CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

LAST WEEK THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION OF SORREL IN THE L.A.L.A. FARM. I TOOK A BUNCH HOME TO MAKE POTATO, LEEK AND SORREL SOUP, BUT THE REMAINDER I USED TO CREATE A CHICKEN DISH TO SHOW MY STUDENTS HOW THIS SOUR, GREEN LEAF IS SO DAZZLING IN A CREAMY SAUCE. MOST OF THEM HAD NEVER HEARD OF SORREL. WHEN THEY TASTED THE RAW LEAVES I COULD SEE THEIR SKEPTICISM. BUT WE PRESSED ON. I’M NOT ALLOWED TO COOK WITH WINE IN THE SCHOOL, SO I SUBSTITUTED CHICKEN STOCK, WHICH ACTUALLY GAVE THE SAUCE A BODY IT WOULDN’T HAVE HAD WITH JUST WHITE WINE. THE RECIPE WORKS WITH EITHER. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE FINISHED DISH TO THE TABLE, THE CHICKEN THIGHS SWIMMING IN CREAMY SAUCE LACED WITH SORREL, THE KIDS SOPPED UP EVERY LAST DROP.
Click here to download recipe

BACO DUCK
BACO DUCK

JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.

I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.

I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.

Click here to download recipe

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

USUALLY WHEN I COOK ZUCCHINI FOR PASTA, I BROWN IT IN OLIVE OIL, ADD GARLIC AND CHERRY TOMATOES AND TOSS IT WITH THE PASTA. HERE, THIN RIBBONS OF ZUCCHINI ARE MORE RAW THAN COOKED, TOSSED IN BUTTER, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON.
(more…)

BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS
BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT. (more…)

FRENCH POTATO SALAD
FRENCH POTATO SALAD

EVERYBODY’S GOT A RECIPE FOR POTATO SALAD.  SOME LIKE IT MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE OR TOSSED WITH ONIONS, RELISH OR CHOPPED PICKLES.  MY FAVORITE IS FRENCH POTATO SALAD OR A VERSION THEREOF.  NO MATTER THE VARIATION, THE ONE COMMON TECHNIQUE IS TO COOL OFF THE BOILED POTATO SLICES WITH COLD WHITE WINE, WHICH IS ABSORBED, LENDING THE POTATOES A LIGHTLY BOOZY FLAVOR.  MORE FLAVOR COMES FROM GRAINY MUSTARD, MUSTARD SEED AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF HAZELNUT OIL IN THE DRESSING.  I LOVE TARRAGON, BUT DILL OR PARSLEY WORK EQUALLY WELL.  THIS A SUMMERY ALTERNATIVE HOT POTATOES OR PASTA THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO EVERYTHING FROM GRILLED FISH TO HAMBURGERS.

Click here to download recipe

PURSLANE SALAD
PURSLANE SALAD

PURSLANE HAS GREY-GREEN, TEAR-SHAPED, SUCCULENT LEAVES, WHICH ARE CRUNCHY TO THE BITE, RELEASING A PLEASANTLY SOUR JUICE.  THEY ARE COMMON IN ARMENIAN AND LEBANESE RESTAURANTS, FOUND ALWAYS IN FATTOUSH SALAD.  I COMBINED THEM WITH OTHER MEDITERRANEAN INGREDIENTS — NICOISE OLIVES, FETA, TOMATOES, BASIL, FRESH MINT, AND PERSIAN CUCUMBERS.  RED ONION IS MACERATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IN SALT AND VINEGAR, WHICH TAMES ITS BITE BY THE TIME THE SALD IS TOSSED AND SERVED.  THIS IS A SUBSTANTIAL FIRST-COURSE SALAD OR A MAIN COURSE FOR A SUMMER LUNCH.  SERVE WITH WEDGES OF WARM PITA AND YOU’LL THINK YOU’RE IN BEIRUT.

Click here to download recipe

COD WITH MANILA CLAMS
COD WITH MANILA CLAMS

MANILA CLAMS ARE AMERICA’S ANSWER TO VONGOLE, THOSE SWEET LITTLE CLAMS YOU FIND ALL OVER ITALY AND MAKE SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE SO ENTICING. YOU CAN MAKE THE DISH WITH ANY SMALL MOLUSK, INCLUDING CHERRYSTONES OR MUSSELS. (more…)

PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH RICE, PASTA OR A CRUNCHY BAGUETTE TO SOP UP THE JUICES.
Click here to download recipe

STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC
STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC

HALIBUT IS NOT MY FAVORITE FISH. IT HAS A MILD TASTE AND IF NOT COOKED PERFECTLY, ITS RATHER DENSE FLESH TURNS TOUGH AND DRY. I’VE TRIED COOKING HALIBUT SLOWLY IN OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER. SOMETIMES I GET IT RIGHT, BUT OFTEN I DON’T. (more…)

SWORDFISH SICILIANA
SWORDFISH SICILIANA

IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE.  A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA!  SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS. (more…)

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

LAST WEEK THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION OF SORREL IN THE L.A.L.A. FARM. I TOOK A BUNCH HOME TO MAKE POTATO, LEEK AND SORREL SOUP, BUT THE REMAINDER I USED TO CREATE A CHICKEN DISH TO SHOW MY STUDENTS HOW THIS SOUR, GREEN LEAF IS SO DAZZLING IN A CREAMY SAUCE. MOST OF THEM HAD NEVER HEARD OF SORREL. WHEN THEY TASTED THE RAW LEAVES I COULD SEE THEIR SKEPTICISM. BUT WE PRESSED ON. I’M NOT ALLOWED TO COOK WITH WINE IN THE SCHOOL, SO I SUBSTITUTED CHICKEN STOCK, WHICH ACTUALLY GAVE THE SAUCE A BODY IT WOULDN’T HAVE HAD WITH JUST WHITE WINE. THE RECIPE WORKS WITH EITHER. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE FINISHED DISH TO THE TABLE, THE CHICKEN THIGHS SWIMMING IN CREAMY SAUCE LACED WITH SORREL, THE KIDS SOPPED UP EVERY LAST DROP.
Click here to download recipe

BACO DUCK
BACO DUCK

JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.

I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.

I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.

