS.  HERE’S TO SUMMER.  

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/spaghetti-with-raw-tomatoes-and-herbs/

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

GAZPACHO WITH BASIL PESTO

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/sugar-snap-peas/

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/ratatouille/

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/sorrel-soup/

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/red-peppers-and-radicchio/

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/asparagus-and-snap-pea-salad/

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/broiled-soft-shell-crabs/

PORK CHOPS WITH APPLES AND CREAM

PORK CHOPS ARE A UNIVERSAL FAVORITE BUT TRICKY TO COOK.  FOR TWO REASONS:  THE MOST POPULAR CUT IS THE RIB CHOP, WHERE MOST OF THE FAT IS ONE THE OUTSIDE.  FAT IS NOT ONLY A SOURCE OF FLAVOR (THINK BACON), BUT IT ALSO BASTES THE TISSUE AS IT COOKS, KEEPING IT MOIST AS WELL AS TASTY.  AND DESPITE THE ZERO RISK OF TRICHINOSIS IN PORK, A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE LEERY ABOUT EATING “UNDER-COOKED” PORK.  WHEN A PORK CHOP IS COOKED PAST PINK IT GETS TOUGH AND DRY.  ONE FIX IS TO LOOK FOR OTHER CUTS.  MY FAVORITE IS THE PORK COLLAR STEAK, WHICH IS VEINED WITH ENOUGH FAT TO KEEP IT JUICY EVEN IF YOU STRAY PAST PINK IN THE COOKING.  THE OTHER IS OBVIOUS– DON’T OVERCOOK IT.  THIS RECIPE IS A FAIL-SAFE.  THE CHOPS ARE FIRST BROWNED.  THEN YOU MAKE A SAUCE WITH APPLES, A TOUCH OF CALVADOS AND A GENEROUS AMOUNT OF CRÊME FRAÎCHE. MY GO-TO GASTRONOMIC PANACEA.  YOU RETURN THE BROWNED CHOPS TO THE PAN TO WARM UP IN THE SAUCE.  THE CONTRAST BETWEEN THE SWEETNESS OF THE PORK AND THE SOUR TANG OF THE APPLES IS ALMOST IRRESISTIBLE.  https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/pork-chops-with-apples-and-cream/

POACHED COD WITH SNAP PEAS AND JAPANESES TURNIPS

I TRY TO COOK SEASONALLY, ALLOWING WHAT SHOWS UP AT THE FARMERS’ MARKET TO SHAPE MY MENUS.  BUT BECAUSE I TEND TO OVERSHOP, I LIKE TO USE WHAT’S IN MY REFRIGERATOR TOO.  FRESH COD (ICELANDIC) SHOWED UP  THIS WEEK AT McCALL’S MEAT AND FISH.  I CONFESS A WEAKNESS FOR COD WITH ITS MOIST AND FLAVORFUL FLAKES.  AND WHEREAS MOST FISH HAVE JUMPED ALARMINGLY IN PRICE, COD, AT $27/LB, IS A BARGAIN.  PEAS IN EVERY SHAPE AND FORM ARE RESPLENDENTLY HEAPED ON THE VEGETABLE STANDS:  ENGLISH PEAS, SNOW PEAS, SNOW PEA LEAVES, AND SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEY ARE SO FRESH AND BRILLIANTLY WITH TASTE THAT THEY BARELY REQUIRE COOKING.  COWERING IN A CORNER OF MY VEGETABLE BIN WAS A BAG OF SAD LITTLE WHITE JAPANESE TURNIPS, WHICH I’D NEGLECTED FOR SEVERAL WEEKS.  BUT ROOT VEGETABLES  HAVE A LONG SHELF LIFE.  TO PULL THEM ALL TOGETHER INTO ONE HARMONIOUS DISH I WHIPPED UP A BUERRE BLANC IN THE SAME PAN I’D POACHED THE COD.  AND, YES, IT WAS JUST AS GOOD AS IT LOOKS.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/poached-cod-with-lemon-buerre-blanc/

IN PAST YEARS FOR THANKSGIVING, I’VE COME IN ON A LOCAL; THAT IS, I POST MY RECIPES FOR THIS ULTIMATE FOOD-CENTRIC HOLIDAY AFTER THANKSGIVING, WHICH, WHEN YOU COME TO THINK OF IT, IS JUST DUMB.  I’D LIKE TO CORRECT THAT ERROR OF OMISSION BY POSTING SOME RECIPES IN THE FEW WEEKS REMAINING BEFORE EVERYONE SITS DOWN TO EAT.  

THANKSGIVING IS AN ORGY OF EXCESS.  TOO MANY DISHES, TOO MANY RICH DISHES, TOO MANY DESSERTS.  BUT THAT’S THE POINT, ISN’T IT?  NEVERTHELESS, I COMPENSATE BY OFF-SETTING THE CREAMY AND STARCHY WITH GREEN VEGETABLES, WHICH I PREPARE SIMPLY, SO THE GREEN STAYS GREEN.  THAT MAY INCLUDE STRING BEANS AND/OR BRUSSELS SPROUTS (SEE RECIPE).  SOMETIMES, I ROUGHLY CUT UP CABBAGE, CHARD, KALE OR A COMBINATION OF THEM AND WHILE THE BIRD IS RESTING, TOSS THE GREENS INTO THE PAN AND RETURN TO OVEN AT A HIGH HEAT, WHERE THEY WILL WILT NICELY ABSORBING THE DRIPPINGS.  I SPREAD THEM ON  A SERVING PLATTER AND TOP THEM WITH THE CUT UP TURKEY.

CREAMED ONIONS (SEE RECIPE) HAVE THE BLESSING OF BEING BOTH RICH AND PIQUANT.  

NEXT WEEK, I’LL POST THIS YEAR’S TURKEY RECIPE, PLUS A FEW MORE SIDE DISHES, GRAVY, AND CRANBERRY SAUCE.  WITH LUCK I’LL TWIST LYNN’S ARM TILL SHE CONTRIBUTES A FEW OF HER INCOMPARABLE DESSERTS.  


