SHRIMP WITH CELERY
SHRIMP WITH CELERY

CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE.  PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, IT ADDS A GREEN NOTE TO SOUPS AND STEWS. IT’S INDISPENSABLE IN CHICKEN OR EGG SALAD.  A SUPPORTING PLAYER, CELERY IS RARELY FEATURED ON ITS OWN, AT LEAST IN THE WEST.  THE CHINESE KNOW BETTER AND SOME OF THE BEST SHRIMP DISHES I’VE HAD, SUCH AS JADE SHRIMP, ARE SIMPLY SHRIMP WITH CELERY AND GREEN HERBS.  HERE I’VE ADDED LEMON ZEST AND SCALLIONS.  STILL, IT COULDN’T BE EASIER TO MAKE AND ONCE YOU’VE DONE YOUR PREP AND MIS-EN-PLACE, THE TOTAL COOKING TIME IS ABOUT THREE MINUTES.  IT’S WHAT GIVES THIS DISH ITS BRIGHT AND LIVELY FLAVOR.
Click here to download recipe

VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON

I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.   (more…)

MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD
MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS LAST WEEK, BUT FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT. LAST WEEK’S GUESTS WERE SO PLEASED WITH THE SALAD, HOWEVER, THAT I MADE IT AGAIN LAST NIGHT WITH SOME MINOR FINE-TUNING AND A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF MELONS. THE PLEASURE OF THIS SALAD COMES, OF COURSE, FROM THE MELONS. THANKS TO GLOBAL WARMING MELONS ARE STILL IN SEASON AND WEISER FARMS HAS FEATURED A VERITABLE MELON CORNUCOPIA: CANTALOUPE, CANARY, GALIA, CHARENTAIS, AND WATER MELON. THE MELONS ARE SO SWEET THAT THEY CRY OUT FOR LIME JUICE. THE PROSCUITTO OR SERRANO IS BOTH SALTY AND SWEET. THIS IS AFTER ALL DECONSTRUCTED OR PERHAPS I SHOULD SAY RECONSTRUCTED PROSCUITTO AND MELON, BUT MUCH MORE FUN TO EAT.

Click here to download recipe

CHINESE SPARE RIBS
CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE. (more…)

BORSHT
BORSHT

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS À LA CRÊME
MORELS À LA CRÊME

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA
LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

BOUILLABAISSE PASTA
BOUILLABAISSE PASTA

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES
SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI
CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH CELERY
SHRIMP WITH CELERY

CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE.  PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, IT ADDS A GREEN NOTE TO SOUPS AND STEWS. IT’S INDISPENSABLE IN CHICKEN OR EGG SALAD.  A SUPPORTING PLAYER, CELERY IS RARELY FEATURED ON ITS OWN, AT LEAST IN THE WEST.  THE CHINESE KNOW BETTER AND SOME OF THE BEST SHRIMP DISHES I’VE HAD, SUCH AS JADE SHRIMP, ARE SIMPLY SHRIMP WITH CELERY AND GREEN HERBS.  HERE I’VE ADDED LEMON ZEST AND SCALLIONS.  STILL, IT COULDN’T BE EASIER TO MAKE AND ONCE YOU’VE DONE YOUR PREP AND MIS-EN-PLACE, THE TOTAL COOKING TIME IS ABOUT THREE MINUTES.  IT’S WHAT GIVES THIS DISH ITS BRIGHT AND LIVELY FLAVOR.
Click here to download recipe

VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON

I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.   (more…)

MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD
MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS LAST WEEK, BUT FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT. LAST WEEK’S GUESTS WERE SO PLEASED WITH THE SALAD, HOWEVER, THAT I MADE IT AGAIN LAST NIGHT WITH SOME MINOR FINE-TUNING AND A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF MELONS. THE PLEASURE OF THIS SALAD COMES, OF COURSE, FROM THE MELONS. THANKS TO GLOBAL WARMING MELONS ARE STILL IN SEASON AND WEISER FARMS HAS FEATURED A VERITABLE MELON CORNUCOPIA: CANTALOUPE, CANARY, GALIA, CHARENTAIS, AND WATER MELON. THE MELONS ARE SO SWEET THAT THEY CRY OUT FOR LIME JUICE. THE PROSCUITTO OR SERRANO IS BOTH SALTY AND SWEET. THIS IS AFTER ALL DECONSTRUCTED OR PERHAPS I SHOULD SAY RECONSTRUCTED PROSCUITTO AND MELON, BUT MUCH MORE FUN TO EAT.