Click here to download recipe

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

USUALLY WHEN I COOK ZUCCHINI FOR PASTA, I BROWN IT IN OLIVE OIL, ADD GARLIC AND CHERRY TOMATOES AND TOSS IT WITH THE PASTA. HERE, THIN RIBBONS OF ZUCCHINI ARE MORE RAW THAN COOKED, TOSSED IN BUTTER, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON.
(more…)

BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS
BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT. (more…)

FRENCH POTATO SALAD
FRENCH POTATO SALAD

EVERYBODY’S GOT A RECIPE FOR POTATO SALAD.  SOME LIKE IT MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE OR TOSSED WITH ONIONS, RELISH OR CHOPPED PICKLES.  MY FAVORITE IS FRENCH POTATO SALAD OR A VERSION THEREOF.  NO MATTER THE VARIATION, THE ONE COMMON TECHNIQUE IS TO COOL OFF THE BOILED POTATO SLICES WITH COLD WHITE WINE, WHICH IS ABSORBED, LENDING THE POTATOES A LIGHTLY BOOZY FLAVOR.  MORE FLAVOR COMES FROM GRAINY MUSTARD, MUSTARD SEED AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF HAZELNUT OIL IN THE DRESSING.  I LOVE TARRAGON, BUT DILL OR PARSLEY WORK EQUALLY WELL.  THIS A SUMMERY ALTERNATIVE HOT POTATOES OR PASTA THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO EVERYTHING FROM GRILLED FISH TO HAMBURGERS.

Click here to download recipe

PURSLANE SALAD
PURSLANE SALAD

PURSLANE HAS GREY-GREEN, TEAR-SHAPED, SUCCULENT LEAVES, WHICH ARE CRUNCHY TO THE BITE, RELEASING A PLEASANTLY SOUR JUICE.  THEY ARE COMMON IN ARMENIAN AND LEBANESE RESTAURANTS, FOUND ALWAYS IN FATTOUSH SALAD.  I COMBINED THEM WITH OTHER MEDITERRANEAN INGREDIENTS — NICOISE OLIVES, FETA, TOMATOES, BASIL, FRESH MINT, AND PERSIAN CUCUMBERS.  RED ONION IS MACERATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IN SALT AND VINEGAR, WHICH TAMES ITS BITE BY THE TIME THE SALD IS TOSSED AND SERVED.  THIS IS A SUBSTANTIAL FIRST-COURSE SALAD OR A MAIN COURSE FOR A SUMMER LUNCH.  SERVE WITH WEDGES OF WARM PITA AND YOU’LL THINK YOU’RE IN BEIRUT.

Click here to download recipe

COD WITH MANILA CLAMS
COD WITH MANILA CLAMS

MANILA CLAMS ARE AMERICA’S ANSWER TO VONGOLE, THOSE SWEET LITTLE CLAMS YOU FIND ALL OVER ITALY AND MAKE SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE SO ENTICING. YOU CAN MAKE THE DISH WITH ANY SMALL MOLUSK, INCLUDING CHERRYSTONES OR MUSSELS. (more…)

PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH RICE, PASTA OR A CRUNCHY BAGUETTE TO SOP UP THE JUICES.
Click here to download recipe

STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC
STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC

HALIBUT IS NOT MY FAVORITE FISH. IT HAS A MILD TASTE AND IF NOT COOKED PERFECTLY, ITS RATHER DENSE FLESH TURNS TOUGH AND DRY. I’VE TRIED COOKING HALIBUT SLOWLY IN OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER. SOMETIMES I GET IT RIGHT, BUT OFTEN I DON’T. (more…)

SWORDFISH SICILIANA
SWORDFISH SICILIANA

IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE.  A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA!  SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS. (more…)

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

LAST WEEK THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION OF SORREL IN THE L.A.L.A. FARM. I TOOK A BUNCH HOME TO MAKE POTATO, LEEK AND SORREL SOUP, BUT THE REMAINDER I USED TO CREATE A CHICKEN DISH TO SHOW MY STUDENTS HOW THIS SOUR, GREEN LEAF IS SO DAZZLING IN A CREAMY SAUCE. MOST OF THEM HAD NEVER HEARD OF SORREL. WHEN THEY TASTED THE RAW LEAVES I COULD SEE THEIR SKEPTICISM. BUT WE PRESSED ON. I’M NOT ALLOWED TO COOK WITH WINE IN THE SCHOOL, SO I SUBSTITUTED CHICKEN STOCK, WHICH ACTUALLY GAVE THE SAUCE A BODY IT WOULDN’T HAVE HAD WITH JUST WHITE WINE. THE RECIPE WORKS WITH EITHER. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE FINISHED DISH TO THE TABLE, THE CHICKEN THIGHS SWIMMING IN CREAMY SAUCE LACED WITH SORREL, THE KIDS SOPPED UP EVERY LAST DROP.
Click here to download recipe

BACO DUCK
BACO DUCK

JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.

I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.

I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.

Click here to download recipe

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

USUALLY WHEN I COOK ZUCCHINI FOR PASTA, I BROWN IT IN OLIVE OIL, ADD GARLIC AND CHERRY TOMATOES AND TOSS IT WITH THE PASTA. HERE, THIN RIBBONS OF ZUCCHINI ARE MORE RAW THAN COOKED, TOSSED IN BUTTER, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON.
(more…)

BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS
BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT. (more…)

FRENCH POTATO SALAD
FRENCH POTATO SALAD

EVERYBODY’S GOT A RECIPE FOR POTATO SALAD.  SOME LIKE IT MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE OR TOSSED WITH ONIONS, RELISH OR CHOPPED PICKLES.  MY FAVORITE IS FRENCH POTATO SALAD OR A VERSION THEREOF.  NO MATTER THE VARIATION, THE ONE COMMON TECHNIQUE IS TO COOL OFF THE BOILED POTATO SLICES WITH COLD WHITE WINE, WHICH IS ABSORBED, LENDING THE POTATOES A LIGHTLY BOOZY FLAVOR.  MORE FLAVOR COMES FROM GRAINY MUSTARD, MUSTARD SEED AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF HAZELNUT OIL IN THE DRESSING.  I LOVE TARRAGON, BUT DILL OR PARSLEY WORK EQUALLY WELL.  THIS A SUMMERY ALTERNATIVE HOT POTATOES OR PASTA THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO EVERYTHING FROM GRILLED FISH TO HAMBURGERS.

Click here to download recipe

PURSLANE SALAD
PURSLANE SALAD

PURSLANE HAS GREY-GREEN, TEAR-SHAPED, SUCCULENT LEAVES, WHICH ARE CRUNCHY TO THE BITE, RELEASING A PLEASANTLY SOUR JUICE.  THEY ARE COMMON IN ARMENIAN AND LEBANESE RESTAURANTS, FOUND ALWAYS IN FATTOUSH SALAD.  I COMBINED THEM WITH OTHER MEDITERRANEAN INGREDIENTS — NICOISE OLIVES, FETA, TOMATOES, BASIL, FRESH MINT, AND PERSIAN CUCUMBERS.  RED ONION IS MACERATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IN SALT AND VINEGAR, WHICH TAMES ITS BITE BY THE TIME THE SALD IS TOSSED AND SERVED.  THIS IS A SUBSTANTIAL FIRST-COURSE SALAD OR A MAIN COURSE FOR A SUMMER LUNCH.  SERVE WITH WEDGES OF WARM PITA AND YOU’LL THINK YOU’RE IN BEIRUT.

