WE LEFT OUR STOMACHS IN SAN FRANCISCO

AROUND THIS TIME LAST YEAR, WE INVITED THREE OF OUR CLOSEST FRIENDS — ESTHER AND THE FALCONS (SANDY AND RUTH) — TO UMBRIA, WHERE WE HAD RENTED A BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED 12TH CENTURY HOUSE, NOT FAR FROM ASSISI, PERUGIA AND GUBBIO. WE INFLICTED A SMALL AMOUNT OF ART ON THEM. FOCUSSING PRIMARILY ON TOURING, EATING AND SHOPPING. THEY HAD A GREAT TEN DAYS AND SO DID WE.

IN AN ATTEMPT TO RECAPTURE THAT SAME CAMARADERIE, SANDY RENTED A HOUSE ON A QUIET STREET IN THE PRESIDIO, WHERE FOR FIVE DAYS, WE DROVE AND UBERED AROUND SAN FRANCISCO, VISITING MUSEUMS, DINING IN A RANGE OF RESTAURANTS, SHOPPING, AND GENERALLY ENJOYING THIS VERY BEAUTIFUL CITY IN PERFECT WEATHER.

SANDY AND RUTH DROVE, WHILE ESTHER, LYNN AND I FLEW. THE FALCONS PICKED US UP AT THE S.F. AIRPORT AND WE ALL DROVE TO THE HOUSE. THE THREE-STORY, SHINGLED TOWNHOUSE WAS ECLECTICALLY FURNISHED BUT ADMIRABLY EQUIPPED. IT FELT LIKE THE FAMILY HAD MOVED OUT JUST IN TIME TO LET US IN. AFTER AN EXCELLENT SANDWICH LUNCH AT ASHLEY, WE FOUND A SMALL, HIGH-END SUPERMARKET AND STOCKED UP FOR BREAKFASTS.

I HAD BEEN DESIGNATED THE FOOD DIRECTOR, THOUGH THE GROUP HAD STIPULATED THEY DIDN’T WANT “FANCY” RESTAURANTS, SO I GENERALLY AVOIDED TASTING MENUS OR PLACES WITH $65 ENTREES. RELYING ON THE NY TIMES 25 BEST RESTAURANTS IN SAN FRANCISCO AND THE INFATUATION.

OUR FIRST DINNER WAS AT A CLASSIC CANTONESE PLACE IN CHINATOWN CALLED R&G LOUNGE. WHY LOUNGE, I HAVEN’T A CLUE. BUT THE DOWNSTAIRS DINING ROOM WAS PACKED WITH MOSTLY CHINESE PEOPLE, FACING MOUNTAINOUS HEAPS OF FRIED DUNGENESS CRAB WASHED DOWN WITH TSING TAO. WE FOLLOWED SUIT, ADDING CRISP AND JUICY PEKING DUCK, SAUTÉED PEA SHOOT LEAVES, PAN FRIED STRING BEANS, AND A LACKLUSTER NOODLE DISH. SO FAR, SO GOOD.

TUESDAY WAS MUSEUM DAY. PAUL McCARTNEY’s PHOTOS WERE AT THE DE YOUNG IN GOLDEN GATE PARK. I SUPPOSE IF ONE WERE A FANATICAL BEATLES FAN, EIGHT ROOMS, CHRONICLING THE FAB FOUR’S APPEARANCES ON FOUR CONTINENTS, BOTH ONSTAGE AND LOUNGING AROUND HOTELS ROOMS WITH THEIR WIVES AND GIRLFRIENDS, WOULD HAVE PROVED RIVETING. BUT PAUL, GREAT MUSICIAN THOUGH HE IS, IS NOT CARTIER BRESSON OR RICHARD AVEDON. SO THREE ROOMS IN MY EYES STARTED GLAZING OVER. JUST BEYOND THE PHOTO SHOW, HOWEVER, WAS A ROOM OF MATISSE CUTOUTS, WHICH I WAS EAGER TO SEE. THAT’S WHEN THE FIRE ALARM WENT OFF AND WE HAD TO EVACUATE THE BUILDING.

