I’M NOT A BIG FAN OF ROASTED GREEN VEGETABLES, WHICH LOSE THEIR BRIGHT FLAVOR WHEN COOKED IN THE OVEN.  I PREFER TO STIR-FRY MY BROCOLLINI, SPINACH, AND, MOST RECENTLY, A FABULOUS GREEN CALLED SPIGARELLO, WHICH IS THE BEST OF ALL THREE.  FOR YEARS I’VE STRUGGLED WITH A LARGE, ROUND-SIDED SAUCEPAN, BUT THE SPINACH HAS TO BE ADDED IN INCREMENTS AND THE VOLUME OF THE VEGE-   TABLE ALWAYS OVERWHELMS THE PAN.  I KNEW I NEEDED A WOK.  YOU CAN BUY EXPENSIVE STAINLESS STEEL WOKS FROM ALL-CLAD, HESTON OR ANY NUMBER OF EXCELLENT MANUFACTURERS BUT I OPTED FOR THE REAL THING  — A BLUE STEEL, FLAT-BOTTOMED WOK (SO IT SITS ON A BURNER) WITH A WOODEN HANDLE, MADE BY BY MAMMAFONG.  IT CAME PRE-SEASONED.  YOU MAINTAIN IT LIKE A CAST-RON PAN.  NO SOAP AND WATER. I HAVE JUST BEGIN TO LEARN HOW TO USE THIS 2000-YEAR-OLD “COOKING POT” WHICH TRANSLATES TO “WOK” IN CANTONESE.  I LOOK AT MY BATTERIE DE CUISINE, COLLECTED OVER YEARS OF COOKING AND REALIZE THAT WITH THE ADDITION OF A STEAMING RACK AND A LID, THIS SINGLE POT CAN DO PRACTICALLY EVERYTHING I DO WITH TEN OR MORE SPECIALIZED POTS AND PANS. SPIGARELLO IS ONLY THE BEGINNING.