Click here to download recipe

COD WITH MANILA CLAMS
COD WITH MANILA CLAMS

MANILA CLAMS ARE AMERICA’S ANSWER TO VONGOLE, THOSE SWEET LITTLE CLAMS YOU FIND ALL OVER ITALY AND MAKE SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE SO ENTICING. YOU CAN MAKE THE DISH WITH ANY SMALL MOLUSK, INCLUDING CHERRYSTONES OR MUSSELS. (more…)

PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH RICE, PASTA OR A CRUNCHY BAGUETTE TO SOP UP THE JUICES.
Click here to download recipe

STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC
STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC

HALIBUT IS NOT MY FAVORITE FISH. IT HAS A MILD TASTE AND IF NOT COOKED PERFECTLY, ITS RATHER DENSE FLESH TURNS TOUGH AND DRY. I’VE TRIED COOKING HALIBUT SLOWLY IN OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER. SOMETIMES I GET IT RIGHT, BUT OFTEN I DON’T. (more…)

SWORDFISH SICILIANA
SWORDFISH SICILIANA

IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE.  A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA!  SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS. (more…)

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

LAST WEEK THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION OF SORREL IN THE L.A.L.A. FARM. I TOOK A BUNCH HOME TO MAKE POTATO, LEEK AND SORREL SOUP, BUT THE REMAINDER I USED TO CREATE A CHICKEN DISH TO SHOW MY STUDENTS HOW THIS SOUR, GREEN LEAF IS SO DAZZLING IN A CREAMY SAUCE. MOST OF THEM HAD NEVER HEARD OF SORREL. WHEN THEY TASTED THE RAW LEAVES I COULD SEE THEIR SKEPTICISM. BUT WE PRESSED ON. I’M NOT ALLOWED TO COOK WITH WINE IN THE SCHOOL, SO I SUBSTITUTED CHICKEN STOCK, WHICH ACTUALLY GAVE THE SAUCE A BODY IT WOULDN’T HAVE HAD WITH JUST WHITE WINE. THE RECIPE WORKS WITH EITHER. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE FINISHED DISH TO THE TABLE, THE CHICKEN THIGHS SWIMMING IN CREAMY SAUCE LACED WITH SORREL, THE KIDS SOPPED UP EVERY LAST DROP.
Click here to download recipe

BACO DUCK
BACO DUCK

JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.

I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.

I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.

Click here to download recipe

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

USUALLY WHEN I COOK ZUCCHINI FOR PASTA, I BROWN IT IN OLIVE OIL, ADD GARLIC AND CHERRY TOMATOES AND TOSS IT WITH THE PASTA. HERE, THIN RIBBONS OF ZUCCHINI ARE MORE RAW THAN COOKED, TOSSED IN BUTTER, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON.
(more…)

BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS
BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT. (more…)

FRENCH POTATO SALAD
FRENCH POTATO SALAD

EVERYBODY’S GOT A RECIPE FOR POTATO SALAD.  SOME LIKE IT MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE OR TOSSED WITH ONIONS, RELISH OR CHOPPED PICKLES.  MY FAVORITE IS FRENCH POTATO SALAD OR A VERSION THEREOF.  NO MATTER THE VARIATION, THE ONE COMMON TECHNIQUE IS TO COOL OFF THE BOILED POTATO SLICES WITH COLD WHITE WINE, WHICH IS ABSORBED, LENDING THE POTATOES A LIGHTLY BOOZY FLAVOR.  MORE FLAVOR COMES FROM GRAINY MUSTARD, MUSTARD SEED AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF HAZELNUT OIL IN THE DRESSING.  I LOVE TARRAGON, BUT DILL OR PARSLEY WORK EQUALLY WELL.  THIS A SUMMERY ALTERNATIVE HOT POTATOES OR PASTA THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO EVERYTHING FROM GRILLED FISH TO HAMBURGERS.

Click here to download recipe

PURSLANE SALAD
PURSLANE SALAD

PURSLANE HAS GREY-GREEN, TEAR-SHAPED, SUCCULENT LEAVES, WHICH ARE CRUNCHY TO THE BITE, RELEASING A PLEASANTLY SOUR JUICE.  THEY ARE COMMON IN ARMENIAN AND LEBANESE RESTAURANTS, FOUND ALWAYS IN FATTOUSH SALAD.  I COMBINED THEM WITH OTHER MEDITERRANEAN INGREDIENTS — NICOISE OLIVES, FETA, TOMATOES, BASIL, FRESH MINT, AND PERSIAN CUCUMBERS.  RED ONION IS MACERATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IN SALT AND VINEGAR, WHICH TAMES ITS BITE BY THE TIME THE SALD IS TOSSED AND SERVED.  THIS IS A SUBSTANTIAL FIRST-COURSE SALAD OR A MAIN COURSE FOR A SUMMER LUNCH.  SERVE WITH WEDGES OF WARM PITA AND YOU’LL THINK YOU’RE IN BEIRUT.

Click here to download recipe

COD WITH MANILA CLAMS
COD WITH MANILA CLAMS

MANILA CLAMS ARE AMERICA’S ANSWER TO VONGOLE, THOSE SWEET LITTLE CLAMS YOU FIND ALL OVER ITALY AND MAKE SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE SO ENTICING. YOU CAN MAKE THE DISH WITH ANY SMALL MOLUSK, INCLUDING CHERRYSTONES OR MUSSELS. (more…)

PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH RICE, PASTA OR A CRUNCHY BAGUETTE TO SOP UP THE JUICES.
Click here to download recipe

STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC
STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC

HALIBUT IS NOT MY FAVORITE FISH. IT HAS A MILD TASTE AND IF NOT COOKED PERFECTLY, ITS RATHER DENSE FLESH TURNS TOUGH AND DRY. I’VE TRIED COOKING HALIBUT SLOWLY IN OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER. SOMETIMES I GET IT RIGHT, BUT OFTEN I DON’T. (more…)

SWORDFISH SICILIANA
SWORDFISH SICILIANA

IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE.  A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA!  SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS. (more…)

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

LAST WEEK THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION OF SORREL IN THE L.A.L.A. FARM. I TOOK A BUNCH HOME TO MAKE POTATO, LEEK AND SORREL SOUP, BUT THE REMAINDER I USED TO CREATE A CHICKEN DISH TO SHOW MY STUDENTS HOW THIS SOUR, GREEN LEAF IS SO DAZZLING IN A CREAMY SAUCE. MOST OF THEM HAD NEVER HEARD OF SORREL. WHEN THEY TASTED THE RAW LEAVES I COULD SEE THEIR SKEPTICISM. BUT WE PRESSED ON. I’M NOT ALLOWED TO COOK WITH WINE IN THE SCHOOL, SO I SUBSTITUTED CHICKEN STOCK, WHICH ACTUALLY GAVE THE SAUCE A BODY IT WOULDN’T HAVE HAD WITH JUST WHITE WINE. THE RECIPE WORKS WITH EITHER. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE FINISHED DISH TO THE TABLE, THE CHICKEN THIGHS SWIMMING IN CREAMY SAUCE LACED WITH SORREL, THE KIDS SOPPED UP EVERY LAST DROP.
Click here to download recipe

BACO DUCK
BACO DUCK

JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.