Click here to download recipe

CHINESE SPARE RIBS
CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE. (more…)

BORSHT
BORSHT

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS À LA CRÊME
MORELS À LA CRÊME

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA
LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

BOUILLABAISSE PASTA
BOUILLABAISSE PASTA

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES
SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI
CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH CELERY
SHRIMP WITH CELERY

CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE.  PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, IT ADDS A GREEN NOTE TO SOUPS AND STEWS. IT’S INDISPENSABLE IN CHICKEN OR EGG SALAD.  A SUPPORTING PLAYER, CELERY IS RARELY FEATURED ON ITS OWN, AT LEAST IN THE WEST.  THE CHINESE KNOW BETTER AND SOME OF THE BEST SHRIMP DISHES I’VE HAD, SUCH AS JADE SHRIMP, ARE SIMPLY SHRIMP WITH CELERY AND GREEN HERBS.  HERE I’VE ADDED LEMON ZEST AND SCALLIONS.  STILL, IT COULDN’T BE EASIER TO MAKE AND ONCE YOU’VE DONE YOUR PREP AND MIS-EN-PLACE, THE TOTAL COOKING TIME IS ABOUT THREE MINUTES.  IT’S WHAT GIVES THIS DISH ITS BRIGHT AND LIVELY FLAVOR.
Click here to download recipe

VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON

I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.   (more…)

MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD
MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS LAST WEEK, BUT FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT. LAST WEEK’S GUESTS WERE SO PLEASED WITH THE SALAD, HOWEVER, THAT I MADE IT AGAIN LAST NIGHT WITH SOME MINOR FINE-TUNING AND A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF MELONS. THE PLEASURE OF THIS SALAD COMES, OF COURSE, FROM THE MELONS. THANKS TO GLOBAL WARMING MELONS ARE STILL IN SEASON AND WEISER FARMS HAS FEATURED A VERITABLE MELON CORNUCOPIA: CANTALOUPE, CANARY, GALIA, CHARENTAIS, AND WATER MELON. THE MELONS ARE SO SWEET THAT THEY CRY OUT FOR LIME JUICE. THE PROSCUITTO OR SERRANO IS BOTH SALTY AND SWEET. THIS IS AFTER ALL DECONSTRUCTED OR PERHAPS I SHOULD SAY RECONSTRUCTED PROSCUITTO AND MELON, BUT MUCH MORE FUN TO EAT.

Click here to download recipe

CHINESE SPARE RIBS
CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE. (more…)

BORSHT
BORSHT

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS À LA CRÊME
MORELS À LA CRÊME

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA
LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

BOUILLABAISSE PASTA
BOUILLABAISSE PASTA

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES
SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI
CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH CELERY
SHRIMP WITH CELERY

CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE.  PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, IT ADDS A GREEN NOTE TO SOUPS AND STEWS. IT’S INDISPENSABLE IN CHICKEN OR EGG SALAD.  A SUPPORTING PLAYER, CELERY IS RARELY FEATURED ON ITS OWN, AT LEAST IN THE WEST.  THE CHINESE KNOW BETTER AND SOME OF THE BEST SHRIMP DISHES I’VE HAD, SUCH AS JADE SHRIMP, ARE SIMPLY SHRIMP WITH CELERY AND GREEN HERBS.  HERE I’VE ADDED LEMON ZEST AND SCALLIONS.  STILL, IT COULDN’T BE EASIER TO MAKE AND ONCE YOU’VE DONE YOUR PREP AND MIS-EN-PLACE, THE TOTAL COOKING TIME IS ABOUT THREE MINUTES.  IT’S WHAT GIVES THIS DISH ITS BRIGHT AND LIVELY FLAVOR.
Click here to download recipe

VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON

I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.   (more…)

MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD
MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS LAST WEEK, BUT FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT. LAST WEEK’S GUESTS WERE SO PLEASED WITH THE SALAD, HOWEVER, THAT I MADE IT AGAIN LAST NIGHT WITH SOME MINOR FINE-TUNING AND A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF MELONS. THE PLEASURE OF THIS SALAD COMES, OF COURSE, FROM THE MELONS. THANKS TO GLOBAL WARMING MELONS ARE STILL IN SEASON AND WEISER FARMS HAS FEATURED A VERITABLE MELON CORNUCOPIA: CANTALOUPE, CANARY, GALIA, CHARENTAIS, AND WATER MELON. THE MELONS ARE SO SWEET THAT THEY CRY OUT FOR LIME JUICE. THE PROSCUITTO OR SERRANO IS BOTH SALTY AND SWEET. THIS IS AFTER ALL DECONSTRUCTED OR PERHAPS I SHOULD SAY RECONSTRUCTED PROSCUITTO AND MELON, BUT MUCH MORE FUN TO EAT.