PAN-SEARED BRUSSELS SPROUTS 

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/pan-seared-brussels-sprouts/

CREAMED ONIONS

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/creamed-onions/

I’LL ADD PHOTOS TO THE RECIPES AFTER THANKSGIVING.

MORE OFTEN THAN NOT I PAN COOK MY FISH.  I BUY FILLETS OF STRIPED BASS, SNAPPER,  SWORDFISH, BRANZINO, OR COD, A THIRD TO HALF A POUND EACH.  McCALL’S MEAT AND FISH, WHICH HAS STORES IN HOLLYWOOD AND SANTA MONICA, OFFERS A LIMITED SELECTION OF SUSHI-GRADE FISH; MOST, RESTAURANT PORTIONS WITH THE SKIN ON ONE SIDE. THE SKIN KEEPS THE FISH MOIST AND ADDS TO ITS FLAVOR.  COOKED SKIN SIDE DOWN, THE FISH DOESN’T STICK TO THE PAN. I DON’T TURN THE FISH OVER.  INSTEAD, AFTER BROWNING THE SKIN I TOSS IN SOME HERBS AND A HUNK OF BUTTER, ALTERNATELY, BASTING AND COVERING THE FISH TILL IT IS COOKED THROUGH. 

 THIS COMBINATION OF STEAMING AND BUTTER-BASTING INFUSES THE FISH WITH FLAVOR WITHOUT DRYING IT OUT.  

YOU CAN NOW QUIT YOU’RE AHEAD,  PLATE THE FILLETS AND SERVE.  BUT WHY WASTE ALL THOSE CRUNCHY BROWN BITS IN THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN?  TOSS IN SOME CHOPPED SHALLOTS OR SCALLIONS, COOK BRIEFLY, THEN DE-GLAZE THE PAN WITH A FEW TABLESPOONS OF WHITE WINE, STOCK, OR WATER WITH A SQUEEZE OF LEMON JUICE.  TO GIVE YOUR SAUCE A SHEEN, TURN OFF THE HEAT AND BEAT IN A COUPLE OF TEASPOONS OF BUTTER.  THIS WILL THICKEN THE SAUCE.  SPOON IT OVER THE FILLETS AND SERVE.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/how-to-pan-cook-fish/

ARBAT GROCERY

ARBAT IS AN ARMENIAN GROCERY STORE ON THE CORNER OF ALEXANDRIA AND HOLLYWOOD BOULEVARD, ALTHOUGH “GROCERY STORE” IS A MISNOMER BECAUSE ARBAT PACKS A SUPERMARKET’S-WORTH OF PRODUCE, CHEESES, MEAT, FRESH FRUIT, GRAINS, PASTA, BREAD, COOKING OILS, PRESERVES, AND DAIRY ITEMS INTO A TINY SPACE.  IT MAY FEEL LIKE A GROCERY STORE BUT IT DELIVERS LIKE A SUPERMARKET.

Arbat-3-300x270.jpeg

Arbat-2-300x235.jpeg

ARBAT IS EMPHATICALLY ARMENIAN.  I’D BEEN BUYING FETA THERE FOR SEVERAL MONTHS.  ARBAT HAS ABOUT EIGHT DIFFERENT FETAS INCLUDING MY FAVORITES, BULGARIAN AND FRENCH, RANGING IN PRICE FROM $3.99 TO $6.99.  BUT MANY OF THE SALESPEOPLE ONLY SPEAK ARMENIAN AND I WAS VIEWED WITH SUSPICION.  IT TOOK A WHILE TO GET A SMILE FROM ANYONE IN THE STORE.

THEN I BEGAN TO NOTICE WHAT WAS IN THE STORE.

LAMB NECK, WHICH MAKES THE BEST LAMB STEW AND IS NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND.  QUAIL, SEASONED WITH SALT, PEPPER AND PAPRIKA.  HUNGARIAN SLAB BACON AND A WIDE VARIETY OF CHEESES AND SAUSAGES MOST OF WHICH I DIDN’T RECOGNIZE.  OLIVES, OLIVES, OLIVES.  FRESHLY-BAKED LAVASH, A SHEET-LIKE FLATBREAD, BLISTERED, THIN AND FOLDABLE.  A LOT OF THE PRODUCE, PARTICULARLY THE FRUIT, IS LOCALLY-SOURCED.  IN SEASON, YOU’LL FIND FRESH GREEN ALMONDS, GRAPE LEAVES, DATES, FRESH FIGS, PURSLANE, AND DANDELION GREENS.  GO ON TUESDAY OR FRIDAY AFTER 12 FOR GLISTENING BUNCHES OF FRESH TARRAGON, DILL, ITALIAN PARSLEY, CILANTRO, GREEN OR OPAL BASIL.  THERE ARE BINS OF SPANISH, BROWN, AND PEARL ONIONS.  THE CUCUMBERS ARE PERSIAN, SMALL AND PERFECT.  IF YOU’RE LAZY, PICK UP A PLASTIC CONTAINER OF PEELED, WHOLE GARLIC CLOVES.

Arbat-1-300x252.jpeg

AT THE BACK OF THE STORE IS A DAIRY CASE WHERE IN ADDITION TO PRÉSIDENT AND LURPAK BUTTER, THERE ARE BUTTERS WITH CYRILLIC LETTERS, FARMER CHEESE, YOGURT, LABNE, AND TAN.  SQUEEZE AROUND A CORNER AND YOU’RE FACING A CASE WITH MORE FETAS AND CHEESES PLUS PACKAGED SMOKED SALMON AND STURGEON.  THERE ARE FROZEN PELMENI AND FROZEN FILO DOUGH.

IF YOU’VE GOT A SWEET TOOTH YOU’VE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE.  BOXES AND BOXES OF CHOCOLATES, CARAMELS, AND BRITTLE.  BINS OF DRIED ALMONDS, WALNUTS, PECANS, APRICOTS, AND FIGS.