I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.

I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.

Click here to download recipe

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

USUALLY WHEN I COOK ZUCCHINI FOR PASTA, I BROWN IT IN OLIVE OIL, ADD GARLIC AND CHERRY TOMATOES AND TOSS IT WITH THE PASTA. HERE, THIN RIBBONS OF ZUCCHINI ARE MORE RAW THAN COOKED, TOSSED IN BUTTER, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON.
(more…)

BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS
BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT. (more…)

FRENCH POTATO SALAD
FRENCH POTATO SALAD

EVERYBODY’S GOT A RECIPE FOR POTATO SALAD.  SOME LIKE IT MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE OR TOSSED WITH ONIONS, RELISH OR CHOPPED PICKLES.  MY FAVORITE IS FRENCH POTATO SALAD OR A VERSION THEREOF.  NO MATTER THE VARIATION, THE ONE COMMON TECHNIQUE IS TO COOL OFF THE BOILED POTATO SLICES WITH COLD WHITE WINE, WHICH IS ABSORBED, LENDING THE POTATOES A LIGHTLY BOOZY FLAVOR.  MORE FLAVOR COMES FROM GRAINY MUSTARD, MUSTARD SEED AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF HAZELNUT OIL IN THE DRESSING.  I LOVE TARRAGON, BUT DILL OR PARSLEY WORK EQUALLY WELL.  THIS A SUMMERY ALTERNATIVE HOT POTATOES OR PASTA THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO EVERYTHING FROM GRILLED FISH TO HAMBURGERS.

Click here to download recipe

PURSLANE SALAD
PURSLANE SALAD

PURSLANE HAS GREY-GREEN, TEAR-SHAPED, SUCCULENT LEAVES, WHICH ARE CRUNCHY TO THE BITE, RELEASING A PLEASANTLY SOUR JUICE.  THEY ARE COMMON IN ARMENIAN AND LEBANESE RESTAURANTS, FOUND ALWAYS IN FATTOUSH SALAD.  I COMBINED THEM WITH OTHER MEDITERRANEAN INGREDIENTS — NICOISE OLIVES, FETA, TOMATOES, BASIL, FRESH MINT, AND PERSIAN CUCUMBERS.  RED ONION IS MACERATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IN SALT AND VINEGAR, WHICH TAMES ITS BITE BY THE TIME THE SALD IS TOSSED AND SERVED.  THIS IS A SUBSTANTIAL FIRST-COURSE SALAD OR A MAIN COURSE FOR A SUMMER LUNCH.  SERVE WITH WEDGES OF WARM PITA AND YOU’LL THINK YOU’RE IN BEIRUT.

Click here to download recipe

COD WITH MANILA CLAMS
COD WITH MANILA CLAMS

MANILA CLAMS ARE AMERICA’S ANSWER TO VONGOLE, THOSE SWEET LITTLE CLAMS YOU FIND ALL OVER ITALY AND MAKE SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE SO ENTICING. YOU CAN MAKE THE DISH WITH ANY SMALL MOLUSK, INCLUDING CHERRYSTONES OR MUSSELS. (more…)

PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH RICE, PASTA OR A CRUNCHY BAGUETTE TO SOP UP THE JUICES.
Click here to download recipe

STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC
STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC

HALIBUT IS NOT MY FAVORITE FISH. IT HAS A MILD TASTE AND IF NOT COOKED PERFECTLY, ITS RATHER DENSE FLESH TURNS TOUGH AND DRY. I’VE TRIED COOKING HALIBUT SLOWLY IN OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER. SOMETIMES I GET IT RIGHT, BUT OFTEN I DON’T. (more…)

SWORDFISH SICILIANA
SWORDFISH SICILIANA

IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE.  A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA!  SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS. (more…)

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

LAST WEEK THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION OF SORREL IN THE L.A.L.A. FARM. I TOOK A BUNCH HOME TO MAKE POTATO, LEEK AND SORREL SOUP, BUT THE REMAINDER I USED TO CREATE A CHICKEN DISH TO SHOW MY STUDENTS HOW THIS SOUR, GREEN LEAF IS SO DAZZLING IN A CREAMY SAUCE. MOST OF THEM HAD NEVER HEARD OF SORREL. WHEN THEY TASTED THE RAW LEAVES I COULD SEE THEIR SKEPTICISM. BUT WE PRESSED ON. I’M NOT ALLOWED TO COOK WITH WINE IN THE SCHOOL, SO I SUBSTITUTED CHICKEN STOCK, WHICH ACTUALLY GAVE THE SAUCE A BODY IT WOULDN’T HAVE HAD WITH JUST WHITE WINE. THE RECIPE WORKS WITH EITHER. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE FINISHED DISH TO THE TABLE, THE CHICKEN THIGHS SWIMMING IN CREAMY SAUCE LACED WITH SORREL, THE KIDS SOPPED UP EVERY LAST DROP.
Click here to download recipe

BACO DUCK
BACO DUCK

JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.

I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.

I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.

Click here to download recipe

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

USUALLY WHEN I COOK ZUCCHINI FOR PASTA, I BROWN IT IN OLIVE OIL, ADD GARLIC AND CHERRY TOMATOES AND TOSS IT WITH THE PASTA. HERE, THIN RIBBONS OF ZUCCHINI ARE MORE RAW THAN COOKED, TOSSED IN BUTTER, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON.
(more…)

BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS
BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT. (more…)

FRENCH POTATO SALAD
FRENCH POTATO SALAD

EVERYBODY’S GOT A RECIPE FOR POTATO SALAD.  SOME LIKE IT MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE OR TOSSED WITH ONIONS, RELISH OR CHOPPED PICKLES.  MY FAVORITE IS FRENCH POTATO SALAD OR A VERSION THEREOF.  NO MATTER THE VARIATION, THE ONE COMMON TECHNIQUE IS TO COOL OFF THE BOILED POTATO SLICES WITH COLD WHITE WINE, WHICH IS ABSORBED, LENDING THE POTATOES A LIGHTLY BOOZY FLAVOR.  MORE FLAVOR COMES FROM GRAINY MUSTARD, MUSTARD SEED AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF HAZELNUT OIL IN THE DRESSING.  I LOVE TARRAGON, BUT DILL OR PARSLEY WORK EQUALLY WELL.  THIS A SUMMERY ALTERNATIVE HOT POTATOES OR PASTA THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO EVERYTHING FROM GRILLED FISH TO HAMBURGERS.