Click here to download recipe

CHINESE SPARE RIBS
CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE. (more…)

BORSHT
BORSHT

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS À LA CRÊME
MORELS À LA CRÊME

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA
LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

BOUILLABAISSE PASTA
BOUILLABAISSE PASTA

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES
SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI
CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH CELERY
SHRIMP WITH CELERY

CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE.  PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, IT ADDS A GREEN NOTE TO SOUPS AND STEWS. IT’S INDISPENSABLE IN CHICKEN OR EGG SALAD.  A SUPPORTING PLAYER, CELERY IS RARELY FEATURED ON ITS OWN, AT LEAST IN THE WEST.  THE CHINESE KNOW BETTER AND SOME OF THE BEST SHRIMP DISHES I’VE HAD, SUCH AS JADE SHRIMP, ARE SIMPLY SHRIMP WITH CELERY AND GREEN HERBS.  HERE I’VE ADDED LEMON ZEST AND SCALLIONS.  STILL, IT COULDN’T BE EASIER TO MAKE AND ONCE YOU’VE DONE YOUR PREP AND MIS-EN-PLACE, THE TOTAL COOKING TIME IS ABOUT THREE MINUTES.  IT’S WHAT GIVES THIS DISH ITS BRIGHT AND LIVELY FLAVOR.
Click here to download recipe

VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON

I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.   (more…)

MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD
MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS LAST WEEK, BUT FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT. LAST WEEK’S GUESTS WERE SO PLEASED WITH THE SALAD, HOWEVER, THAT I MADE IT AGAIN LAST NIGHT WITH SOME MINOR FINE-TUNING AND A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF MELONS. THE PLEASURE OF THIS SALAD COMES, OF COURSE, FROM THE MELONS. THANKS TO GLOBAL WARMING MELONS ARE STILL IN SEASON AND WEISER FARMS HAS FEATURED A VERITABLE MELON CORNUCOPIA: CANTALOUPE, CANARY, GALIA, CHARENTAIS, AND WATER MELON. THE MELONS ARE SO SWEET THAT THEY CRY OUT FOR LIME JUICE. THE PROSCUITTO OR SERRANO IS BOTH SALTY AND SWEET. THIS IS AFTER ALL DECONSTRUCTED OR PERHAPS I SHOULD SAY RECONSTRUCTED PROSCUITTO AND MELON, BUT MUCH MORE FUN TO EAT.

Click here to download recipe

CHINESE SPARE RIBS
CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE. (more…)

BORSHT
BORSHT

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS À LA CRÊME
MORELS À LA CRÊME

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA
LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

BOUILLABAISSE PASTA
BOUILLABAISSE PASTA

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES
SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI
CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH CELERY
SHRIMP WITH CELERY

CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE.  PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, IT ADDS A GREEN NOTE TO SOUPS AND STEWS. IT’S INDISPENSABLE IN CHICKEN OR EGG SALAD.  A SUPPORTING PLAYER, CELERY IS RARELY FEATURED ON ITS OWN, AT LEAST IN THE WEST.  THE CHINESE KNOW BETTER AND SOME OF THE BEST SHRIMP DISHES I’VE HAD, SUCH AS JADE SHRIMP, ARE SIMPLY SHRIMP WITH CELERY AND GREEN HERBS.  HERE I’VE ADDED LEMON ZEST AND SCALLIONS.  STILL, IT COULDN’T BE EASIER TO MAKE AND ONCE YOU’VE DONE YOUR PREP AND MIS-EN-PLACE, THE TOTAL COOKING TIME IS ABOUT THREE MINUTES.  IT’S WHAT GIVES THIS DISH ITS BRIGHT AND LIVELY FLAVOR.
Click here to download recipe

VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON

I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.   (more…)

MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD
MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS LAST WEEK, BUT FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT. LAST WEEK’S GUESTS WERE SO PLEASED WITH THE SALAD, HOWEVER, THAT I MADE IT AGAIN LAST NIGHT WITH SOME MINOR FINE-TUNING AND A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF MELONS. THE PLEASURE OF THIS SALAD COMES, OF COURSE, FROM THE MELONS. THANKS TO GLOBAL WARMING MELONS ARE STILL IN SEASON AND WEISER FARMS HAS FEATURED A VERITABLE MELON CORNUCOPIA: CANTALOUPE, CANARY, GALIA, CHARENTAIS, AND WATER MELON. THE MELONS ARE SO SWEET THAT THEY CRY OUT FOR LIME JUICE. THE PROSCUITTO OR SERRANO IS BOTH SALTY AND SWEET. THIS IS AFTER ALL DECONSTRUCTED OR PERHAPS I SHOULD SAY RECONSTRUCTED PROSCUITTO AND MELON, BUT MUCH MORE FUN TO EAT.

Click here to download recipe

CHINESE SPARE RIBS
CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE. (more…)

BORSHT
BORSHT

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS À LA CRÊME
MORELS À LA CRÊME

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA
LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

BOUILLABAISSE PASTA
BOUILLABAISSE PASTA

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES
SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI
CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH CELERY
SHRIMP WITH CELERY

CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE.  PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, IT ADDS A GREEN NOTE TO SOUPS AND STEWS. IT’S INDISPENSABLE IN CHICKEN OR EGG SALAD.  A SUPPORTING PLAYER, CELERY IS RARELY FEATURED ON ITS OWN, AT LEAST IN THE WEST.  THE CHINESE KNOW BETTER AND SOME OF THE BEST SHRIMP DISHES I’VE HAD, SUCH AS JADE SHRIMP, ARE SIMPLY SHRIMP WITH CELERY AND GREEN HERBS.  HERE I’VE ADDED LEMON ZEST AND SCALLIONS.  STILL, IT COULDN’T BE EASIER TO MAKE AND ONCE YOU’VE DONE YOUR PREP AND MIS-EN-PLACE, THE TOTAL COOKING TIME IS ABOUT THREE MINUTES.  IT’S WHAT GIVES THIS DISH ITS BRIGHT AND LIVELY FLAVOR.
Click here to download recipe

VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON

I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.   (more…)

MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD
MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS LAST WEEK, BUT FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT. LAST WEEK’S GUESTS WERE SO PLEASED WITH THE SALAD, HOWEVER, THAT I MADE IT AGAIN LAST NIGHT WITH SOME MINOR FINE-TUNING AND A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF MELONS. THE PLEASURE OF THIS SALAD COMES, OF COURSE, FROM THE MELONS. THANKS TO GLOBAL WARMING MELONS ARE STILL IN SEASON AND WEISER FARMS HAS FEATURED A VERITABLE MELON CORNUCOPIA: CANTALOUPE, CANARY, GALIA, CHARENTAIS, AND WATER MELON. THE MELONS ARE SO SWEET THAT THEY CRY OUT FOR LIME JUICE. THE PROSCUITTO OR SERRANO IS BOTH SALTY AND SWEET. THIS IS AFTER ALL DECONSTRUCTED OR PERHAPS I SHOULD SAY RECONSTRUCTED PROSCUITTO AND MELON, BUT MUCH MORE FUN TO EAT.

Click here to download recipe

CHINESE SPARE RIBS
CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE. (more…)

BORSHT
BORSHT

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS À LA CRÊME
MORELS À LA CRÊME

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA
LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

BOUILLABAISSE PASTA
BOUILLABAISSE PASTA

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES
SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI
CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH CELERY
SHRIMP WITH CELERY

CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE.  PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, IT ADDS A GREEN NOTE TO SOUPS AND STEWS. IT’S INDISPENSABLE IN CHICKEN OR EGG SALAD.  A SUPPORTING PLAYER, CELERY IS RARELY FEATURED ON ITS OWN, AT LEAST IN THE WEST.  THE CHINESE KNOW BETTER AND SOME OF THE BEST SHRIMP DISHES I’VE HAD, SUCH AS JADE SHRIMP, ARE SIMPLY SHRIMP WITH CELERY AND GREEN HERBS.  HERE I’VE ADDED LEMON ZEST AND SCALLIONS.  STILL, IT COULDN’T BE EASIER TO MAKE AND ONCE YOU’VE DONE YOUR PREP AND MIS-EN-PLACE, THE TOTAL COOKING TIME IS ABOUT THREE MINUTES.  IT’S WHAT GIVES THIS DISH ITS BRIGHT AND LIVELY FLAVOR.
Click here to download recipe

VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON

I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.   (more…)

MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD
MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS LAST WEEK, BUT FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT. LAST WEEK’S GUESTS WERE SO PLEASED WITH THE SALAD, HOWEVER, THAT I MADE IT AGAIN LAST NIGHT WITH SOME MINOR FINE-TUNING AND A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF MELONS. THE PLEASURE OF THIS SALAD COMES, OF COURSE, FROM THE MELONS. THANKS TO GLOBAL WARMING MELONS ARE STILL IN SEASON AND WEISER FARMS HAS FEATURED A VERITABLE MELON CORNUCOPIA: CANTALOUPE, CANARY, GALIA, CHARENTAIS, AND WATER MELON. THE MELONS ARE SO SWEET THAT THEY CRY OUT FOR LIME JUICE. THE PROSCUITTO OR SERRANO IS BOTH SALTY AND SWEET. THIS IS AFTER ALL DECONSTRUCTED OR PERHAPS I SHOULD SAY RECONSTRUCTED PROSCUITTO AND MELON, BUT MUCH MORE FUN TO EAT.

Click here to download recipe

CHINESE SPARE RIBS
CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE. (more…)

BORSHT
BORSHT

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS À LA CRÊME
MORELS À LA CRÊME

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA
LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

BOUILLABAISSE PASTA
BOUILLABAISSE PASTA

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES
SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI
CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH CELERY
SHRIMP WITH CELERY

CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE.  PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, IT ADDS A GREEN NOTE TO SOUPS AND STEWS. IT’S INDISPENSABLE IN CHICKEN OR EGG SALAD.  A SUPPORTING PLAYER, CELERY IS RARELY FEATURED ON ITS OWN, AT LEAST IN THE WEST.  THE CHINESE KNOW BETTER AND SOME OF THE BEST SHRIMP DISHES I’VE HAD, SUCH AS JADE SHRIMP, ARE SIMPLY SHRIMP WITH CELERY AND GREEN HERBS.  HERE I’VE ADDED LEMON ZEST AND SCALLIONS.  STILL, IT COULDN’T BE EASIER TO MAKE AND ONCE YOU’VE DONE YOUR PREP AND MIS-EN-PLACE, THE TOTAL COOKING TIME IS ABOUT THREE MINUTES.  IT’S WHAT GIVES THIS DISH ITS BRIGHT AND LIVELY FLAVOR.
Click here to download recipe

VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON

I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.   (more…)

MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD
MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS LAST WEEK, BUT FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT. LAST WEEK’S GUESTS WERE SO PLEASED WITH THE SALAD, HOWEVER, THAT I MADE IT AGAIN LAST NIGHT WITH SOME MINOR FINE-TUNING AND A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF MELONS. THE PLEASURE OF THIS SALAD COMES, OF COURSE, FROM THE MELONS. THANKS TO GLOBAL WARMING MELONS ARE STILL IN SEASON AND WEISER FARMS HAS FEATURED A VERITABLE MELON CORNUCOPIA: CANTALOUPE, CANARY, GALIA, CHARENTAIS, AND WATER MELON. THE MELONS ARE SO SWEET THAT THEY CRY OUT FOR LIME JUICE. THE PROSCUITTO OR SERRANO IS BOTH SALTY AND SWEET. THIS IS AFTER ALL DECONSTRUCTED OR PERHAPS I SHOULD SAY RECONSTRUCTED PROSCUITTO AND MELON, BUT MUCH MORE FUN TO EAT.