THIS TURNED OUT TO BE A MIXED BLESSING, SINCE THE DE YOUNG BORDERS ON THE BOTANICAL GARDENS, WHERE WE WANDERED THROUGH GROVES OF ROMALARIA AND NEW ZEALAND CHRISTMAS TREES.

AFTER A GENERALLY GHASTLY LUNCH AT THE S.F. MUSEUM OF ART, WE TOOK IN THE RUTH AZAWA SHOW. I’VE ALWAYS ADMIRED HER GHOSTLY WOVEN WIRE HANGINGS, BUT THIS EXHIBITION RAISED MY PREVIOUS ESTIMATION. THE PIECES WERE EXQUISITE, DELICATE, HAUNTING, INTRICATE CONSTRUCTIONS WHOSE SHADOWS WERE AS ENGAGING AS THE PIECES THEMSELVES.

TAKING THE TEMPERATURE OF THE GROUP, I DECIDED THIS WAS THE EVENING FOR A SERIOUSLY FILLING MEAL. HOW ABOUT MINNIE BELL’S SOUL MOVEMENT, WHERE MINNIE SERVES UP FLAWLESS FRIED CHICKEN, CORN BREAD, OXTAILS, AND MACK ‘N’ CHEESE, INSPIRED BY HER GREAT AUNT, THE LEGENDARY FERNAY McPHERSON. WE ORDERED SO MUCH FOOD THAT I GAVE OUR TAKEAWAY TO OUR GRATEFUL UBER DRIVER.

WEDNESDAY WAS RUTH’S BIRTHDAY AND SHE HAD FOND MEMORIES OF ZUNI CAFE FROM A PREVIOUS LIFETIME. OUR FRIENDS CLAUDIA AND ANTHONY FLEW UP FROM L.A. TO JOIN THE CELEBRATION, WHICH WAS APPROPRIATELY DRUNKEN AND LIVELY. BY THE TIME WE WERE SEATED EVERYONE WAS HIGH ON ONE THING OR ANOTHER, SO ZUNI’S LEGENDARY ROAST CHICKEN, WHICH TAKES 75 MINUTES TO MAKE AND COSTS A DOLLAR A MINUTE, ARRIVED AS WE WERE ALL FADING. I CAN’T SAY IT WAS WORTH THE WAIT. YOU’D THINK IF YOU’RE ROASTING A WHOLE CHICKEN IN REAL TIME AND HAVE BEEN DOING SO FOR 45 YEARS, IT WOULD ARRIVE PERFECTLY COOKED RATHER THAN TOUGH WITH DRY WHITE MEAT.

THE NEXT DAY, THURSDAY, OUR OLD FRIEND POLLY FRIZZEL AND HER FRIEND GEORGIA PICKED US UP AND DROVE US ACROSS THE OAKLAND BAY BRIDGE TO CHEZ PANISSE IN BERKLEY. WE ATE UPSTAIRS IN THE CAFE, WHICH OVER THE COURSE OF SEVERAL VISITS HAS NEVER DISAPPOINTED. THIS MEAL WAS NO EXCEPTION. BRIGHT AND CRUNCHY SALADS: ONE WITH BAKED CHEVRE; THE OTHER, WITH MARINATED BEETS, CARROTS AND PISTACHIOS. HALIBUT WITH SNAP PEAS. LOIN OF PORK ROASTED WITH CUMIN AND A JUICY HALF CHICKEN AL MATTONE WITH SPINACH AND PEA SHOOTS. A CHOCOLATE MOUSSE. AN EXQUISITE CHERRY TART. ALL WASHED DOWN WITH AN EXPENSIVE BUT SAVORY ALSATIAN RIESLING.