Click here to download recipe

PURSLANE SALAD
PURSLANE SALAD

PURSLANE HAS GREY-GREEN, TEAR-SHAPED, SUCCULENT LEAVES, WHICH ARE CRUNCHY TO THE BITE, RELEASING A PLEASANTLY SOUR JUICE.  THEY ARE COMMON IN ARMENIAN AND LEBANESE RESTAURANTS, FOUND ALWAYS IN FATTOUSH SALAD.  I COMBINED THEM WITH OTHER MEDITERRANEAN INGREDIENTS — NICOISE OLIVES, FETA, TOMATOES, BASIL, FRESH MINT, AND PERSIAN CUCUMBERS.  RED ONION IS MACERATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IN SALT AND VINEGAR, WHICH TAMES ITS BITE BY THE TIME THE SALD IS TOSSED AND SERVED.  THIS IS A SUBSTANTIAL FIRST-COURSE SALAD OR A MAIN COURSE FOR A SUMMER LUNCH.  SERVE WITH WEDGES OF WARM PITA AND YOU’LL THINK YOU’RE IN BEIRUT.

Click here to download recipe

COD WITH MANILA CLAMS
COD WITH MANILA CLAMS

MANILA CLAMS ARE AMERICA’S ANSWER TO VONGOLE, THOSE SWEET LITTLE CLAMS YOU FIND ALL OVER ITALY AND MAKE SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE SO ENTICING. YOU CAN MAKE THE DISH WITH ANY SMALL MOLUSK, INCLUDING CHERRYSTONES OR MUSSELS. (more…)

PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH RICE, PASTA OR A CRUNCHY BAGUETTE TO SOP UP THE JUICES.
Click here to download recipe

STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC
STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC

HALIBUT IS NOT MY FAVORITE FISH. IT HAS A MILD TASTE AND IF NOT COOKED PERFECTLY, ITS RATHER DENSE FLESH TURNS TOUGH AND DRY. I’VE TRIED COOKING HALIBUT SLOWLY IN OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER. SOMETIMES I GET IT RIGHT, BUT OFTEN I DON’T. (more…)

SWORDFISH SICILIANA
SWORDFISH SICILIANA

IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE.  A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA!  SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS. (more…)

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

LAST WEEK THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION OF SORREL IN THE L.A.L.A. FARM. I TOOK A BUNCH HOME TO MAKE POTATO, LEEK AND SORREL SOUP, BUT THE REMAINDER I USED TO CREATE A CHICKEN DISH TO SHOW MY STUDENTS HOW THIS SOUR, GREEN LEAF IS SO DAZZLING IN A CREAMY SAUCE. MOST OF THEM HAD NEVER HEARD OF SORREL. WHEN THEY TASTED THE RAW LEAVES I COULD SEE THEIR SKEPTICISM. BUT WE PRESSED ON. I’M NOT ALLOWED TO COOK WITH WINE IN THE SCHOOL, SO I SUBSTITUTED CHICKEN STOCK, WHICH ACTUALLY GAVE THE SAUCE A BODY IT WOULDN’T HAVE HAD WITH JUST WHITE WINE. THE RECIPE WORKS WITH EITHER. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE FINISHED DISH TO THE TABLE, THE CHICKEN THIGHS SWIMMING IN CREAMY SAUCE LACED WITH SORREL, THE KIDS SOPPED UP EVERY LAST DROP.
Click here to download recipe

BACO DUCK
BACO DUCK

JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.

I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.

I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.

Click here to download recipe

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

USUALLY WHEN I COOK ZUCCHINI FOR PASTA, I BROWN IT IN OLIVE OIL, ADD GARLIC AND CHERRY TOMATOES AND TOSS IT WITH THE PASTA. HERE, THIN RIBBONS OF ZUCCHINI ARE MORE RAW THAN COOKED, TOSSED IN BUTTER, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON.
(more…)

BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS
BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT. (more…)

FRENCH POTATO SALAD
FRENCH POTATO SALAD

EVERYBODY’S GOT A RECIPE FOR POTATO SALAD.  SOME LIKE IT MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE OR TOSSED WITH ONIONS, RELISH OR CHOPPED PICKLES.  MY FAVORITE IS FRENCH POTATO SALAD OR A VERSION THEREOF.  NO MATTER THE VARIATION, THE ONE COMMON TECHNIQUE IS TO COOL OFF THE BOILED POTATO SLICES WITH COLD WHITE WINE, WHICH IS ABSORBED, LENDING THE POTATOES A LIGHTLY BOOZY FLAVOR.  MORE FLAVOR COMES FROM GRAINY MUSTARD, MUSTARD SEED AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF HAZELNUT OIL IN THE DRESSING.  I LOVE TARRAGON, BUT DILL OR PARSLEY WORK EQUALLY WELL.  THIS A SUMMERY ALTERNATIVE HOT POTATOES OR PASTA THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO EVERYTHING FROM GRILLED FISH TO HAMBURGERS.

Click here to download recipe

PURSLANE SALAD
PURSLANE SALAD

PURSLANE HAS GREY-GREEN, TEAR-SHAPED, SUCCULENT LEAVES, WHICH ARE CRUNCHY TO THE BITE, RELEASING A PLEASANTLY SOUR JUICE.  THEY ARE COMMON IN ARMENIAN AND LEBANESE RESTAURANTS, FOUND ALWAYS IN FATTOUSH SALAD.  I COMBINED THEM WITH OTHER MEDITERRANEAN INGREDIENTS — NICOISE OLIVES, FETA, TOMATOES, BASIL, FRESH MINT, AND PERSIAN CUCUMBERS.  RED ONION IS MACERATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IN SALT AND VINEGAR, WHICH TAMES ITS BITE BY THE TIME THE SALD IS TOSSED AND SERVED.  THIS IS A SUBSTANTIAL FIRST-COURSE SALAD OR A MAIN COURSE FOR A SUMMER LUNCH.  SERVE WITH WEDGES OF WARM PITA AND YOU’LL THINK YOU’RE IN BEIRUT.

