I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

NOTHING REMINDS ME MORE OF SPRING THAN SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEIR GREEN, BRIGHT FLAVOR STANDS ALONE, SO I TRY AND STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY, COOKING THEM BRIEFLY IN WATER AND BUTTER, THEN TOSSING THEM WITH BARELY SAUTÉED GREEN ONIONS OR, EVEN BETTER, GREEN GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS.  IN THIS CASE, TARRAGON.
Click here to download recipe

YOU CAN STEAM BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ROAST THEM, DEEP FRY THEM, SERVE THEM RAW AS A CAESAR SALAD, AND, IN THIS CASE, SEAR THEM IN A PAN, THEN ADD WATER AND A DASH OF LEMON JUICE AND COOK TILL THEY ARE TENDER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS RECIPE IS THAT SEARING THEM, EVEN CHARRING A FEW, CONTRIBUTES LAYERS OF FLAVOR TO THESE MINI CABBAGES.  THEY PAIR WELL WITH PRACTICALLY ANY HERB.  HERE, THEY’RE TOSSED WITH LEMON ZEST AND CHIVES, BUT PARSLEY, DILL OR BASIL WOULD DO EQUALLY WELL.
Click here to download recipe

WINTER WON’T LAST FOREVER.  THE SNOW WILL MELT ON THE EAST COAST AND THE RAINS WILL CEASE ON THE WEST.  SALADS, GRILLED MEAT AND FISH WILL REPLACE SOUPS AND STEWS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A SPRING/SUMMER DISH, ALTHOUGH IN L.A. SEASONAL DISTINCTIONS DON’T COUNT FOR MUCH.

THE SECRET TO GRILLING OR PAN-COOKING TUNA IS TO FREEZE IT FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE COOKING.  THAT WAY THE OUTSIDE BROWNS BUT THE CENTER STAYS RARE.

THIS AIOLI RECIPE IS FROM DANIEL BOULUD AND CAN BE USED FOR MANY THINGS BESIDES THIS PARTICULAR DISH.

WITH THE ADDITION OF ROASTED FINGERLINGS AND ARUGULA, IT BECOMES A KIND OF SALDE NIÇOISE MANQUḖ.  IF YOU WANT TO GO FURTHER IN THAT DIRECTION, ADD HARICOTS VERTS AND WEDGES OF TOMATO, THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND ANY IN SEASON IN MARCH, EITHER HERE OR IN NEW YORK.

Click here to download recipe

I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY WITH FRENCH BREAD AND A SALAD OF FRESHLY-PICKED LETTUCES FROM THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (more…)

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

NOTHING REMINDS ME MORE OF SPRING THAN SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEIR GREEN, BRIGHT FLAVOR STANDS ALONE, SO I TRY AND STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY, COOKING THEM BRIEFLY IN WATER AND BUTTER, THEN TOSSING THEM WITH BARELY SAUTÉED GREEN ONIONS OR, EVEN BETTER, GREEN GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS.  IN THIS CASE, TARRAGON.
Click here to download recipe

YOU CAN STEAM BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ROAST THEM, DEEP FRY THEM, SERVE THEM RAW AS A CAESAR SALAD, AND, IN THIS CASE, SEAR THEM IN A PAN, THEN ADD WATER AND A DASH OF LEMON JUICE AND COOK TILL THEY ARE TENDER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS RECIPE IS THAT SEARING THEM, EVEN CHARRING A FEW, CONTRIBUTES LAYERS OF FLAVOR TO THESE MINI CABBAGES.  THEY PAIR WELL WITH PRACTICALLY ANY HERB.  HERE, THEY’RE TOSSED WITH LEMON ZEST AND CHIVES, BUT PARSLEY, DILL OR BASIL WOULD DO EQUALLY WELL.
Click here to download recipe

WINTER WON’T LAST FOREVER.  THE SNOW WILL MELT ON THE EAST COAST AND THE RAINS WILL CEASE ON THE WEST.  SALADS, GRILLED MEAT AND FISH WILL REPLACE SOUPS AND STEWS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A SPRING/SUMMER DISH, ALTHOUGH IN L.A. SEASONAL DISTINCTIONS DON’T COUNT FOR MUCH.

THE SECRET TO GRILLING OR PAN-COOKING TUNA IS TO FREEZE IT FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE COOKING.  THAT WAY THE OUTSIDE BROWNS BUT THE CENTER STAYS RARE.