FRIDAY, OUR LAST DAY, WAS DEVOTED TO SHOPPING AND WANDERING AROUND THE FUNKY NEIGHBORHOOD OF NORTH BEACH, WHERE THERE ARE MORE PIZZA JOINTS PER BLOCK THAN ANY BLOCK IN PALERMO. LUNCH WAS CIOPPINO AT SOTTO MARE; PLENTY ENOUGH FOR TWO IN THE RATHER GRIM DOWNSTAIRS ANNEX, BUT DELICIOUS NEVERTHELESS.

OUR FINAL MEAL, I’D RESERVED A TABLE AT AZIZA, WHERE LYNN AND I HAD EATEN YEARS BEFORE BUT WAS STILL ON THE TOP OF EVERYONE’S RECOMMENDED LISTS, INCLUDING THE MICHELIN. THE RESTAURANT HAD GROWN LARGER AND MORE REFINED THAN I’D REMEMBERED, BUT THE ROOM, THE SERVICE, THE FOOD WAS BETTER THAN EVER. THE DISHES ARE INSPIRED BY MOROCCO, WITH CLASSICS SUCH AS CHICKEN BASTEEYA AND BRAISED LAMB SHANK AND SOME TRUE INVENTIONS SUCH AS BURRATA WITH TOMATO JAM AND GREEN SHAKSHUKA WITH LEEKS, SPINACH AND FETA. THE CORN BREAD WAS AS MUCH PUDDING AS BREAD; THE BROCCOLINI, CRISP AND FLAVORED WITH PRESERVED LEMON. A SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WAS FULL-BODIED AND ELEGANT. AZIZA WAS A FITTING ENDING TO A JOLLY FIVE DAYS.

SATURDAY MORNING, WE ALL PILED INTO THE FALCON’S HONDA AND MADE IT BACK TO L.A. IN SEVEN HOURS, WITH A STOP OFF IN PASO ROBLES FOR HAMBURGERS AND BEER.

WE’RE ALREADY PLANNING NEXT YEAR’S EXCURSION. WE’RE OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS. Z

FISH FRY

MOST OF THE TIME, I PAN ROAST FISH, BUT WITH THE LAST OF THE LING COD OF THE SEASON, I HAD A HANKERING FOR FRIED FISH; JUST A LIGHT CRUST ON THE OUTSIDE TO SEAL IN THE FLAVOR AND THE ENTICING CRUNCH THAT YOU ONLY GET WITH FRYING. THIS IS AN ALARMINGLY SIMPLE RECIPE, HARDLY ANY PREP, SO I URGE YOU TO GO TO THE TROUBLE OF USING HOMEMADE BREADCRUMBS WHICH ADD A DIMENSION OF FLAVOR MISSING FROM THE STORE-BOUGHT VERSION. I SERVED THE FRIED COD WITH BABY JAPANESE TURNIPS POACHED IN WATER AND BUTTER. RICE OR STEAMED NEW POTATOES BOTH MAKE GOOD SUBSTITUTES, BUT THESE SPRING TURNIPS ARE IRRESISTABLY SWEET.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/fish-fry/

FRICO

FRICOS, WHICH ORIGINATE IN FRUILI, ARE LITTLE DISKS OF CHEESE, MELTED TO A CRISP. YOU CAN SERVE THEM WHOLE AND SERVE THEM WITH TOMATO SOUP OR A SALAD. OR, YOU CAN CRUMBLE AND SCATTER THEM OVER PRACTICALLY ANYTHING. THEY STORE NICELY SO YOU CAN MAKE THEM AHEAD OF TIME OR STORE THEM IN A TIN FOR FUTURE USE. THEY’RE RIDICULOUSLY SIMPLE TO MAKE. YOU JUST HAVE TO KEEP A SHARP EYE OUT DURING THE BAKING– TOO LITTLE AND THEY’RE LEATHERY; OVERCOOKED, THEY HAVE A BITTER TASTE. WHEN PERFECTLY MADE, HOWEVER, THEY ARE AN UNEXPECTED TREAT. THIS RECIPE WAS ADAPTED FROM THE SIX SEASONS COOKBOOK.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/frico/

