LAMB KIDNEYS DIABLE

IF OFFAL ISN'T YOUR CUP OF TEA, SKIP THIS RECIPE.  BUT IF YOU'RE LIKE ME AND LOVE ALL MANNER OF INNARDS -- KIDNEYS, SWEETBREADS, LIVER, TRIPE, BRAINS -- DIG IN.  LAMB KIDNEYS HAVE A STRONGER TASTE THAN THEIR MILDER COUSINS, VEAL KIDNEYS.  BUT THAT IS EASY TO TAME BY SOAKING THEM FOR SEVERAL HOURS IN BUTTERMILK.  THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE IS CLASSICALLY FRENCH.  YOU'LL FIND ROGNONS AU DIABLE (MEANING WITH MUSTARD) IN BISTROS ALL OVER FRANCE.  I USE TWO KINDS OF MUSTARD AND TEMPER THE HEAT WITH A FEW TABLESPOONS OF CRÉME FRAÎCHE.  KIDNEYS GO WELL OVER RICE OR ORZO WITH A GREEN VEGETABLE SUCH AS STRING BEANS, BRUSSELS SPROUTS OR, IN THIS CASE, BROCCOLINI.  IT'S A COZY WINTER DISH BEST CONSUMED WITH A GLASS OF CÔTES DU RHONE.

 46 LAMB KIDNEYS (2/PERSON)
 1 qt BUTTERMILK
 2 LARGE SHALLOTS
 ½ cup WHITE WINE
 2 tbsp DIJON MUSTARD
 2 tbsp GRAINY MUSTARD
 ½ cup CRÉME FRAÎCHE
 FRESH TARRAGON OR PARSLEY

1

SOAK THE KIDNEYS FOR AT LEAST 4 HOURS OR OVERNIGHT IN BUTTERMILK.

DISCARD BUTTERMILK, RINSE OFF KIDNEYS AND DRY BETWEEN SEVERAL LAYERS OF PAPER TOWELS.

HEAT A FRYING PAN FOR 2 MINUTES OVER HIGH HEAT. ADD A FEW TBSPS OF OLIVE OIL TO THE PAN. SEASON KIDNEYS WITH SALT AND PEPPER. BROWN ON BOTH SIDES, ABOUT 3 MINUTES A SIDE. REDUCE HEAT AND COOK A MINUTE OR SO MORE OR UNTIL THE KIDNEYS ARE SPRINGY LIKE A MEDIUM RARE STEAK. REMOVE TO A PLATE.

MEANWHILE, TRIM, PEEL AND DICE SHALLOTS. WHEN YOU'VE REMOVED THE KIDNEYS, ADD 3 TBSPS OF BUTTER TO THE PAN ALONG WITH THE SHALLOTS. COOK OVER LOW HEAT, STIRRING UNTIL THE SHALLOTS ARE TRANSLUCENT.

ADD THE WINE AND REDUCE BY HALF, SCRAPING UP THE BROWNED BITS IN THE PAN WITH A WOODEN SPOON.

STIR IN THE MUSTARDS, THEN THE CRÉME FRAÎCHE. SIMMER ON A LOW FLAME WHILE YOU SLICE THE KIDNEYS CROSSWISE IN 1/4-INCH PIECES. ADD KIDNEYS AND JUICES TO THE PAN. STIR TO COAT AND RE-HEAT.

SPOON KIDNEYS ONTO A SERVING PLATTER. SCATTER WITH FRESHLY-CHOPPED TARRAGON OR PARSLEY.

SERVES 2-4

Ingredients

 46 LAMB KIDNEYS (2/PERSON)
 1 qt BUTTERMILK
 2 LARGE SHALLOTS
 ½ cup WHITE WINE
 2 tbsp DIJON MUSTARD
 2 tbsp GRAINY MUSTARD
 ½ cup CRÉME FRAÎCHE
 FRESH TARRAGON OR PARSLEY

Directions

1

SOAK THE KIDNEYS FOR AT LEAST 4 HOURS OR OVERNIGHT IN BUTTERMILK.

DISCARD BUTTERMILK, RINSE OFF KIDNEYS AND DRY BETWEEN SEVERAL LAYERS OF PAPER TOWELS.

HEAT A FRYING PAN FOR 2 MINUTES OVER HIGH HEAT. ADD A FEW TBSPS OF OLIVE OIL TO THE PAN. SEASON KIDNEYS WITH SALT AND PEPPER. BROWN ON BOTH SIDES, ABOUT 3 MINUTES A SIDE. REDUCE HEAT AND COOK A MINUTE OR SO MORE OR UNTIL THE KIDNEYS ARE SPRINGY LIKE A MEDIUM RARE STEAK. REMOVE TO A PLATE.

MEANWHILE, TRIM, PEEL AND DICE SHALLOTS. WHEN YOU'VE REMOVED THE KIDNEYS, ADD 3 TBSPS OF BUTTER TO THE PAN ALONG WITH THE SHALLOTS. COOK OVER LOW HEAT, STIRRING UNTIL THE SHALLOTS ARE TRANSLUCENT.

ADD THE WINE AND REDUCE BY HALF, SCRAPING UP THE BROWNED BITS IN THE PAN WITH A WOODEN SPOON.

STIR IN THE MUSTARDS, THEN THE CRÉME FRAÎCHE. SIMMER ON A LOW FLAME WHILE YOU SLICE THE KIDNEYS CROSSWISE IN 1/4-INCH PIECES. ADD KIDNEYS AND JUICES TO THE PAN. STIR TO COAT AND RE-HEAT.

SPOON KIDNEYS ONTO A SERVING PLATTER. SCATTER WITH FRESHLY-CHOPPED TARRAGON OR PARSLEY.

SERVES 2-4

LAMB KIDNEYS DIABLE
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