THIS AIOLI RECIPE IS FROM DANIEL BOULUD AND CAN BE USED FOR MANY THINGS BESIDES THIS PARTICULAR DISH.

WITH THE ADDITION OF ROASTED FINGERLINGS AND ARUGULA, IT BECOMES A KIND OF SALDE NIÇOISE MANQUḖ.  IF YOU WANT TO GO FURTHER IN THAT DIRECTION, ADD HARICOTS VERTS AND WEDGES OF TOMATO, THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND ANY IN SEASON IN MARCH, EITHER HERE OR IN NEW YORK.

Click here to download recipe

I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY WITH FRENCH BREAD AND A SALAD OF FRESHLY-PICKED LETTUCES FROM THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (more…)

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

NOTHING REMINDS ME MORE OF SPRING THAN SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEIR GREEN, BRIGHT FLAVOR STANDS ALONE, SO I TRY AND STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY, COOKING THEM BRIEFLY IN WATER AND BUTTER, THEN TOSSING THEM WITH BARELY SAUTÉED GREEN ONIONS OR, EVEN BETTER, GREEN GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS.  IN THIS CASE, TARRAGON.
Click here to download recipe

YOU CAN STEAM BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ROAST THEM, DEEP FRY THEM, SERVE THEM RAW AS A CAESAR SALAD, AND, IN THIS CASE, SEAR THEM IN A PAN, THEN ADD WATER AND A DASH OF LEMON JUICE AND COOK TILL THEY ARE TENDER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS RECIPE IS THAT SEARING THEM, EVEN CHARRING A FEW, CONTRIBUTES LAYERS OF FLAVOR TO THESE MINI CABBAGES.  THEY PAIR WELL WITH PRACTICALLY ANY HERB.  HERE, THEY’RE TOSSED WITH LEMON ZEST AND CHIVES, BUT PARSLEY, DILL OR BASIL WOULD DO EQUALLY WELL.
Click here to download recipe

WINTER WON’T LAST FOREVER.  THE SNOW WILL MELT ON THE EAST COAST AND THE RAINS WILL CEASE ON THE WEST.  SALADS, GRILLED MEAT AND FISH WILL REPLACE SOUPS AND STEWS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A SPRING/SUMMER DISH, ALTHOUGH IN L.A. SEASONAL DISTINCTIONS DON’T COUNT FOR MUCH.

THE SECRET TO GRILLING OR PAN-COOKING TUNA IS TO FREEZE IT FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE COOKING.  THAT WAY THE OUTSIDE BROWNS BUT THE CENTER STAYS RARE.

THIS AIOLI RECIPE IS FROM DANIEL BOULUD AND CAN BE USED FOR MANY THINGS BESIDES THIS PARTICULAR DISH.

WITH THE ADDITION OF ROASTED FINGERLINGS AND ARUGULA, IT BECOMES A KIND OF SALDE NIÇOISE MANQUḖ.  IF YOU WANT TO GO FURTHER IN THAT DIRECTION, ADD HARICOTS VERTS AND WEDGES OF TOMATO, THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND ANY IN SEASON IN MARCH, EITHER HERE OR IN NEW YORK.

Click here to download recipe

I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY WITH FRENCH BREAD AND A SALAD OF FRESHLY-PICKED LETTUCES FROM THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (more…)

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

NOTHING REMINDS ME MORE OF SPRING THAN SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEIR GREEN, BRIGHT FLAVOR STANDS ALONE, SO I TRY AND STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY, COOKING THEM BRIEFLY IN WATER AND BUTTER, THEN TOSSING THEM WITH BARELY SAUTÉED GREEN ONIONS OR, EVEN BETTER, GREEN GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS.  IN THIS CASE, TARRAGON.
Click here to download recipe

YOU CAN STEAM BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ROAST THEM, DEEP FRY THEM, SERVE THEM RAW AS A CAESAR SALAD, AND, IN THIS CASE, SEAR THEM IN A PAN, THEN ADD WATER AND A DASH OF LEMON JUICE AND COOK TILL THEY ARE TENDER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS RECIPE IS THAT SEARING THEM, EVEN CHARRING A FEW, CONTRIBUTES LAYERS OF FLAVOR TO THESE MINI CABBAGES.  THEY PAIR WELL WITH PRACTICALLY ANY HERB.  HERE, THEY’RE TOSSED WITH LEMON ZEST AND CHIVES, BUT PARSLEY, DILL OR BASIL WOULD DO EQUALLY WELL.
Click here to download recipe

WINTER WON’T LAST FOREVER.  THE SNOW WILL MELT ON THE EAST COAST AND THE RAINS WILL CEASE ON THE WEST.  SALADS, GRILLED MEAT AND FISH WILL REPLACE SOUPS AND STEWS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A SPRING/SUMMER DISH, ALTHOUGH IN L.A. SEASONAL DISTINCTIONS DON’T COUNT FOR MUCH.