Arbat-4-300x264.jpeg

HOW ABOUT THE PRICES?  I THOUGHT YOU’D NEVER ASK.  ROUGHLY 25% TO 40% LESS THAN GELSON’S OR WHOLE FOODS.  DRISCOLL RASPBERRIES AND BLUEBERRIES ARE NEARLY HALF THE PRICE.  A ONE-POUND BLOCK OF FETA COSTS $7.49 AT WHOLE FOODS;  $3.99 AT ARBAT.  LURPAK BUTTER:  $7.79 AT WHOLE FOODS; $4.99 AT ARBAT.  AT $4.99/BUNCH FRESH TARRAGON IS ARBAT’S PRICIEST FRESH HERB BUT IS EQUAL IN QUANTITY TO FOUR MEASLY BUNCHES AT THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS MARKET.

I HEARD RECENTLY FROM SOMEONE IN THE SUPERMARKET BUSINESS THAT TO A CERTAIN EXTENT FOOD PRICING IS ARBITRARY.  PRICES ARE GAUGED TO THE CUSTOMER BASE.  IF YOU LIVE IN BEVERLY HILLS YOU PAY MORE FOR YOUR FOOD BECAUSE YOU CAN AFFORD IT AND DON’T PAY MUCH ATTENTION TO THE PRICES.  BUT WHEN WAITING IN LINE AT THE CHECKOUT COUNTER AT ARBAT, I WATCH OLD LADIES DOLING OUT NICKELS AND PENNIES FROM THEIR CHANGE PURSES TO PAY FOR THEIR LAVASH, FETA, OLIVES, DATES, AND PERSIMMONS.  AND WHEN IT’S MY TURN, THE CASHIER, A VERY PRETTY WOMAN WHOSE HAIR COLOR CHANGES EVERY FEW MONTHS, SMILES AT ME AND EVEN SAYS, “HELLO!”

A FEW KIND WORDS ABOUT RISOTTO

EVERYBODY LOVES PASTA.  EVERYBODY COOKS PASTA.  MOST PEOPLE LOVE RISOTTO.  FEW PEOPLE COOK RISOTTO.  WHY IS THAT?  THIS BURNING QUESTION HAS PUZZLED FOOD WRITERS AND GASTRO-HISTORIANS FOR CENTURIES.  YET THE ANSWER IS OBVIOUS:  PRACTICALLY EVERY RECIPE FOR RISOTTO DIRECTS THE COOK TO STAND AT A HOT STOVE, STIRRING AND ADDING INCREMENTAL QUANTITIES OF STOCK UNTIL THE ARBORIO RICE BECOMES PERFECTLY AL DENTE AND FIT TO SERVE.  THIS IS SIMPLY NOT TRUE!  I ONCE ASKED EVAN KLEIMAN, JAMES BEARD WINNER, AUTHOR OF EIGHT VOLUMES ON ITALIAN COOKERY, MODERATOR OF GOOD FOOD ON KCRW, AND FORMER RESTAURANTEUR (TRATTORIA ANGELI AND ANGELI CAFFE) HOW HER RESTAURANT HANDLED RISOTTO ORDERS IF EACH TOOK 40 MINUTES TO PREPARE.  “OH, WE PARTIALLY COOK THE RISOTTOS IN THE MORNING AND SPREAD THEM ON SHEET PANS.  WHEN AN ORDER COMES IN WE SCOOP OUT THE PORTION, PUT IN THE POT AND STIR IN THE LIQUID TO FINISH THE DISH.  TAKES ABOUT TEN MINUTES.”  AND THAT IS HOW I’VE COOKED RISOTTO EVER SINCE.  I SWEAT MY VEGETABLES IN A LITTLE OLIVE OIL AND A GENEROUS GLOB OF BUTTER, STIR IN THE RICE, ADDING ABOUT 3 CUPS OF LIQUID.  I STIR IT WITH A WOODEN FORK TO SEPARATE THE GRAINS AND WHEN IT REACHES A BOIL, I TURN OFF THE HEAT AND COVER IT.  WHEN MY GUESTS ARE FINISHING THEIR FIRST COURSE, I RESUME COOKING, ADDING MORE BROTH UNTIL THE RISOTTO IS AL DENTE AND LIQUIDY.  A HUNK OF BUTTER AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF PARMESAN STOP THE COOKING.  RISOTTO MILANESE IS OSSO BUCO’S CLASSIC ACCOMPANIMENT, BUT WHATEVER RISOTTO YOU CHOOSE TO MAKE (AND THERE AS MANY RISOTTO RECIPES AS THERE ARE RECIPES FOR PASTA) THE TECHNIQUE IS THE SAME.  THERE!  YOU CAN MAKE RISOTTO NOW AT PEACE IN YOUR VERY OWN HOME.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/risotto-milanese/

 

WHY I LOVE MY WOK

SIX MONTHS AGO I BOUGHT A WOK, A REAL CARBON STEEL FLAT-BOTTOMED WOK WITH A WOODEN HANDLE.

