Name: ROBUCHON’S POTATO PURÉE
Ingredients: YUKON GOLD OR RUSSIAN FINGERLING POTATOES; 1 cup WHOLE MILK; BUTTER IN A RATIO OF 1 BUTTER TO 4 POTATO (FIGURE 1/2 LB POTATOES/PERSON ); CHIVES

LIKE THE SAUMON À L'OSEILLE FROM TROISGROS OR MICHEL BRAS' MOLTEN CHOCOLATE CAKE, JOËL ROBUCHON'S VERSION OF MASHED POTATOES HAS BECOME A CLASSIC. IT SHARES CERTAIN CHARACTERISTICS FROM MODERN FRENCH MASTERS -- FEW INGREDIENTS OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY, BASIC TECHNIQUES AND UNFUSSY PRESENTATION. SO ON ITS FACE, ROBUCHON'S RECIPE IS JUST MASHED POTATOES WITH LOTS OF BUTTER. BUT APPEARANCES CAN BE DECEIVING. THE POTATOES ARE BOILED, THEN COOLED JUST ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE SKINS, RUN THROUGH A FOOD MILL (A MOULI) INTO A SAUCEPAN, WHERE THEY ARE BLENDED WITH BOILED MILK . THE FINAL STEP IS STIRRING IN PIECES OF BUTTER IN A FOUR-TO-ONE RATIO, WHICH PRODUCES A SILKEN PURÉE. THE PROBLEM FOR THE HOME COOK IS THAT IF YOU'RE SERVING THEM TO A LARGE GROUP (SIX OR MORE), IT'S A LOT OF LABOR TO DO AT THE LAST MINUTE WHEN YOU'RE ATTENDING TO MORE THAN ONE DISH. THIS YEAR, HOWEVER, WHEN I WAS MAKING THEM FOR TWELVE AT THANKSGIVING, I REALIZED THAT I COULD DO EVERYTHING BUT THE FINAL BUTTER INCORPORATION AHEAD OF TIME. YOU'LL STILL NEED PLENTY OF ELBOW GREASE BEFORE YOU SET THEM DOWN ON THE TABLE, BUT YOU'LL BE REWARDED WITH WELL-EARNED OOHS AND AAHS.

YUKON GOLD OR RUSSIAN FINGERLING POTATOES

1 cup WHOLE MILK

BUTTER IN A RATIO OF 1 BUTTER TO 4 POTATO (FIGURE 1/2 LB POTATOES/PERSON )

CHIVES

COVER THE POTATOES WITH WATER BY AN INCH. BRING TO A BOIL. SALT. SIMMER UNTIL THE POTATOES ARE EASILY PIERCED WITH A SHARP KNIFE.

DRAIN IN A COLANDER AND ALLOW TO COOL ENOUGH TO PEEL.

CUT POTATOES ROUGHLY. FIT YOUR FOOD MILL WITH THE NEXT TO FINEST DISC SET OVER A HEAVY-BOTTOMED SAUCEPAN.

CUT THE BUTTER INTO SMALL CHUNKS ON A DINNER PLATE AND REFRIGERATE TILL READY TO USE.

WHEN READY TO FINISH, TAKE THE BUTTER FROM THE FRIDGE.

RINSE A SMALL SAUCEPAN WITH WATER. DO NOT DRY. ADD A CUP OF WHOLE MILK AND BRING TO A SIMMER.

MEANWHILE, HEAT THE POT WITH THE POTATOES AND STIR ON A LOW HEAT WITH A WOODEN SPOON TO DRY THEM OUT.

STIR IN THE SCALDED MILK.

REDUCE THE HEAT TO LOW AND BEGIN STIRRING IN THE BUTTER, A FEW PIECES AT A TIME UNTIL ALL THE BUTTER IS INCORPORATED INTO THE POTATOES. TASTE FOR SEASONING. SEASON WITH SALT AND FRESH GROUND WHITE PEPPER.

GARNISH WITH CHOPPED CHIVES OR FRESH TARRAGON.

HOW MANY POTATOES? THIS IS EASIER TO EYEBALL THAN WEIGH. WHEN BUYING THE POTATOES, FIGURE HOW MANY POTATOES EACH PERSON CAN EAT, DEPENDING ON THE SIZE OF THE POTATOES.

Ingredients