Click here to download recipe

COD WITH MANILA CLAMS
COD WITH MANILA CLAMS

MANILA CLAMS ARE AMERICA’S ANSWER TO VONGOLE, THOSE SWEET LITTLE CLAMS YOU FIND ALL OVER ITALY AND MAKE SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE SO ENTICING. YOU CAN MAKE THE DISH WITH ANY SMALL MOLUSK, INCLUDING CHERRYSTONES OR MUSSELS. (more…)

PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH RICE, PASTA OR A CRUNCHY BAGUETTE TO SOP UP THE JUICES.
Click here to download recipe

STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC
STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC

HALIBUT IS NOT MY FAVORITE FISH. IT HAS A MILD TASTE AND IF NOT COOKED PERFECTLY, ITS RATHER DENSE FLESH TURNS TOUGH AND DRY. I’VE TRIED COOKING HALIBUT SLOWLY IN OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER. SOMETIMES I GET IT RIGHT, BUT OFTEN I DON’T. (more…)

SWORDFISH SICILIANA
SWORDFISH SICILIANA

IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE.  A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA!  SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS. (more…)

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

LAST WEEK THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION OF SORREL IN THE L.A.L.A. FARM. I TOOK A BUNCH HOME TO MAKE POTATO, LEEK AND SORREL SOUP, BUT THE REMAINDER I USED TO CREATE A CHICKEN DISH TO SHOW MY STUDENTS HOW THIS SOUR, GREEN LEAF IS SO DAZZLING IN A CREAMY SAUCE. MOST OF THEM HAD NEVER HEARD OF SORREL. WHEN THEY TASTED THE RAW LEAVES I COULD SEE THEIR SKEPTICISM. BUT WE PRESSED ON. I’M NOT ALLOWED TO COOK WITH WINE IN THE SCHOOL, SO I SUBSTITUTED CHICKEN STOCK, WHICH ACTUALLY GAVE THE SAUCE A BODY IT WOULDN’T HAVE HAD WITH JUST WHITE WINE. THE RECIPE WORKS WITH EITHER. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE FINISHED DISH TO THE TABLE, THE CHICKEN THIGHS SWIMMING IN CREAMY SAUCE LACED WITH SORREL, THE KIDS SOPPED UP EVERY LAST DROP.
Click here to download recipe

BACO DUCK
BACO DUCK

JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.

I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.

I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.

Click here to download recipe

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

USUALLY WHEN I COOK ZUCCHINI FOR PASTA, I BROWN IT IN OLIVE OIL, ADD GARLIC AND CHERRY TOMATOES AND TOSS IT WITH THE PASTA. HERE, THIN RIBBONS OF ZUCCHINI ARE MORE RAW THAN COOKED, TOSSED IN BUTTER, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON.
(more…)

BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS
BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT. (more…)

FRENCH POTATO SALAD
FRENCH POTATO SALAD

EVERYBODY’S GOT A RECIPE FOR POTATO SALAD.  SOME LIKE IT MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE OR TOSSED WITH ONIONS, RELISH OR CHOPPED PICKLES.  MY FAVORITE IS FRENCH POTATO SALAD OR A VERSION THEREOF.  NO MATTER THE VARIATION, THE ONE COMMON TECHNIQUE IS TO COOL OFF THE BOILED POTATO SLICES WITH COLD WHITE WINE, WHICH IS ABSORBED, LENDING THE POTATOES A LIGHTLY BOOZY FLAVOR.  MORE FLAVOR COMES FROM GRAINY MUSTARD, MUSTARD SEED AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF HAZELNUT OIL IN THE DRESSING.  I LOVE TARRAGON, BUT DILL OR PARSLEY WORK EQUALLY WELL.  THIS A SUMMERY ALTERNATIVE HOT POTATOES OR PASTA THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO EVERYTHING FROM GRILLED FISH TO HAMBURGERS.

Click here to download recipe

PURSLANE SALAD
PURSLANE SALAD

PURSLANE HAS GREY-GREEN, TEAR-SHAPED, SUCCULENT LEAVES, WHICH ARE CRUNCHY TO THE BITE, RELEASING A PLEASANTLY SOUR JUICE.  THEY ARE COMMON IN ARMENIAN AND LEBANESE RESTAURANTS, FOUND ALWAYS IN FATTOUSH SALAD.  I COMBINED THEM WITH OTHER MEDITERRANEAN INGREDIENTS — NICOISE OLIVES, FETA, TOMATOES, BASIL, FRESH MINT, AND PERSIAN CUCUMBERS.  RED ONION IS MACERATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IN SALT AND VINEGAR, WHICH TAMES ITS BITE BY THE TIME THE SALD IS TOSSED AND SERVED.  THIS IS A SUBSTANTIAL FIRST-COURSE SALAD OR A MAIN COURSE FOR A SUMMER LUNCH.  SERVE WITH WEDGES OF WARM PITA AND YOU’LL THINK YOU’RE IN BEIRUT.

Click here to download recipe

COD WITH MANILA CLAMS
COD WITH MANILA CLAMS

MANILA CLAMS ARE AMERICA’S ANSWER TO VONGOLE, THOSE SWEET LITTLE CLAMS YOU FIND ALL OVER ITALY AND MAKE SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE SO ENTICING. YOU CAN MAKE THE DISH WITH ANY SMALL MOLUSK, INCLUDING CHERRYSTONES OR MUSSELS. (more…)

PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH RICE, PASTA OR A CRUNCHY BAGUETTE TO SOP UP THE JUICES.
Click here to download recipe

STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC
STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC

HALIBUT IS NOT MY FAVORITE FISH. IT HAS A MILD TASTE AND IF NOT COOKED PERFECTLY, ITS RATHER DENSE FLESH TURNS TOUGH AND DRY. I’VE TRIED COOKING HALIBUT SLOWLY IN OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER. SOMETIMES I GET IT RIGHT, BUT OFTEN I DON’T. (more…)

SWORDFISH SICILIANA
SWORDFISH SICILIANA

IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE.  A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA!  SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS. (more…)

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

LAST WEEK THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION OF SORREL IN THE L.A.L.A. FARM. I TOOK A BUNCH HOME TO MAKE POTATO, LEEK AND SORREL SOUP, BUT THE REMAINDER I USED TO CREATE A CHICKEN DISH TO SHOW MY STUDENTS HOW THIS SOUR, GREEN LEAF IS SO DAZZLING IN A CREAMY SAUCE. MOST OF THEM HAD NEVER HEARD OF SORREL. WHEN THEY TASTED THE RAW LEAVES I COULD SEE THEIR SKEPTICISM. BUT WE PRESSED ON. I’M NOT ALLOWED TO COOK WITH WINE IN THE SCHOOL, SO I SUBSTITUTED CHICKEN STOCK, WHICH ACTUALLY GAVE THE SAUCE A BODY IT WOULDN’T HAVE HAD WITH JUST WHITE WINE. THE RECIPE WORKS WITH EITHER. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE FINISHED DISH TO THE TABLE, THE CHICKEN THIGHS SWIMMING IN CREAMY SAUCE LACED WITH SORREL, THE KIDS SOPPED UP EVERY LAST DROP.
Click here to download recipe

BACO DUCK
BACO DUCK

JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.