THE SECRET TO GRILLING OR PAN-COOKING TUNA IS TO FREEZE IT FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE COOKING.  THAT WAY THE OUTSIDE BROWNS BUT THE CENTER STAYS RARE.

THIS AIOLI RECIPE IS FROM DANIEL BOULUD AND CAN BE USED FOR MANY THINGS BESIDES THIS PARTICULAR DISH.

WITH THE ADDITION OF ROASTED FINGERLINGS AND ARUGULA, IT BECOMES A KIND OF SALDE NIÇOISE MANQUḖ.  IF YOU WANT TO GO FURTHER IN THAT DIRECTION, ADD HARICOTS VERTS AND WEDGES OF TOMATO, THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND ANY IN SEASON IN MARCH, EITHER HERE OR IN NEW YORK.

Click here to download recipe

I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY WITH FRENCH BREAD AND A SALAD OF FRESHLY-PICKED LETTUCES FROM THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (more…)

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

NOTHING REMINDS ME MORE OF SPRING THAN SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEIR GREEN, BRIGHT FLAVOR STANDS ALONE, SO I TRY AND STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY, COOKING THEM BRIEFLY IN WATER AND BUTTER, THEN TOSSING THEM WITH BARELY SAUTÉED GREEN ONIONS OR, EVEN BETTER, GREEN GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS.  IN THIS CASE, TARRAGON.
Click here to download recipe

YOU CAN STEAM BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ROAST THEM, DEEP FRY THEM, SERVE THEM RAW AS A CAESAR SALAD, AND, IN THIS CASE, SEAR THEM IN A PAN, THEN ADD WATER AND A DASH OF LEMON JUICE AND COOK TILL THEY ARE TENDER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS RECIPE IS THAT SEARING THEM, EVEN CHARRING A FEW, CONTRIBUTES LAYERS OF FLAVOR TO THESE MINI CABBAGES.  THEY PAIR WELL WITH PRACTICALLY ANY HERB.  HERE, THEY’RE TOSSED WITH LEMON ZEST AND CHIVES, BUT PARSLEY, DILL OR BASIL WOULD DO EQUALLY WELL.
Click here to download recipe

WINTER WON’T LAST FOREVER.  THE SNOW WILL MELT ON THE EAST COAST AND THE RAINS WILL CEASE ON THE WEST.  SALADS, GRILLED MEAT AND FISH WILL REPLACE SOUPS AND STEWS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A SPRING/SUMMER DISH, ALTHOUGH IN L.A. SEASONAL DISTINCTIONS DON’T COUNT FOR MUCH.

THE SECRET TO GRILLING OR PAN-COOKING TUNA IS TO FREEZE IT FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE COOKING.  THAT WAY THE OUTSIDE BROWNS BUT THE CENTER STAYS RARE.

THIS AIOLI RECIPE IS FROM DANIEL BOULUD AND CAN BE USED FOR MANY THINGS BESIDES THIS PARTICULAR DISH.

WITH THE ADDITION OF ROASTED FINGERLINGS AND ARUGULA, IT BECOMES A KIND OF SALDE NIÇOISE MANQUḖ.  IF YOU WANT TO GO FURTHER IN THAT DIRECTION, ADD HARICOTS VERTS AND WEDGES OF TOMATO, THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND ANY IN SEASON IN MARCH, EITHER HERE OR IN NEW YORK.