AS MUCH AS I LOVE CHINESE FOOD, I’VE ALWAYS BEEN TIMID ABOUT COOKING IT:  A) BECAUSE THERE’S SO MUCH GOOD CHINESE FOOD IN LOS ANGELES AND B) BECAUSE IT MEANT STOCKING MY PANTRY WITH A WHOLE LOT OF INGREDIENTS I DON’T KNOW HOW TO USE.  SO I STARTED OFF SLOWLY, TIP-TOEING INTO CHINESE COOKING WITH GREEN VEGETABLES, MOSTLY SPINACH, CHARD, BROCCOLI, AND CABBAGE.  WHAT’S GREAT ABOUT MY WOK  IS THAT IT’S BIG.  YOU CAN THROW IN TWO WHOLE BUNCHES OF SPINACH AND TOSS THEM WITH SOME GARLIC, FRESH GINGER, CHILES, ET VOILA! OR WHATEVER ITS EQUIVALENT IN MANDARIN.  DESPITE A DISASTROUS ATTEMPT AT TEMPURA (NOT CHINESE), MY VEGETABLE SUCCESSES EMPOWERED ME.  FACED WITH A POUND’S-WORTH OF LEFTOVER PORK CHOPS, A PALE PURPLE CHINESE CABBAGE, LOTS OF SCALLIONS, A HUNK OF FRESH GINGER, AND AN UNOPENED JAR OF GARLIC/BLACK BEAN PASTE, I DUG OUT MY COPY OF THE THOUSAND RECIPE CHINESE COOKBOOK BY GLORIA BLEY MILLER, PUBLISHED BY RANDOM HOUSE IN 1966!  BEHOLD, 300 PAGES (PAGES NOT RECIPES) OF STIR FRY DISHES.  AS DAUNTING AS THAT SEEMED, THE BASIC TECHNIQUE WAS THE SAME FOR ALL OF THEM.  IN CHINESE COOKING, WHERE THOUSANDS OF DISHES ARE PREPARED IN THIS ONE REMARKABLE VESSEL, THE COOKING IS IN THE PREP; YOU SPEND MOST OF YOUR TIME SLICING AND DICING.  YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE IS YOUR DISH OR WILL BECOME YOUR DISH WITH ONLY A FEW MINUTES OF ACTUAL COOKING.  AND MIRACLE OF MIRACLES, IT WORKED!

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/chinese-style-stir-fried-pork/

LINK TO MY WOK https://www.amazon.com/gp/buyagain/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_bia?ie=UTF8&ats=eyJjdXN0b21lcklkIjoiQTNHSDJCWE5YSjAwSkMiLCJleHBsaWNpdENhbmRpZGF0ZXMiOiJCMDg0%0ARk1LVFk2In0%3D%0A

UNICORN
THE WORLD'S BEST PEPPER GRINDER

UNICORN PEPPER MILLS ARE APTLY-NAMED BECAUSE THEY ARE RARE AND HARD TO FIND.  YOU WON’T SPOT THEM AT WILLIAMS-SONOMA, SUR LA TABLE OR IN THE KITCHEN SECTIONS OF DEPARTMENT STORES.  THIS IS BECAUSE THEIR INVENTOR TOM DAVID, WHOSE FIRST PRODUCT OF THIS TYPE WAS THE PEPPERGUN (A ONE-HANDED GRINDER SINCE DISCONTINUED), DOESN’T CARE ABOUT HOW MANY UNICORNS HE SELLS.  ACCORDING TO ONE OF HIS THIRTY OR SO ADORING EMPLOYEES, MR. DAVID IS A SUCCESSFUL INDUSTRIAL DESIGNER, WHO LIVES AND WORKS ON NANTUCKET ISLAND WHERE THE UNICORN FACTORY IS LOCATED.  “HE DOESN’T CARE ABOUT MONEY, SO HE DOESN’T CARE ABOUT WIDELY MARKETING HIS PEPPER MILLS,” SHE TOLD ME.

UNICORN PEPPER MILLS COME IN SEVERAL SIZES BUT I’M PARTICULAR TO THE MAGNUM,WHICH STANDS FIVE AND A HALF INCHES HIGH AND IS TWO INCHES IN DIAMETER.  UNLIKE THE IT’S TALLER AND HOUR-GLASS-SHAPED COUSIN LE PEUGOT,  THE SQUATTER UNICORN IS NEARLY UNTIP-ABLE WITH A GREATER STORAGE CAPACITY.  THE PEUGOT’S GRINDER MECHANISMS ARE NOW MADE IN CHINA.  UNICORN HAS EMPLOYED THE SAME ITALIAN-MADE TRES SPADE GRINDERS SINCE 1986 WHEN THEIR PEPPER MILLS FIRT TIP-TOED INTO THE MARKET.  TRES SPADE HAS BEEN MANUFACTURING QUALITY METAL PRODUCTS SINCE 1864.

THE UNICORN MAGNUM IS A BREEZE TO FILL.  LAY IT ON ITS SIDE AND TWIST TO OPEN THE AMPLE HOPPER FOR THE PEPPERCORNS.  THE GRIND ADJUSTS EASILY AND ACCURATELY.   I CALLED THE FACTORY DIRECTLY TO SPECIAL ORDER A SECOND MILL FOR WHITE PEPPER, WHICH CAME WITH A DISCREET WHITE BAND SO I CAN TELL THEM APART.

PEPPERMILL2-1-300x225.jpeg

THE UNICORN IS ALISON ROMAN’S MILL OF CHOICE AS WELL AS JOSEF CENTENO’S.  IF ITS’ GOOD ENOUGH FOR THEM, IT SHOULD BE GOOD ENOUGH FOR YOU!

http://www.unicornmills.org

McCALL'S REDUX

IN JANUARY OF 2010 KAREN AND NATHAN McCALL OPENED THEIR NAMESAKE BESPOKE BUTCHER SHOP ON HILLHURST.  THE COUPLE HAD CHEFED AT SONA, DAVID MYER’S MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANT ON LaCIENEGA, WHICH CLOSED IN MAY THE SAME YEAR.

CHEF JOHN SPEAKS

Version 2

LONDON, PARIS AND AMSTERDAM 2023

IN 1982, WE WENT TO FLORENCE AND PARIS.  FOR OUR TWO-WEEK STAY IN PARIS WE’D RESERVED LUNCHES AND DINNERS AT, AMONG OTHERS, TAILLEVENT AND L’ARCHESTRATE, THEN THE ONLY TWO RESTAURANTS IN PARIS WITH THE HIGHEST RATING IN BOTH THE MICHELIN AND GAULT-MILAU.  WE ATE TWO MEALS A DAY.  THIS WAS PRE-TASTING MENUS, SO A TYPICAL MEAL INCLUDED AN ENTRÉE, A MAIN COURSE, CHEESE AND/OR DESSERT.  WITH WINE.  WHEN WE RETURNED TO L.A., MY FRIEND SANDY TOOK ONE LOOK AT ME AND SAID, “WHAT HAPPENED TO YOUR NECK?”  I’D GAINED 17 POUNDS IN THREE WEEKS.