Click here to download recipe

CHINESE SPARE RIBS
CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE. (more…)

BORSHT
BORSHT

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS À LA CRÊME
MORELS À LA CRÊME

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA
LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

BOUILLABAISSE PASTA
BOUILLABAISSE PASTA

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES
SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI
CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH CELERY
SHRIMP WITH CELERY

CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE.  PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, IT ADDS A GREEN NOTE TO SOUPS AND STEWS. IT’S INDISPENSABLE IN CHICKEN OR EGG SALAD.  A SUPPORTING PLAYER, CELERY IS RARELY FEATURED ON ITS OWN, AT LEAST IN THE WEST.  THE CHINESE KNOW BETTER AND SOME OF THE BEST SHRIMP DISHES I’VE HAD, SUCH AS JADE SHRIMP, ARE SIMPLY SHRIMP WITH CELERY AND GREEN HERBS.  HERE I’VE ADDED LEMON ZEST AND SCALLIONS.  STILL, IT COULDN’T BE EASIER TO MAKE AND ONCE YOU’VE DONE YOUR PREP AND MIS-EN-PLACE, THE TOTAL COOKING TIME IS ABOUT THREE MINUTES.  IT’S WHAT GIVES THIS DISH ITS BRIGHT AND LIVELY FLAVOR.
Click here to download recipe

VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON

I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.   (more…)

MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD
MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

I WOULD HAVE POSTED THIS LAST WEEK, BUT FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT. LAST WEEK’S GUESTS WERE SO PLEASED WITH THE SALAD, HOWEVER, THAT I MADE IT AGAIN LAST NIGHT WITH SOME MINOR FINE-TUNING AND A DIFFERENT COMBINATION OF MELONS. THE PLEASURE OF THIS SALAD COMES, OF COURSE, FROM THE MELONS. THANKS TO GLOBAL WARMING MELONS ARE STILL IN SEASON AND WEISER FARMS HAS FEATURED A VERITABLE MELON CORNUCOPIA: CANTALOUPE, CANARY, GALIA, CHARENTAIS, AND WATER MELON. THE MELONS ARE SO SWEET THAT THEY CRY OUT FOR LIME JUICE. THE PROSCUITTO OR SERRANO IS BOTH SALTY AND SWEET. THIS IS AFTER ALL DECONSTRUCTED OR PERHAPS I SHOULD SAY RECONSTRUCTED PROSCUITTO AND MELON, BUT MUCH MORE FUN TO EAT.

Click here to download recipe

CHINESE SPARE RIBS
CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE. (more…)

BORSHT
BORSHT

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS À LA CRÊME
MORELS À LA CRÊME

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA
LITTLE GEMS WITH APRICOTS AND FETA

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

BOUILLABAISSE PASTA
BOUILLABAISSE PASTA

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES
SHRIMP WITH MUSHROOMS AND POTATOES

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI
CHICKEN WITH CIPOLLINI

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

This Week’s Meal

SHRIMP WITH CELERY

SHRIMP WITH CELERY

BROWSE BY TYPE

RECENT RECIPES

  • SHRIMP WITH CELERY SHRIMP WITH CELERY
  • VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
  • MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD MELON AND PROSCUITTO SALAD

SOUL FOOD IN THE YEAR OF TRUMP (2017)

THE ONLY SECTION OF THE PAPER WHICH IS NOT DEPRESSING TO READ THESE DAYS IS THE FOOD SECTION. I FIND MYSELF LINGERING OVER INTRIGUING RECIPES, FEATURE ARTICLES AND RESTAURANT REVIEWS.

EVEN BETTER IS TO SOOTHE ONE'S SOUL AT AN EXCITING NEW RESTAURANT OR BE PAMPERED IN A FAMILIAR ONE.

THE DINING SCENE IMPROVES EACH YEAR AND 2017 WAS NO EXCEPTION.

AS WE STUMBLE INTO 2018, LET US LOOK BACK FOR A MOMENT AND REFLECT:

EVERY COUPLE OF WEEKS I TREAT MYSELF TO SUSHI AT IKE IN HOLLYWOOD, WHERE RICK, THE NEW OWNER AND HEAD CHEF, SURPRISES ME WITH HIS OMAKASE DISHES SUCH AS VINEGARY BABY SQUID, SEARED UNI, CUT ROLL OF TORO AND PICKLED BURDOCK ROOT, WASHED DOWN WITH A SAPPORO DRAFT.

JOSEF CENTENO CONTINUES TO SURPRISE AND NEVER DISAPPOINT. THERE'S ALWAYS SOME DISCOVERY OR REFINEMENT OF A FAMILIAR DISH ON HIS MENUS AT BACO, BAR AMA, ORSA&WINSTON, AND P.Y.T. IN CULVER CITY, YOU CAN TREAT YOURSELF TO A BACO AT BACO SHOP OR MAKE THESE DISHES AT HOME BY INVESTING IN THE BACO COOKBOOK.