Click here to download recipe

I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY WITH FRENCH BREAD AND A SALAD OF FRESHLY-PICKED LETTUCES FROM THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (more…)

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

NOTHING REMINDS ME MORE OF SPRING THAN SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEIR GREEN, BRIGHT FLAVOR STANDS ALONE, SO I TRY AND STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY, COOKING THEM BRIEFLY IN WATER AND BUTTER, THEN TOSSING THEM WITH BARELY SAUTÉED GREEN ONIONS OR, EVEN BETTER, GREEN GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS.  IN THIS CASE, TARRAGON.
Click here to download recipe

YOU CAN STEAM BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ROAST THEM, DEEP FRY THEM, SERVE THEM RAW AS A CAESAR SALAD, AND, IN THIS CASE, SEAR THEM IN A PAN, THEN ADD WATER AND A DASH OF LEMON JUICE AND COOK TILL THEY ARE TENDER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS RECIPE IS THAT SEARING THEM, EVEN CHARRING A FEW, CONTRIBUTES LAYERS OF FLAVOR TO THESE MINI CABBAGES.  THEY PAIR WELL WITH PRACTICALLY ANY HERB.  HERE, THEY’RE TOSSED WITH LEMON ZEST AND CHIVES, BUT PARSLEY, DILL OR BASIL WOULD DO EQUALLY WELL.
Click here to download recipe

WINTER WON’T LAST FOREVER.  THE SNOW WILL MELT ON THE EAST COAST AND THE RAINS WILL CEASE ON THE WEST.  SALADS, GRILLED MEAT AND FISH WILL REPLACE SOUPS AND STEWS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A SPRING/SUMMER DISH, ALTHOUGH IN L.A. SEASONAL DISTINCTIONS DON’T COUNT FOR MUCH.

THE SECRET TO GRILLING OR PAN-COOKING TUNA IS TO FREEZE IT FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE COOKING.  THAT WAY THE OUTSIDE BROWNS BUT THE CENTER STAYS RARE.

THIS AIOLI RECIPE IS FROM DANIEL BOULUD AND CAN BE USED FOR MANY THINGS BESIDES THIS PARTICULAR DISH.

WITH THE ADDITION OF ROASTED FINGERLINGS AND ARUGULA, IT BECOMES A KIND OF SALDE NIÇOISE MANQUḖ.  IF YOU WANT TO GO FURTHER IN THAT DIRECTION, ADD HARICOTS VERTS AND WEDGES OF TOMATO, THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND ANY IN SEASON IN MARCH, EITHER HERE OR IN NEW YORK.

Click here to download recipe

I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY WITH FRENCH BREAD AND A SALAD OF FRESHLY-PICKED LETTUCES FROM THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (more…)

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

NOTHING REMINDS ME MORE OF SPRING THAN SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEIR GREEN, BRIGHT FLAVOR STANDS ALONE, SO I TRY AND STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY, COOKING THEM BRIEFLY IN WATER AND BUTTER, THEN TOSSING THEM WITH BARELY SAUTÉED GREEN ONIONS OR, EVEN BETTER, GREEN GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS.  IN THIS CASE, TARRAGON.
Click here to download recipe

YOU CAN STEAM BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ROAST THEM, DEEP FRY THEM, SERVE THEM RAW AS A CAESAR SALAD, AND, IN THIS CASE, SEAR THEM IN A PAN, THEN ADD WATER AND A DASH OF LEMON JUICE AND COOK TILL THEY ARE TENDER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS RECIPE IS THAT SEARING THEM, EVEN CHARRING A FEW, CONTRIBUTES LAYERS OF FLAVOR TO THESE MINI CABBAGES.  THEY PAIR WELL WITH PRACTICALLY ANY HERB.  HERE, THEY’RE TOSSED WITH LEMON ZEST AND CHIVES, BUT PARSLEY, DILL OR BASIL WOULD DO EQUALLY WELL.
Click here to download recipe

WINTER WON’T LAST FOREVER.  THE SNOW WILL MELT ON THE EAST COAST AND THE RAINS WILL CEASE ON THE WEST.  SALADS, GRILLED MEAT AND FISH WILL REPLACE SOUPS AND STEWS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A SPRING/SUMMER DISH, ALTHOUGH IN L.A. SEASONAL DISTINCTIONS DON’T COUNT FOR MUCH.

THE SECRET TO GRILLING OR PAN-COOKING TUNA IS TO FREEZE IT FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE COOKING.  THAT WAY THE OUTSIDE BROWNS BUT THE CENTER STAYS RARE.

THIS AIOLI RECIPE IS FROM DANIEL BOULUD AND CAN BE USED FOR MANY THINGS BESIDES THIS PARTICULAR DISH.