CHUPE DE CAMARONES AT MARIO'S

May 13, 2025 No Comments

WE MOVED TO LOS ANGELES IN 1975 FROM NEW YORK AND WERE APPALLED INITIALLY BY THE FOOD SCENE. THERE WERE ONLY A HANDFUL OF DECENT ITALIAN OR FRENCH RESTAURANTS. OUR KNOWLEDGE OF CHINESE FOOD DIDN’T EXTEND MUCH BEYOND CHINATOWN AND WE’D NEVER EXPERIENCED THAI, VIETNAMESE, ARMENIAN, AND EVEN MEXICAN FOOD. THAT BEGAN TO CHANGE WHEN WE EXPLORED THOSE CUISINES RIGHT IN OUR HOLLYWOOD NEIGHBORHOOD.

A NEWCOMER IN 1990 WAS MARIO’S PERUVIAN SEAFOOD ON THE PENINSULAR CORNER OF MELROSE AND VINE. THE FOOD DISHES WERE DELICIOUS, COPIOUS AND CHEAP.

I OFTEN WENT BY MYSELF FOR LUNCH, BUT WITH THE LONG WAITS FOR A TABLE BEGAN TO PALL, I GAVE UP ON MARIO’S UNTIL RECENTLY WHEN I RETURNED WITH MY FOOD JOINT GUYS ON ONE OF OUR PERIODIC JAUNTS FOR CHEAP, GOOD EATS.

THE FOOD WAS BETTER THAN EVER; THE SERVICE, FRIENDLY AND EFFICIENT AND THE PRICES REMARKABLY REASONABLE CONSIDERING HOW MUCH MARIO’S PACKS ON EACH PLATE. CEVICHE OF SQUID, FISH AND SHRIMP IS LIVELY WITH LIME, RED ONION, GARLIC AND CILANTRO. SALTADO DE MARISCOS IS TOSSED WITH BROWNED ONIONS, GARLIC AND TOMATOES OVER RICE WITH A SUBTLE KICK OF CHILIS.

ON A CHILLY SPRING DAY A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO, HOWEVER, I HAD A HANKERING FOR THEIR CHUPE DE CAMARONES.

THIS RICH SOUP IS A DAY-GLO BOWL OF SHRIMP STOCK FLAVORED WITH PIECES OF FRESH GINGER, CHILIS, TOMATO, CELERY, GARLIC, AND ONIONS WITH LITTLE PIECES OF EGG WHITE LIKE EGG DROP SOUP. IT IS SO HOT ON ARRIVAL THAT YOU MAY BE WELL INTO THE BROTH BEFORE THE SHELL-ON SHRIMP ARE COOL ENOUGH TO PEEL AND EAT. BUT NOTHING ELSE COULD BETTER WARM YOUR COCKLES ON A CHILLY CALIFORNIA DAY.

L.O. CHICKEN TARRGON

I PROBABLY SHOULD WRITE A LEFTOVER CHICKEN COOKBOOK. I LOVE ROAST CHICKEN BUT BECAUSE I’M USUALLY COOKING FOR TWO, THERE’S ALWAYS A LOT OF LEFTOVER CHICKEN, MOSTLY WHITE MEAT SINCE BOTH LYNN AND I PREFER THIGHS TO BREASTS. WHITE MEAT DOESN’T TAKE WELL TO MORE COOKING, WHICH TOUGHENS IT AND DRIES IT OUT. SO, ONE IS LEFT WITH THREE OPTIONS– CHICKEN SALAD, CHICKEN SOUP AND CHICKEN IS SOME KIND OF SAUCE, WHICH GOES WELL OVER PASTA OR RICE. THIS IS ONE OF THOSE INVENTIONS AND ONE OF THE SIMPLEST. MAKE A SAUCE WITH LEEKS AND GARLIC. ADD A GENEROUS QUANTITY OF CRÉME FRAÎCHE, AND LOTS OF FRESH TARRAGON, FOLD IN THE LEFTOVER CHICKEN, HEAT GENTLY AND SERVE OVER PASTA. YOU’LL PROBABLY HAVE ENOUGH FOR FOUR. YOU MIGHT EVEN HAVE SOME LEFTOVERS.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/l-o-chicken-tarragon/