WITH SIMILAR AMBITIONS FOR OUR RECENT TRIP TO LONDON, PARIS AND AMSTERDAM, I RESEARCHED AND RESERVED TABLES IN PARIS AND AMSTERDAM.  BUT SADLY (OR MAYBE NOT) I FOUND MYSELF CANCELLING RESERVATIONS IN BOTH CITIES.  I’M NOT THE SWINE I USED TO BE.  WHICH IS NOT TO SAY, WE DIDN’T HAVE WONDERFUL MEALS.  JUST NOT QUITE SO MANY.

IN PREVIOUS YEARS, BEFORE IPHONES AND E-MAILS AND TEXTS, I’D METICULOUSLY RECORDED, COURSE BY COURSE, EVERY BITE IN HAND-WRITTEN DIARIES; DIARIES I STILL HAVE AND CHERISH.  BUT I’VE GROWN THINNER AND LAZIER, SO INSTEAD OF SUBJECTING YOU, DEAR READER, TO A COMPREHENSIVELY TEDIOUS ACCOUNT OF OUR GUSTATORY ODYSSEY, I’LL LIMIT MYSELF TO THE HIGHTLIGHTS; PARTICULAR DISHES IN THE RESTAURANTS WE PARTICULARLY LIKED.

 

FRENCH FOOD HAs CHANGED A LOT IN 40 YEARS. AND NOT AT ALL.  BY 1982 HAUTE CUISINE HAD ALREADY SHED THE EXCESSES OF CARÊME AND ESCOFFIER FOR FERNAND POINT, WHOSE COOKING AT LA PYRAMIDE IN VIENNE RELIED ON THE BEST OF SEASONAL INGREDIENTS.  POINT AND HIS ACCOLYTES ALEXANDRE DUMAINE, ALAIN CHAPEL, THE TROISGROS BROTHERS, AND PAUL BOCUSE SOUGHT TO MAKE THE BETTER OF THE BEST, ENHANCING PERFECT PRODUCE AND PROTEIN WITH REDUCTIONS INSTEAD OF FLOUR-BASED SAUCES AND SUPERFLUOUS EMBELLISHMENTS. 

THE NEXT GENERATION, INCLUDING MICHEL GUÉRARD, FRÉDY GIRADET, JOEL ROBUCHON, AND ALAIN PASSARD ALL TRACE THEIR LINEAGE TO POINT

ANTOINE CAREMEid=”attachment_3212″ align=”alignright” width=”205″] 

FERNAND POINT, LA PYRAMIDE

 

.BUT THEN, FOR THE FIRST TIME IN ITS HISTORY, MICHELIN BEGAN SHOWERING STARS ON THE UPSTARTS IN SPAIN, JUAN MARI ARZAK AND FERRAN ADRIA, THE CHEF/SCIENTISTS WHO INVENTED MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY. SOUS VIDE AND PACOJETS, FOAMS AND GELS AND POWDERS INVADED FRENCH KITCHENS, TURNING RECIPES INTO A FORM OF ALCHEMY.  

OPEN KITCHEN AT ZE
KITCHEN AT ZE KITCHEN GALLERIE

THEN CAME JAPAN.   JAPANESE CHEFS WHO LOVED FRENCH FOOD FLOCKED TO PARIS TO LEARN FRENCH COOKING.  AFTER A SUITABLE APPRENTICESHIP IN FRENCH KITCHENS, SOME OPENED RESTAURANTS OF THEIR OWN.  AND FRENCH CHEFS, WHO ADMIRED THE ZEN PURITY AND SIMPLICITY OF JAPANESE CUISINE, BEGAN TO INCORPORATE THAT SENSIBILITY INTO THEIR OWN DISHES. 

COD AT ZE KITCHEN GALLERIE

ONE OF OUR BEST DINNERS THIS TRIP WAS AT ZE KITCHEN GALLERIE.  SINCE OUR FIRST MEAL THERE SOME 20 YEARS AGO, WILLIAM LADEUIL, WHO SPENT A STRETCH IN TOKYO, HAD EARNED A MICHELIN STAR AND A 16.5 RATING IN GAULT-MILAU.  HE HAS GRADUATED FROM NIGIRI WITH RAW BEEF IN PLACE OF TORO TO A COMPLEX AND SEDUCTIVE TASTING MENU WITH INFLUENCES FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA AND MOROCCO AS WELL AS JAPAN. THIS FUSION BRANCH OF FRENCH COOKING IS MANIFEST IN RESTAURANTS SUCH AS THE MUCH-LAUDED CHATEAUBRIAND.

GOUGÈRES AT CHATEAUBRIAND
WITH “CEVICHE” JUICE

ALTHOUGH UNDERWHELMED BY A SUCCESSION OF ONE-BITE DISHES SUCH AS GOUGÉRES WITH A GLASS OF CEVICHE JUICE AND CARROT “SPAGHETTI”, A PERFECTLY-COOKED PIECE OF DORADE FOLLOWED BY A LUSCIOUS SLICE OF SPRING LAMB PROVED REDEMPTIVE.  

I ADMIT, HOWEVER, THAT I’VE GROWN WEARY OF TASTING MENUS.  THE CHEF WHO CAN PULL OFF AN ORCHESTRATED PARADE OF ONE-BITE GEMS IS RARE INDEED.  MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, FOR EVERY GEM, THERE’S A FAILED ATTEMPT AT CREATING A TASTE COMBINATION THAT IS SIMPLY UNIQUE.  I RECALL WITH A SHUDDER, A SUCCESSION OF BEIGE AND GREY DISHES AT A RESTAURANT IN HELSINKI, THE NAME OF WHICH WILL FOREVER SLIP MY MIND.  BEFORE THE ADVENT OF CHEF’S TASTING MENUS, WE USED TO CONSTRUCT OUR OWN SIMPLY BY ORDERING SEVERAL HALF PORTIONS, SHARING DISHES OR JUST ORDERING APPETIZERS, WHICH TEND TO BE THE BEST CHOICES ON THE MENU ANYWAY.    