WITH THE ADDITION OF ROASTED FINGERLINGS AND ARUGULA, IT BECOMES A KIND OF SALDE NIÇOISE MANQUḖ.  IF YOU WANT TO GO FURTHER IN THAT DIRECTION, ADD HARICOTS VERTS AND WEDGES OF TOMATO, THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND ANY IN SEASON IN MARCH, EITHER HERE OR IN NEW YORK.

Click here to download recipe

I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY WITH FRENCH BREAD AND A SALAD OF FRESHLY-PICKED LETTUCES FROM THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (more…)

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

NOTHING REMINDS ME MORE OF SPRING THAN SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEIR GREEN, BRIGHT FLAVOR STANDS ALONE, SO I TRY AND STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY, COOKING THEM BRIEFLY IN WATER AND BUTTER, THEN TOSSING THEM WITH BARELY SAUTÉED GREEN ONIONS OR, EVEN BETTER, GREEN GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS.  IN THIS CASE, TARRAGON.
Click here to download recipe

YOU CAN STEAM BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ROAST THEM, DEEP FRY THEM, SERVE THEM RAW AS A CAESAR SALAD, AND, IN THIS CASE, SEAR THEM IN A PAN, THEN ADD WATER AND A DASH OF LEMON JUICE AND COOK TILL THEY ARE TENDER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS RECIPE IS THAT SEARING THEM, EVEN CHARRING A FEW, CONTRIBUTES LAYERS OF FLAVOR TO THESE MINI CABBAGES.  THEY PAIR WELL WITH PRACTICALLY ANY HERB.  HERE, THEY’RE TOSSED WITH LEMON ZEST AND CHIVES, BUT PARSLEY, DILL OR BASIL WOULD DO EQUALLY WELL.
Click here to download recipe

WINTER WON’T LAST FOREVER.  THE SNOW WILL MELT ON THE EAST COAST AND THE RAINS WILL CEASE ON THE WEST.  SALADS, GRILLED MEAT AND FISH WILL REPLACE SOUPS AND STEWS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A SPRING/SUMMER DISH, ALTHOUGH IN L.A. SEASONAL DISTINCTIONS DON’T COUNT FOR MUCH.

THE SECRET TO GRILLING OR PAN-COOKING TUNA IS TO FREEZE IT FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE COOKING.  THAT WAY THE OUTSIDE BROWNS BUT THE CENTER STAYS RARE.

THIS AIOLI RECIPE IS FROM DANIEL BOULUD AND CAN BE USED FOR MANY THINGS BESIDES THIS PARTICULAR DISH.

WITH THE ADDITION OF ROASTED FINGERLINGS AND ARUGULA, IT BECOMES A KIND OF SALDE NIÇOISE MANQUḖ.  IF YOU WANT TO GO FURTHER IN THAT DIRECTION, ADD HARICOTS VERTS AND WEDGES OF TOMATO, THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND ANY IN SEASON IN MARCH, EITHER HERE OR IN NEW YORK.

Click here to download recipe

I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY WITH FRENCH BREAD AND A SALAD OF FRESHLY-PICKED LETTUCES FROM THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (more…)

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
Click here to download recipe

MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

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CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
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NOTHING REMINDS ME MORE OF SPRING THAN SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEIR GREEN, BRIGHT FLAVOR STANDS ALONE, SO I TRY AND STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY, COOKING THEM BRIEFLY IN WATER AND BUTTER, THEN TOSSING THEM WITH BARELY SAUTÉED GREEN ONIONS OR, EVEN BETTER, GREEN GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS.  IN THIS CASE, TARRAGON.
Click here to download recipe

YOU CAN STEAM BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ROAST THEM, DEEP FRY THEM, SERVE THEM RAW AS A CAESAR SALAD, AND, IN THIS CASE, SEAR THEM IN A PAN, THEN ADD WATER AND A DASH OF LEMON JUICE AND COOK TILL THEY ARE TENDER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS RECIPE IS THAT SEARING THEM, EVEN CHARRING A FEW, CONTRIBUTES LAYERS OF FLAVOR TO THESE MINI CABBAGES.  THEY PAIR WELL WITH PRACTICALLY ANY HERB.  HERE, THEY’RE TOSSED WITH LEMON ZEST AND CHIVES, BUT PARSLEY, DILL OR BASIL WOULD DO EQUALLY WELL.
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WINTER WON’T LAST FOREVER.  THE SNOW WILL MELT ON THE EAST COAST AND THE RAINS WILL CEASE ON THE WEST.  SALADS, GRILLED MEAT AND FISH WILL REPLACE SOUPS AND STEWS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A SPRING/SUMMER DISH, ALTHOUGH IN L.A. SEASONAL DISTINCTIONS DON’T COUNT FOR MUCH.