I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.

I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.

Click here to download recipe

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

USUALLY WHEN I COOK ZUCCHINI FOR PASTA, I BROWN IT IN OLIVE OIL, ADD GARLIC AND CHERRY TOMATOES AND TOSS IT WITH THE PASTA. HERE, THIN RIBBONS OF ZUCCHINI ARE MORE RAW THAN COOKED, TOSSED IN BUTTER, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON.
(more…)

BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS
BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT. (more…)

FRENCH POTATO SALAD
FRENCH POTATO SALAD

EVERYBODY’S GOT A RECIPE FOR POTATO SALAD.  SOME LIKE IT MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE OR TOSSED WITH ONIONS, RELISH OR CHOPPED PICKLES.  MY FAVORITE IS FRENCH POTATO SALAD OR A VERSION THEREOF.  NO MATTER THE VARIATION, THE ONE COMMON TECHNIQUE IS TO COOL OFF THE BOILED POTATO SLICES WITH COLD WHITE WINE, WHICH IS ABSORBED, LENDING THE POTATOES A LIGHTLY BOOZY FLAVOR.  MORE FLAVOR COMES FROM GRAINY MUSTARD, MUSTARD SEED AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF HAZELNUT OIL IN THE DRESSING.  I LOVE TARRAGON, BUT DILL OR PARSLEY WORK EQUALLY WELL.  THIS A SUMMERY ALTERNATIVE HOT POTATOES OR PASTA THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO EVERYTHING FROM GRILLED FISH TO HAMBURGERS.

Click here to download recipe

PURSLANE SALAD
PURSLANE SALAD

PURSLANE HAS GREY-GREEN, TEAR-SHAPED, SUCCULENT LEAVES, WHICH ARE CRUNCHY TO THE BITE, RELEASING A PLEASANTLY SOUR JUICE.  THEY ARE COMMON IN ARMENIAN AND LEBANESE RESTAURANTS, FOUND ALWAYS IN FATTOUSH SALAD.  I COMBINED THEM WITH OTHER MEDITERRANEAN INGREDIENTS — NICOISE OLIVES, FETA, TOMATOES, BASIL, FRESH MINT, AND PERSIAN CUCUMBERS.  RED ONION IS MACERATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IN SALT AND VINEGAR, WHICH TAMES ITS BITE BY THE TIME THE SALD IS TOSSED AND SERVED.  THIS IS A SUBSTANTIAL FIRST-COURSE SALAD OR A MAIN COURSE FOR A SUMMER LUNCH.  SERVE WITH WEDGES OF WARM PITA AND YOU’LL THINK YOU’RE IN BEIRUT.

Click here to download recipe

COD WITH MANILA CLAMS
COD WITH MANILA CLAMS

MANILA CLAMS ARE AMERICA’S ANSWER TO VONGOLE, THOSE SWEET LITTLE CLAMS YOU FIND ALL OVER ITALY AND MAKE SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE SO ENTICING. YOU CAN MAKE THE DISH WITH ANY SMALL MOLUSK, INCLUDING CHERRYSTONES OR MUSSELS. (more…)

PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH RICE, PASTA OR A CRUNCHY BAGUETTE TO SOP UP THE JUICES.
Click here to download recipe

STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC
STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC

HALIBUT IS NOT MY FAVORITE FISH. IT HAS A MILD TASTE AND IF NOT COOKED PERFECTLY, ITS RATHER DENSE FLESH TURNS TOUGH AND DRY. I’VE TRIED COOKING HALIBUT SLOWLY IN OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER. SOMETIMES I GET IT RIGHT, BUT OFTEN I DON’T. (more…)

SWORDFISH SICILIANA
SWORDFISH SICILIANA

IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE.  A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA!  SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS. (more…)

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

LAST WEEK THERE WAS AN EXPLOSION OF SORREL IN THE L.A.L.A. FARM. I TOOK A BUNCH HOME TO MAKE POTATO, LEEK AND SORREL SOUP, BUT THE REMAINDER I USED TO CREATE A CHICKEN DISH TO SHOW MY STUDENTS HOW THIS SOUR, GREEN LEAF IS SO DAZZLING IN A CREAMY SAUCE. MOST OF THEM HAD NEVER HEARD OF SORREL. WHEN THEY TASTED THE RAW LEAVES I COULD SEE THEIR SKEPTICISM. BUT WE PRESSED ON. I’M NOT ALLOWED TO COOK WITH WINE IN THE SCHOOL, SO I SUBSTITUTED CHICKEN STOCK, WHICH ACTUALLY GAVE THE SAUCE A BODY IT WOULDN’T HAVE HAD WITH JUST WHITE WINE. THE RECIPE WORKS WITH EITHER. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE FINISHED DISH TO THE TABLE, THE CHICKEN THIGHS SWIMMING IN CREAMY SAUCE LACED WITH SORREL, THE KIDS SOPPED UP EVERY LAST DROP.
Click here to download recipe

BACO DUCK
BACO DUCK

JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.

I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.

THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.

I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.

Click here to download recipe

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

USUALLY WHEN I COOK ZUCCHINI FOR PASTA, I BROWN IT IN OLIVE OIL, ADD GARLIC AND CHERRY TOMATOES AND TOSS IT WITH THE PASTA. HERE, THIN RIBBONS OF ZUCCHINI ARE MORE RAW THAN COOKED, TOSSED IN BUTTER, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON.
(more…)

BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS
BEER BRAISED COUNTRY STYLE PORK RIBS

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT. (more…)

FRENCH POTATO SALAD
FRENCH POTATO SALAD

EVERYBODY’S GOT A RECIPE FOR POTATO SALAD.  SOME LIKE IT MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE OR TOSSED WITH ONIONS, RELISH OR CHOPPED PICKLES.  MY FAVORITE IS FRENCH POTATO SALAD OR A VERSION THEREOF.  NO MATTER THE VARIATION, THE ONE COMMON TECHNIQUE IS TO COOL OFF THE BOILED POTATO SLICES WITH COLD WHITE WINE, WHICH IS ABSORBED, LENDING THE POTATOES A LIGHTLY BOOZY FLAVOR.  MORE FLAVOR COMES FROM GRAINY MUSTARD, MUSTARD SEED AND A FEW TABLESPOONS OF HAZELNUT OIL IN THE DRESSING.  I LOVE TARRAGON, BUT DILL OR PARSLEY WORK EQUALLY WELL.  THIS A SUMMERY ALTERNATIVE HOT POTATOES OR PASTA THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO EVERYTHING FROM GRILLED FISH TO HAMBURGERS.