CONCURRENT WITH FUSION AND TASTING MENUS, ANOTHER GROUP OF YOUNG CHEFS, HIGHLY-TRAINED AND HIGHLY-SKILLED, WHO’D CUT THEIR TEETH IN 3-STARS, JUMPED OFF THE MICHELIN TRAIN, OPTING INSTEAD TO OPEN BISTROS IN LESS-PRICEY ARRONDISEMENTS WHERE THEY SERVED UP THEIR INTERPRETATIONS OF REGIONAL SPECIALTIES.  WE DIDN’T EVEN TRY TO GET INTO CHEZ L’AMI JEAN (OH, FOR JEAN’S RICE PUDDING!), WHICH HAS BECOME WILDLY POPULAR SINCE OUR LAST VISIT.  BUT ON THE RECOMMENDATION OF MY NEPHEW NICK, WHO LIVES IN PARIS, WE HAD OUR FIRST PARISIAN DINNER AT LORETTE, A 32-SEAT BISTRO IN THE ONCE-UNFASHIONABLE 10TH LORETTE

YOUNG STAFF, YOUNG CROWD, AND YOUNG CHEF MAKING CLASSIC DISHES SUCH AS ONION SOUP, MARROW BONE, SEA BASS, AND A PEAR TART.  LORETTE IS JOLLY AND COZY WITH WARM SERVICE AND EXCELLENT FOOD.  WE BOOKENDED OUR PARIS WEEK AT THE VENERABLE CHEZ ANDRÉ (“1936 CUISINE BOURGEOIS”) WITH ITS RED LEATHER BANQUETTES, BRASS FIXTURES AND REDSHADED CHANDELIERS, A MAN SHUCKING OYSTERS OUTSIDE, AND INSIDE, CLASSIC FOIE GRAS AND PERFECT SOLE MEUNIERE.

PERFECT SOLE MEUNIERE AT CHEZ ANDRE

WE’D LANDED FIRST IN LONDON, WHERE LYNN’S DAUGHTER ALBYN LIVES IN KENTISH TOWN WITH HER PARTNER BILL, THEIR 11-YEAR-OLD GEORGIA AND TWO CATS.  MY SISTER ANN AND HER HUSBAND STEVE ARE ALSO EX-PATS; THEIR HOUSE IN ST. JOHN’S WOOD NOT FAR FROM ALBYN’S DUPLEX IN KENTISH TOWN.

THE BULL AND LAST

SO ANOTHER BIG CHANGE SINCE 1982 IS THERE IS PLENTY OF GOOD EATING IN LONDON.  ONLY THE BRITISH COULD INVENT THE WORD “GASTROPUB”, WHICH SOUNDS MORE LIKE AN INTERNAL ORGAN THAN A RESTAURANT, BUT ONE OF OUR BEST MEALS THE WHOLE TRIP WAS AT THE BULL AND LAST (LET’S CALL IT A BISTROPUB, OKAY?), A SHORT WALK FROM ALBYN’S FLAT.  ONE OF THE MANAGERS EXPLAINED THAT THE NAME REFERS TO THE LAST BULL TO LEAVE THE PASTURE AS WINTER SETS IN.  OKAY…  OUR VERY PRETTY, BLONDE SERVER WAS FROM SAN FRANCISCO AND THE MENU, AN ECCLECTIC MIX OF FRENCH, ITALIAN AND CALIFORNIA CUISINE:  RADICCHIO SALAD WITH RAW ARTICHOKES, HAZELNUTS AND BLOOD ORANGE; BEEF CARPACCIO WITH WALNUT PESTO; BURRATA WITH GRILLED ASPARAGUS AND PEA SHOOTS.  MY SMOKED FISH BOARD HAD ENOUGH SMOKED MACKERAL PÂTÉ, HOUSE-CURED GRAVLAX, BROWN CRAB, AND HADDOCK CROQUETTE TO FEED A SMALL ARMY, SO I REDUCED MY PAPPARDELLE WITH LAMB RAGU TO A HALF PORTION, ALTHOUGH MY FORMER SELF WOULD HAVE EAGERLY EATEN MORE.  LYNN AND ALBYN’S ROAST SEABASS WITH ZUCCHINI AND TOMATO BROTH WAS MOIST AND FLAVORFUL.  AS FULL AS WE WERE, WE MANAGED TO INHALE THE STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING.

 WE MET MY NIECE MADDIE AT NOBLE ROT (THEY DO HAVE A GIFT FOR OFF-PUTTING NAMES), A WINE BAR IN SOHO WITH IMAGINATIVE FRENCH-INFLECTED DISHES AND AN INTRIGUING BOTTLE OF TOKAJI FURMINT FROM HUNGARY.  

BAR/TEA ROOM AT THE ZETTER
OUR ROOM AT THE ZETTER

ON A WALK NEAR OUR WONDERFULLY ECCENTRIC  ZETTER TOWNHOUSE HOTEL IN MARLEYBONE, I DISCOVERED A PAIR OF SPANISH RESTAURANTS ON OPPOSITE SIDES OF SEYMOUR PLACE.  AT LURRA, THE MORE SERIOUS OF THE TWO, MOST EVERYTHING IS GRILLED OVER WOOD.  NEVER HAVE I EATEN A BETTER OCTOPUS TENTACLE, DRAPED BESIDE A PILLOW OF FIRE-ROASTED PEPPERS.  DONOSTIA, LURRA’S SISTER RESTAURANT, SPECIALIZES IN TAPAS, SERIOUS TAPAS SUCH AS GRILLED ARTICHOKES, SUCCULENT LAMB CHOPS, ZAPOA (JUICY  MONKFISH) WITH BLACK RICE, SEVERAL ITERATIONS OF SPAIN’S CELEBRATED IBERICO PORK (CURED LIKE PROSCUITTO, ROASTED LOIN, BRAISED SHOULDER), AND IRRESISTABLY CRUNCHY ROASTED POTATOES.