THE SECRET TO GRILLING OR PAN-COOKING TUNA IS TO FREEZE IT FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE COOKING.  THAT WAY THE OUTSIDE BROWNS BUT THE CENTER STAYS RARE.

THIS AIOLI RECIPE IS FROM DANIEL BOULUD AND CAN BE USED FOR MANY THINGS BESIDES THIS PARTICULAR DISH.

WITH THE ADDITION OF ROASTED FINGERLINGS AND ARUGULA, IT BECOMES A KIND OF SALDE NIÇOISE MANQUḖ.  IF YOU WANT TO GO FURTHER IN THAT DIRECTION, ADD HARICOTS VERTS AND WEDGES OF TOMATO, THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND ANY IN SEASON IN MARCH, EITHER HERE OR IN NEW YORK.

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I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY WITH FRENCH BREAD AND A SALAD OF FRESHLY-PICKED LETTUCES FROM THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (more…)

I’M ACTING IN A PLAY WHICH OPENS THIS WEEK AT THE MATRIX THEATRE IN LOS ANGELES CALLED “JEWS, CHRISTIANS AND SCREWING STALIN” IN WHICH BORSHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE FAMILY HISTORY (BUBBY’S UNCLE WAS A BORSHT TASTER IN THE TSAR’S ARMY.) SO IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT I POST THIS RECIPE. BORSHT IS KIND OF A GENERIC NAME FOR ANY SOUP INVOLVING BEETS AND OFTEN CONTAINS MEAT, WHICH MAKES IT HARDIER THAN THE ALL-VEGETABLE VERSION I OFFER HERE. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY A LUNCH AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS IN THE JEWISH MUSEUM ON FIFTH AVENUE. IT WAS THICK BUT SMOOTH, NOT TOO SWEET, AND A TAD SPICY, MADE WITH WATER AND NOT STOCK. IT’S AS GOOD AS THE BORSHT I HAD AT RUSS AND DAUGHTERS, MAYBE EVEN A BISL BETTER.
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MORELS, LIKE MOST WILD MUSHROOMS, ARE SEASONAL, DELICIOUS, AND EXPENSIVE, SELLING FOR $65 A POUND IN THE HOLLYWOOD FARMERS’ MARKET. SO WHEN THEY TURNED UP ON FOOD 52 FOR $35 A POUND, WHAT COULD I DO?  I MEAN WHO CAN RESIST A BARGAIN?  I LOOKED UP SEVERAL RECIPES AND THE MOST APPEALING WAS ONE BY LUDOVIC LEFEBVRE, MEANT TO ACCOMPANY GRILLED VEAL CHOPS (more…)

STONE FRUIT HAVE HIT THE FARMERS’ MARKETS, THE FIRST SIGN OF SUMMER.  STANDS ARE PILED HIGH WITH YELLOW PEACHES, WHITE NECTARINES AND APRICOTS.  ANY OF THEM WILL GO NICELY IN THIS SALAD, THEIR SWEETNESS OFFSET BY THE SALTY BITE OF FETA. (more…)

I’M CALLING THIS RECIPE BOUILLABAISSE PASTA BECAUSE IT CONTAINS FENNEL, GARLIC, SAFFRON, AND TOMATOES — THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF CLASSIC BOUILLABAISSE. IT’S A BIT COMPLICATED, SO HAVE YOUR MIS-EN-PLACE, EN PLACE, AND THE STEPS CLEAR IN YOUR MIND BEFORE YOU GET ROLLING. YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A SEAFOOD PASTA WHICH IS BOTH RUSTIC AND REFINED. SERVE WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE AND A STRAW-HUED WHITE FROM THE JURA OR A WHITE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE.
Click here to download recipe