DESPITE OUR DISMAL TREATMENT A FEW YEARS BACK AT TROIS MEC, WE FINALLY SUCCUMBED TO THE LURE OF SUPERB BISTRO DISHES AT PETIT TROIS, RIGHT NEXT DOOR AND FAR MORE WELCOMING. GRAB A SEAT AT THE COUNTER SO YOU CAN WATCH THE CHEFS ASSEMBLE YOU ONION SOUP OR SIX EGG OMELETTE.
ACROSS THE STREET IS THE MOZZAPLEX, WHERE WE GO FOR LATE LUNCHES AND SPLIT THE INSALATA FORTE AND THE PIZZA BIANCO WASHED DOWN WITH A GLASS OF ETNA ROSSO.

THANKS TO OUR URGING, YOU CAN NOW ORDER CHRIS'S INCOMPARABLE DUCK CONFIT ON A BED OF BITTER GREENS OR WITH OATMEAL PANCAKES ON THE SIDE AT SALT'S CURE ON HIGHLAND.

KAREN HATFIELD'S SYCAMORE KITCHEN MAY MAKE THE BEST KOUIGN AMANN IN TOWN WHICH SHE CALLS A BUTTERCUP. I FIND THE SHORT RIB SANDWICH OR GRILLED CHEESE WITH WILTED GREENS AND TELEGGIO EQUALLY TEMPTING.

SYCAMORE IS IN CLOSE COMPETITION WITH RÉPUBLIQUE, FURTHER DOWN ON LA BREA. SHALL I ORDER THE SMOKED SALMON TARTINE ON A BED OF GUACAMOLE OR THE CUBAN SANDWICH? DON'T LEAVE WITHOUT A MULTIGRAIN OR RAISIN NUT LOAF TUCKED UNDER YOU ARM.

FURTHER NORTH ON LA BREA, I LOVE THE SPRING ROLLS AND PHO AT NONG LA, WITH ITS DEEPLY-FLAVORED BROTH AND ORGANIC CHICKEN.

I HAVE YET TO FIND RAMEN EQUAL TO THE 16-HOUR PORK BONE RICHNESS AT SILVERLAKE RAMEN, THOUGH YOU'LL HAVE BETTER LUCK AT 3PM THAN LUNCHTIME.
BUT 2017 MARKED THE OPENING OF SEVERAL NEW DISCOVERIES, AMONG THEM KISMET, NATHAN McCALL'S 2024 HILLHURST, AND THE SUPERB BREAD, SALADS AND SANDWICHES AT FRIENDS AND FAMILY WHERE PANOS' BAKERY ONCE STOOD.

AT VERLAINE, IN THE FORMER DOMINICK'S ON BEVERLY, IT MAY SURPRISE YOU TO KNOW CHEF DIEGO HERNANDEZ IS PREPARING NOT FRENCH BUT HAUTE MEXICAN DISHES.

PERHAPS THE MOST EXCITING AND DRAMATIC NEW SPACE IS ROSSOBLU, MADE EVEN MORE DAZZLING AT NIGHT BY ITS LOCATION IN THE FASHION DISTRICT, WHICH THOUGH BUSTLING BY DAY, IS DESOLATE AT NIGHT. BUT THE RESTAURANT, ON THE SITE OF THE FORMER CITY MARKET, BOASTS A WALL SIZE PHOTO MONTAGE MURAL AND AN INVITING OUTDOOR PATIO AND GARDENS, WHERE THE DIN IS LOST IN THE BALMY NIGHT. DIG IN TO HEARTY BOLOGNESE FARE, WITH SUPERB PASTAS, SALADS AND RIB-STICKING ENTRÉES SUCH AS ROAST SUCKLING PIG AND BRICK-PRESSED CHICKEN.

AS WE TIPTOE INTO 2018, I WILL NOT BE ORDERING THE $250 TASTING MENU AT VERSPERTINE, BUT LOOK FORWARD TO MY FIRST DINNER AT APRIL BLOOMFIELD'S HEARTH AND HOUND, TO BISTROT FARE AT JOURNEYMAN IN ATWATER VILLAGE, FILIPINO FOOD, AND MOZZARELLA STICKS AT COSA BUONA.

THAT'S JUST FOR STARTERS.