DONOSTIA IN MARLEYBONE

EVERYONE IN PARIS WAS FURIOUS WITH MACRON WHO, INVOKING AN ESOTERIC BUT PERFECTL-LEGAL STATUTE, HAD RAISED THE RETIREMENT AGE FROM 62 TO 64.  SACRE BLEU!  GARBAGE BAGS WERE PILED HIGH BUT DISCREETLY AND THE CAB DRIVERS USED THEIR APPS TO AVOID THE DAILY PROTESTS.  BUT I CAN’T SAY IT IMPACTED OUR VISIT.  THERE WAS STILL A LINE AT THE MUSÉE D’ORSAY, WHERE WE LUCKED INTO THE FIRST DAY OF A TERRIFIC SHOW, MANET AND DEGAS. 

CE N’EST PAS UN MANET

THE PINAULT COLLECTION, WORTH A VISIT IF FOR NO OTHER REASON THAN TO SEE WHAT WAS ONCE THE BOURSE (STOCK MARKET).  DEAD TREES ROSE TWO STORIES IN THE ATRIUM.  A FILM IN THE MUSEUM’S THEATER WAS SHOWING AMAZONIAN FISHERMEN NETTING AND HUGGING FISH – TO DEATH.  NEVER HAS SO MUCH ART REQUIRED SO MUCH READING! 

MURALS AT THE BOURSE  PINAULT AT THE BOURSE (FILM CLIP BELOW)

IMG_0607

MUCH MORE SATISFYING WAS A SMALL EXHIBITION AT THE MUSÉE DU LUXEMBOURG, THE ADJACENT GARDENS BURSTING INTO BLOOM. 

JARDINS DU LUXEMBOURG
JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG

LEON MONET, CLAUDE’S BROTHER, WAS A SUCCESSFUL FABRIC MANUFACTURER IN ROUEN, AND AN AVID COLLECTOR OF THE EARLY IMPRESSIONISTS.  

LEON MONET MUSÉE DU LUXEMBOURG
LEON MONET

AFTER LONDON AND PARIS, AMSTERDAM WAS LIKE GOING FROM TIME’S SQUARE TO THE WEST VILLAGE.  I UNDERSTAND WHY PEOPLE MOVE HERE.  OKAY, EVERYONE IS TALLER THAN YOU (LYNN REQUIRED A STEP STOOL TO GET IN AND OUT OF BED.). BUT THEY ALL SPEAK ENGLISH.  HALF THE WINDOW DRESSINGS ARE IN ENGLISH.  IF YOU DON’T GET RUN OVER BY A BICYCLE, NOTHING IS MORE ENCHANTING THAN STROLLING ALONG THE HERENGRACHT OR PRINSENGRACHT OR PRACTICALLY ANY GRACHT; EACH CANAL LINED WITH HOUSES WHICH HAVEN’T CHANGED SINCE THE 17TH CENTURY. 

BOATS PACKED WITH TOURISTS CRUISE BY.  SWANS NEST AT THE WATERLINE NEAR DOCKED HOUSEBOATS.  THE DRAWBRIDGES ARE RIGHT OUT OF VAN GOGH.  AND, OF COURSE, THERE ARE THE VAN GOGHS THEMSELVES, WHICH WE SKIPPED THIS TRIP IN FAVOR OF 28 VERMEERS AT THE RIKJSMUSEUM, THE LARGEST NUMBER EVER EXHIBITED.  ONLY A FEW PER ROOM. 

THE GEOGRAPHER
THE BLIND EXPERIENCE VERMEER BY TOUCH AND SOUND

LUMINOUS LITTLE WINDOWS INTO THE PRIVATE MOMENTS OF ORDINARY PEOPLE.  BUT I DIGRESS…  

VINKELE IN THE HOTEL DYLAN
VINKELES

VINKELES, WITH ONE MICHELIN STAR BUT DESERVING OF TWO, IS SITUATED IN THE FORMER POORHOUSE OF AN ADJACENT CHURCH; NOW THE NOT-SO-POORHOUSE HOTEL DYLAN.  THE STUNNING AND DRAMATIC DINING SPACE IS ONE LONG ROOM, ONCE THE CHURCH BAKERY. A WALL OF DECOMMISIONED BRICK OVENS RISES TWENTY FEET FROM THE BRICK FLOOR TO A TIMBERED CEILING.  THE AMPLY-SPACED TABLES ARE DRAPED IN WHITE LINEN.  SERVICE IS BRISK, IMPECCABLE AND FRIENDLY.  I STARTED WITH TWO SMALL SLABS OF HAMACHI CRUDO, FRESH AS THE SEA, DRIZZLED WITH OLIVE OIL AND A PINCH OF PINK SALT.  SQUAB CAME ROASTED AS RARE AS PRIME RIB; THE SKIN, MAHOGANY, NAPPED IN A SQUAB REDUCTION.  LYNN CHOSE THE VEGETABLE MENU – FIVE COURSES INCLUDING DESSERT.  BRAISED ONIONS WITH SOY SAUCE AND GRUYÈRE; A CARROT WITH TARRAGON AND CARAMELIZED CREAM; ARTICHOKE WITH CRISPY POTATOES; OYSTER MUSHROOMS WITH CHESTNUTS AND WILD GARLIC, AND A DESSERT OF CHOCOLATE, CARAMEL, JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, HAZELNUTS, ORANGE AND GOAT’S MILK.  OUR WAITER WAS MOST ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT A BOTTLE OF ELBLING FROM RACINES REBELLES, A WOMAN WINEMAKER IN LUXEMBOURG’S MOSEL.  ELBLING IS RIESLING’S COUSIN, BUT THIS WINE WAS LIGHTER-BODIED WITH FLOWERY NOTES AND A VELVETY FINISH. 