THE PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS OF THIS DISH — SHRIMP, POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS — ARE COOKED SUCCESSIVELY IN THE SAME PAN.  I USED WELL-SEASONED CAST IRON, BUT YOU CAN PREPARE IT IN ANY LARGE SAUTÉ PAN.  THE POTATOES AND MUSHROOMS GIVE THE DISH A HOMEY FEEL; THE ONIONS, A SWEET MOISTURE.  THESE HUMBLE INGREDIENTS ALLOW THE SHRIMP TO STAND OUT, BOTH VISUALLY AND GASTRONOMICALLY.  IF YOU WANT A MORE REFINED VERSION, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE CHANTERELLES FOR BUTTON MUSHROOMS.  DON’T SKIMP ON THE HERBS, WHICH ADD A PUNCH OF GREEN TO BRIGHTEN THE ENSEMBLE.

Click here to download recipe

CIPOLLINI ARE LITTLE ITALIN ONIONS. THEY ARE NOT VERY DIFFERENT FROM LITTLE AMERICAN ONIONS, EXCEPT THEY ARE FLATTER IN SHAPE AND HAVE A MORE WOODSY TASTE. HERE, THEY ARE PEELED, THEN BROWNED IN FAT FROM THE PANCETTA AND CHICKEN. ADD A CUP OF WHITE WINE, POP IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MORE MINUTES AND SCATTER WITH FRESH TARRAGON. THE WHOLE THING SHOULDN’T TAKE YOU MORE THAN HALF AND HOUR, BUT IT YIELDS CHICKEN WHICH IS CRISP-SKINNED AND JUICY AND THOSE LITTLE ONIONS, FLAVORED WITH PANCETTA AND WHITE WINE. THE TARRAGON ADDS A ANISE-LIKE BITE AND A SCATTERING OF GREEN.
Click here to download recipe

NOTHING REMINDS ME MORE OF SPRING THAN SUGAR SNAP PEAS.  THEIR GREEN, BRIGHT FLAVOR STANDS ALONE, SO I TRY AND STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY, COOKING THEM BRIEFLY IN WATER AND BUTTER, THEN TOSSING THEM WITH BARELY SAUTÉED GREEN ONIONS OR, EVEN BETTER, GREEN GARLIC AND FRESH HERBS.  IN THIS CASE, TARRAGON.
Click here to download recipe

YOU CAN STEAM BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ROAST THEM, DEEP FRY THEM, SERVE THEM RAW AS A CAESAR SALAD, AND, IN THIS CASE, SEAR THEM IN A PAN, THEN ADD WATER AND A DASH OF LEMON JUICE AND COOK TILL THEY ARE TENDER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS RECIPE IS THAT SEARING THEM, EVEN CHARRING A FEW, CONTRIBUTES LAYERS OF FLAVOR TO THESE MINI CABBAGES.  THEY PAIR WELL WITH PRACTICALLY ANY HERB.  HERE, THEY’RE TOSSED WITH LEMON ZEST AND CHIVES, BUT PARSLEY, DILL OR BASIL WOULD DO EQUALLY WELL.
Click here to download recipe

WINTER WON’T LAST FOREVER.  THE SNOW WILL MELT ON THE EAST COAST AND THE RAINS WILL CEASE ON THE WEST.  SALADS, GRILLED MEAT AND FISH WILL REPLACE SOUPS AND STEWS.

THIS IS DEFINITELY A SPRING/SUMMER DISH, ALTHOUGH IN L.A. SEASONAL DISTINCTIONS DON’T COUNT FOR MUCH.

THE SECRET TO GRILLING OR PAN-COOKING TUNA IS TO FREEZE IT FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE COOKING.  THAT WAY THE OUTSIDE BROWNS BUT THE CENTER STAYS RARE.

THIS AIOLI RECIPE IS FROM DANIEL BOULUD AND CAN BE USED FOR MANY THINGS BESIDES THIS PARTICULAR DISH.

WITH THE ADDITION OF ROASTED FINGERLINGS AND ARUGULA, IT BECOMES A KIND OF SALDE NIÇOISE MANQUḖ.  IF YOU WANT TO GO FURTHER IN THAT DIRECTION, ADD HARICOTS VERTS AND WEDGES OF TOMATO, THOUGH YOU WON’T FIND ANY IN SEASON IN MARCH, EITHER HERE OR IN NEW YORK.

Click here to download recipe

I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT DAY WITH FRENCH BREAD AND A SALAD OF FRESHLY-PICKED LETTUCES FROM THE SCHOOL GARDEN. (more…)