Click here to download recipe

PURSLANE SALAD
PURSLANE SALAD

PURSLANE HAS GREY-GREEN, TEAR-SHAPED, SUCCULENT LEAVES, WHICH ARE CRUNCHY TO THE BITE, RELEASING A PLEASANTLY SOUR JUICE.  THEY ARE COMMON IN ARMENIAN AND LEBANESE RESTAURANTS, FOUND ALWAYS IN FATTOUSH SALAD.  I COMBINED THEM WITH OTHER MEDITERRANEAN INGREDIENTS — NICOISE OLIVES, FETA, TOMATOES, BASIL, FRESH MINT, AND PERSIAN CUCUMBERS.  RED ONION IS MACERATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IN SALT AND VINEGAR, WHICH TAMES ITS BITE BY THE TIME THE SALD IS TOSSED AND SERVED.  THIS IS A SUBSTANTIAL FIRST-COURSE SALAD OR A MAIN COURSE FOR A SUMMER LUNCH.  SERVE WITH WEDGES OF WARM PITA AND YOU’LL THINK YOU’RE IN BEIRUT.

Click here to download recipe

COD WITH MANILA CLAMS
COD WITH MANILA CLAMS

MANILA CLAMS ARE AMERICA’S ANSWER TO VONGOLE, THOSE SWEET LITTLE CLAMS YOU FIND ALL OVER ITALY AND MAKE SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE SO ENTICING. YOU CAN MAKE THE DISH WITH ANY SMALL MOLUSK, INCLUDING CHERRYSTONES OR MUSSELS. (more…)

PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH RICE, PASTA OR A CRUNCHY BAGUETTE TO SOP UP THE JUICES.
Click here to download recipe

STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC
STEAMED HALIBUT WITH SAFFRON BUERRE BLANC

HALIBUT IS NOT MY FAVORITE FISH. IT HAS A MILD TASTE AND IF NOT COOKED PERFECTLY, ITS RATHER DENSE FLESH TURNS TOUGH AND DRY. I’VE TRIED COOKING HALIBUT SLOWLY IN OLIVE OIL OR MELTED BUTTER. SOMETIMES I GET IT RIGHT, BUT OFTEN I DON’T. (more…)

SWORDFISH SICILIANA
SWORDFISH SICILIANA

IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE.  A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA!  SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS. (more…)

This Week’s Meal

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE

BROWSE BY TYPE

RECENT RECIPES

  • CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE CHICKEN WITH SORREL CREAM SAUCE
  • BACO DUCK BACO DUCK
  • PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

BATTERIE DE CUISINE

People often ask me about kitchen equipment, something I've been collecting (and giving away) for over forty years.

My mother made good with Reynold's Ware and some Le Creuset casseroles. In those days, there was a clear distinction between equipment for the home cook and professional chef.

Fred Bridge changed all that. Fred was a former Army cook who opened a cookware store for pros when he got out of the service. In the early Sixties, Fred, who didn't think much of domestic chefs, almost all of whom were women, opened his shop a couple of days a week, and only for a few hours a day, to us amateurs.

Wandering into his store in Turtle Bay (it later moved to the east 52nd) was, for me, a version of food porn. Copper sautoirs, carbon steel chefs knives, stainless steel stock pots, and every conceivable gadget or kitchen tool filled the shelves, hung from the ceiling and lay hidden in wooden drawers. Fred knew the stock number of every item and would shout out, "Jose, get me an 1127 and a dozen 962s!" and a frightened stock boy would dash off to fill the order.

Despite his gruffness, Fred was intrigued by me, a 23-year-old kid interested in serious cooking. He got even friendlier when I stocked my sister's kitchen as a wedding present.

After the success of the Cuisinart, which was just a professional Robot Coupe reconfigured for home use; plus the popularity of Industrial Chic, a number of companies began making restaurant equipment for home cooks.

Another important innovation was copper and aluminum sandwiches married to stainless steel pans. Stainless is bullet-proof and easy to maintain, but it's a terrible conductor of heat. Before that the best pots were tin-lined copper with cast iron handles. I lugged a set home from Paris sometime in the Eighties. They are beautiful and wonderful to cook with, but expensive to maintain, since once the tin wears down, they have to be re-lined and that costs more than what I paid for them in the first place.

When I was in KNOT'S LANDING, I made friends with a product-placement rep, who hung around the set, trying to place Toshiba microwaves and Black and Decker toaster ovens in the kitchen scenes. She represented Cuisinart cookware, so I asked her if I used those pans in the scenes where I was cooking if I could get a few cookware. To make a long story short, I wound up with a full set of Cuisinart cookware: sauce pans, frying pans, stockpots, and knives. I'm still using my Cuisnart pots and my original Cuisnart food processor, which my mom gave me in 1965.

As a brand, Cuisinart has been eclipsed by All-Clad, Calphalon, Demeyere, Mauviel, and a score of others. (William Sonoma carries 28 brands of cookware, but not Cuisinart).

I have a few All-Clad pans, a fantastic Sitram roundel, two excellent round-bottomed saucepans by Paderno, a set of Le Creuset au gratin dishes, and Lodge cast iron skillets in diameters ranging from six to twelve inches. Nothing beats cast iron for searing a steak, roasting potatoes or a whole chicken. Nor have I found a competitor for Le Creuset. They last forever.

Recently, I stocked the kitchen for my class at the L.A. Leadership Academy. I went to Amazon. It was just after the holidays, so everything was on sale. Still, when I compared the sale prices for practically every high-end brand, nothing came close to Cuisinart's prices. I bought a full set of pots and pans for less than I would have paid for two All-Clad frying pans. And I've been cooking with those Cuisinart pans in class, so I can attest to their quality, which seems not to have flagged in thirty years.

Knives? Who can resist a beautiful knife? I recently paid a fortune for a few Japanese-made knives designed by Michel Bras. I love working with them, but, frankly, you can do just as well with inexpensive knives from Forschner with composite handles. They're lightweight, easily sharpened and when they wear down in five years, you can replace them for a lot less than you'll pay for expensive knives.

What else? Well, I love my immersion blender and my moulis, which can't be beat for mashed potatoes or tomato soup. Wooden spoons, natch. A large colander, strainers, few heat-resistant silicone scrapers, a good box grater, Good Grips peelers, a microplane, and a wooden citrus reamer.

I have lots of stainless steel bowls; six small ones for my mis-en-place. When you're making a complicated dish or making a last minute sauce, it's great to have your ingredients sliced and diced and ready to go.

Lynn, who's a serious baker, swears by her Hobart K5A standing mixer.

Whatever you buy, and if you're starting off, you can get by with a few saucepans, frying pans, one casserole, a stockpot, and a limited set of knives, spend the money or high-quality equipment, which will last you a lifetime. They are the best investment you'll ever make. Most important, good kitchen equipment makes cooking a pleasure.