LYNN CONTEMPLATES HER CARROT AT VINKELES
LYNN CONTEMPLATES HER CARROT COURSE

THE FOLLOWING NIGHT WE MET OUR FRIENDS EVA AND PETER VAN DUINEN AND LYNN’S CLIENT NINA SIEGAL, (“THE ANATOMY LESSON” AND THE FORTHCOMING “THE DIARY KEEPERS”) AND THE NEW YORK TIMES’ CULTURAL CORRESPONDENT FOR HOLLAND AT SINCK, A WINE BAR TWO CANALS AWAY FROM OUR HOTEL.

LYNN, EVA AND PETER AT SINCK

(ONE NICE THING ABOUT AMSTERDAM WAS THAT EVERY RESTAURANT WAS A FEW CANALS AWAY FROM OUR HOTEL.  WE ONLY TOOK PUBLIC TRANSPORATION TO VISIT MAURITSHUIS COLLECTION IN THE HAGUE AND TO GET TO THE TRAIN STATION.).  SINCK WAS ARGUABLY OUR BEST MEAL OF THE TRIP.  THE MENU WAS DECEPTIVELY UNPRETENTIOUS – SWEETBREADS, FOIE GRAS, MONKFISH, SKATEWING.  BUT THE SWEETBREADS, WHICH HAD A TENDER CRUNCH CAME SWIMMING IN AN INTENSE VEAL REDUCTION LACED WITH, I THINK, PORT.  THE FRIED SKATE WING FLOATED IN A BUERRE ROSE, PINKISH FROM A KISS OF TOMATO.  AND SINCK LIVED UP TO ITS NAME AS A WINE BAR.  WE DOWNED TWO BOTTLES:  A JOSEF BOXLER ALSATIAN RIESLING AND A LIGHT AND LOVELY SYLVANNER.  

CROQUETTES AT THE HERMITAGE MUSUEM IN AMSTERDAM

WE TRAVEL FOR TWO REASONS:  TO EAT AND LOOK AT ART.  SO IT WAS A REVELATION TO FIND THAT THE FOOD IN THE DUTCH MUSEUM CAFETERIAS – THE RIJKSMUSEUM, THE MAURITSUIS, AND THE HERMITAGE – WAS CONSISTENTLY FRESH, DELICIOUS AND CAPACIOUS.  WE ALWAYS OVER-ORDERED.  MAIN COURSE SALADS, SANDWICHES ON GOOD BROWN BREAD AND EXCELLENT TOMATO SOUP.

BACK IN LONDON FOR A DAY BEFORE OUR FLIGHT TO L.A., WE SPENT MOST OF OUR TIME WITH ALBYN, HER FRIENDS AND OUR DELIGHTFUL GRANDAUGHTER GEORGIA, WITH ONE TERRIFIC DINNER AT THE AFOREMENTIONED DONOSTIA

 

REFLECTING ON OUR TRIP, WHAT’S HAPPENED TO FOOD IN THE COUNTRIES WE VISITED ISN’T VERY DIFFERENT FROM HOW FOOD HAS EVOLVED IN L.A. AND PROBABLY MOST BIG CITIES AROUND THE WORLD.  CUISINE IS NOW INTERNATIONAL.  JONATHAN GOLD PRAISED JOSEF CENTENO’S DISHES AT HIS ORSA & WINSTON BECAUSE, HE WROTE, THEY REFLECT THE CULTURAL DIVERSITY OF THE CITY ITSELF.  CENTENO EFFORTLESSLY COMBINES FLAVORS, INGREDIENTS AND TECHNIQUES FROM MEXICO, JAPAN, NORTH AFRICA, AND ITALY.  THE CHEF DU CUISINE AT LURRA IS JAPANESE BUT TOLD ME HE LOVES BASQUE FOOD.  CERTAINLY, REGIONAL COOKING PERSISTS AND HAPPILY SO.  YOU CAN GO TO TEN RESTAURANTS IN ROME AND THOUGH THE PRICES MAY VARY, THE MENUS ARE THE SAME.  THE SAN GABRIEL VALLEY IN LOS ANGELES IS SIXTY MILES OF ASIAN FOOD, WHERE RESTAURANTS CATER TO IMMIGRANTS FROM SPECIFIC REGIONS SUCH AS CANTON, HUNAN, SZECHUAN, AND JIANGSU.  YOU CAN FIND RESTAURANTS ALL OVER THIS CITY WHICH SPECIALIZE IN OAXACAN MOLES, KOREAN BARBECUE, SYRIAN SHAWARMA, BOLOGNESE PASTA, OR OSAKA-STYLE SUSHI. BUT INCREASINGLY, THE MORE SOPHISTICATED CHEFS ARE DRAWING THEIR INSPIRATION FROM AN GLOBAL PALATE.  AND WHO ARE THE BENEFICIARIES OF THEIR ONGOING EXPERIMENTS?  WE ARE.

A FINAL NOTE:  WE ATE IN FIFTEEN RESTAURANTS IN THREE CITIES.  THEY WEREN’T ALL QUIET, BUT INSTEAD OF DEFEANING MUSIC WAS THE CLATTER OF DISHES, THE CLINK OF GLASSES, OF VOICES AND LAUGHTER.  PLENTY OF PHONES WERE IN EVIDENCE, FACE DOWN ON THE TABLES.  NO ONE WAS LOOKING AT THEIR PHONES.  THEY WERE LAUGHING, FLIRTING, DRINKING, ENJOYING THE FOOD.  AND TALKING.  NOT SHOUTING TO BE HEARD OVER THE MUSIC.  TALKING.  SPREAD THE WORD.   

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