BUCATINI WITH MUSHROOMS AND SUGAR SNAP PEAS

I SPOTTED THESE INTRIGUING LITTLE MUSHROOMS WITH THEIR ROUND NUBBY CAPS AND LONG STEMS AT A STAND IN THE FARMERS MARKET WHICH SELLS SEVERAL VARIETIES OF EXOTIC CULTIVATED MUSHROOMS. THEIR FIRM TEXTURE ALLOWS THEM TO STAND UP TO PAN COOKING WITH THE UMAMI OF SOME WILD MUSHROOMS. I DON’T KNOW THEIR NAME, BUT I CAN FIND OUT. SHITAKES WOULD BE A FAIR SUBSTITUTE. SO WOULD SMALL BROWN BUTTON MUSHROOMS. IN ANY CASE, I SAUTÉED THEM WITH GREEN GARLIC AND LEEKS, DEGLAZED THE PAN WITH WHITE WINE AND CHICKEN STOCK, THEN TOSSED IN SUGAR SNAP PEAS FOR THE BRIEFEST OF COOKING BEFORE COMBINING IT WITH BUCATINI. THEN ALL YOU NEED IS FRESHLY-GRATED PARMESAN. SERVED WITH A CRISP WHITE WINE AND YOU’VE GOT THE PERFECT SPRING PASTA.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/bucatini-with-mushrooms-and-sugar-snap-peas/

FENNEL AND BLOOD ORANGE SALAD

CITRUS SEASON IS AT ITS HEIGHT AND THE FARMERS MARKETS ARE BRIGHT WITH MANDARINS, POMELOS, MEYER LEMONS, AND ALL KINDS OF ORANGES — NAVEL, CARA CARA AND BLOODS. I’VE BEEN SQUEEZING THEM EVERY MORNING FOR BREAKFAST, MAKING CITRUS SALADS, INCORPORATING THEM IN BRAISES AND EATING THEM FOR DESSERT. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE COMBINES BLOOD ORANGES AND SLICED FENNEL. THEN ALL YOU NEED IS GOOD OLIVE OIL, SOME FRESH PARSLEY OR DILL AND SHAVINGS OF PARMESAN. AESTHETICALLY, IT MAKES FOR A CHEERFUL AND FLAVORFUL FIRST COURSE SALAD.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/blood-orange-and-fennel-salad/

BEEF SHORT RIBS

SHORT RIBS, LIKE ITS BONE-IN COUSIN OXTAIL, IS A TOUGH CUT WHICH WITH LONG AND GENTLE BRAISING YIELDS DEEPLY FLAVORFUL MEAT WITHOUT LOSING ITS TEXTURE. “MEAT IS SWEETEST CLOSE TO THE BONE,” SOMEONE ONCE SAID AND NOTHING COULD BE TRUER IN THE CASE OF SHORT RIBS. IF YOUR BUTCHER HASN’T DONE IT ALREADY, CUT BETWEEN THE RIBS AND BROWN THEM TO A DEEP MAHOGANY BEFORE BRAISING THEM WITH ONIONS, CARROTS, CELERY, GARLIC, TOMATOES, AND A BOUQUET GARNIE. IF YOU WANT A REALLY RICH SAUCE, THEN USE RED WINE AND/OR BEEF STOCK, BUT I PREFER CHICKEN STOCK (HOMEMADE IF YOU’VE GOT IT), WHICH ALLOWS THE MEAT TO ASSERT ITSELF. YOU CAN ADD CARROTS, POTATOES AND ALL MANNER OF ROOT VEGETABLES. OR, IF YOU’RE LAZY, SERVE THEM WITH EGG NOODLES. EITHER WAY, I CAN’T THINK OF A BETTER DISH TO COMBAT THE LINGERING CHILL OF WINTER. https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/beef-short-ribs/

SHRIMP WITH ONIONS, GARLIC AND TOMATOES

COMING UP WITH A NEW RECIPE IS NOT SO MUCH AN ACT OF CULINARY GENIUS AS SIMPLY COMBINING ONE’S FAVORITE INGREDIENTS. AND, IN MY CASE, MAKING THE MOST OF WHAT’S IN MY KITCHEN. I’D ALREADY BOUGHT A POUND OF PINK “COLOSSAL” SHRIMP (AN OXYMORON). I HAD MOST OF A LARGE RED ONION AND A HANDFUL OF EARLY GIRL TOMATOES. THE SHRIMP TAKE ONLY A COUPLE OF MINUTES TO COOK; THE OTHER INGREDIENTS, A BIT LONGER. SO I STARTED WITH THE ONIONS, GARLIC AND TOMATOES, SET THEM ASIDE, WASHED OUT THE PAN AND SAUTÉED THE SHRIMP. I COMBINED THE TOMATO MIXTURE WITH PENNE AND TOPPED IT WITH THE SHRIMP. THE DISH TASTED AS GOOD AS IT LOOKS.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/shrimp-with-onions-garlic-and-tomatoes/

LAMB SERENDIP

MY MOTHER’S FAVORITE WORD WAS SERENDIPITY, A HAPPY ACCIDENT, LIKE TRIPPING ON THE STREET AND LANDING ON A $100 BILL. SUCH WAS THE CASE WHEN I ATTEMPTED A SIMPLE LAMB STEW WITH HERBS AND WHITE WINE VINEGAR. IT IS COOKED ATOP THE STOVE AND WHEN I WENT TO CHECK ITS PROGRESS, FOUND TO MY HORROR THAT THE LIQUID HAD COOKED OFF, LEAVING A CHARRED MESS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE POT. BUT THE LAMB TASTED OKAY, ALTHOUGH IT NEEDED A BIT MORE COOKING. SO I RESCUED THE LAMB AND FINISHED IT WITH CHICKEN STOCK IN A FRESH POT. STILL, IT TASTED TOO STRONGLY OF VINEGAR. THE SOLUTION WAS TO CUT TWO RED ONIONS INTO EIGHTHS, BROWN THEM SEPARATELY AND ADD THEM TO THE POT. THE FINISHED STEW, TEMPERED WITH THE SWEET ONIONS, WAS RICH AND COMPLEX. GOOD ENOUGH TO SHARE WITH YOU.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/lamb-serendip/

SOLE MEUNIÉRE

SOLE MEUNIÈRE IS A FRENCH CLASSIC; A CLASSIC THAT IS ALWAYS MADE WITH DOVER SOLE. WHAT MAKES DOVER SOLE SO SPECIAL IS THAT ASIDE FROM ITS SUCCULENT TASTE, THE TEXTURE OF THE FLESH IS FIRM LIKE TURBOT, WHICH IS IDEAL FOR PAN SAUTÉING THE WHOLE SKINNED FISH. UNTIL A FEW YEARS AGO, HOWEVER, YOU COULDN’T FIND AUTHENTIC DOVER SOLE IN THE U.S. BUT NOW IT TURNS UP AT HIGH-END FISH MONGERS. THE PREPARATION IS SIMPLE BUT PRECISE. DREDGE THE SOLE IS FLOUR AND BROWN ON BOTH SIDES IN CLARIFIED BUTTER. A LITTLE PARSLEY, SOME LEMON WEDGES AND STEAMED FINGERLING POTATOES. THAT’S IT. I WOULDN’T DISCOURAGE A SAUCE BEARNAISE, BUT SOME MIGHT ARGUE THAT’S GILDING THE LILY.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/sole-meuniere/