THROUGHOUT THE PANDEMIC I'VE COME TO RELY ALMOST ENTIRELY ON THE SUNDAY FARMERS' MARKET FOR MY WEEKLY SHOPPING; NOT JUST FRUITS AND VEGETABLES BUT FOR BEEF, LAMB AND PORK. PEADS AND BARNETTS, WHOSE PROVENANCE DATES BACK TO 1950 IN OXFORD, ENGLAND, RAISE THEIR BERKSHIRE PIGS THE SAME WAY THEIR GRANDPARENTS DID -- FREE RANGE WITH NO HORMONES AND NOTHING BUT ORGANIC FEED. I'VE FALLEN IN LOVE WITH CUTS LIKE SECRETO AND COLLAR CHOPS. THE CHOPS ARE VEINED WITH FAT WHICH KEEPS THEM FROM DRYING OUT IN THE COOKING. FOR THIS RECIPE I COOK THEM TILL ALMOST DONE ON TOP OF THE STOVE, THEN MAKE A SIMPLE SAUCE WITH SPRING ONIONS, A LITTLE GARLIC, WHITE WINE, CRÉME FRAÎCHE AND MUSTARD. THE CHOPS ARE RETURNED TO THE PAN, WHERE THEY'RE BASTED IN THE SAUCE AND, IN THIS CASE, SERVED WITH THYME-ROASTED POTATOES AND BROCCOLI RABE.
NOTE: IF YOU CAN'T FIND COLLAR CHOPS, WHICH YOU PROBABLY CAN'T, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE RIB CHOPS OR SHOULDER CHOPS. SHOULDER CHOPS ARE LESS TENDER, BUT MORE FLAVORFUL. IF USING RIB CHOPS, BE CAREFUL NOT TO COOK THEM MUCH PAST MEDIUM RARE OR THEY WILL BE TOUGH AND DRY.
DRY THE CHOPS WITH PAPER TOWELS. SALT AND PEPPER.
HEAT A CAST IRON PAN ON A MEDIUM FLAME FOR 2 MINUTES.
ADD A SPLASH OF VEGETABLE OIL TO THE PAN. BROWN THE CHOPS FOR ABOUT THREE MINUTES ON EACH SIDE OR UNTIL THE FIRST DROPLETS OF BLOOD APPEAR ON THE SURFACE OF THE MEAT.
MEANWHILE, TRIM AND MINCE THE GREEN ONIONS. TRIM AND SLICE GARLIC CLOVES THINLY.
WHEN THE CHOPS ARE DONE, REMOVE TO A PLATE.
ADD 2 TBSPS OF BUTTER TO THE PAN, REDUCE THE HEAT TO LOW AND ADD ONIONS AND GARLIC. COOK FOR A MINUTE, STIRRING WITH A WOODEN SPOON TILL THEY'RE TRANSLUCENT BUT NOT BROWNED.
POUR IN THE WHITE WINE AND RAISE THE HEAT. "DEGLAZE' THE PAN BY SCRAPING UP THE BROWNED BITS WITH YOUR WOODEN SPOON.
WHEN THE WINE HAS REDUCED TO ABOUT 1/4 CUP, ADD THE MUSTARD AND CRÉME FRAÎCHE.
CONTINUE TO STIR AND REDUCE THE SAUCE TILL IT IS CREAMY.
REDUCE THE HEAT TO A SIMMER. RETURN THE CHOPS TO THE PAN AND BASTE FOR A MINUTE OR TWO.
SERVES 4
Ingredients
Directions
DRY THE CHOPS WITH PAPER TOWELS. SALT AND PEPPER.
HEAT A CAST IRON PAN ON A MEDIUM FLAME FOR 2 MINUTES.
ADD A SPLASH OF VEGETABLE OIL TO THE PAN. BROWN THE CHOPS FOR ABOUT THREE MINUTES ON EACH SIDE OR UNTIL THE FIRST DROPLETS OF BLOOD APPEAR ON THE SURFACE OF THE MEAT.
MEANWHILE, TRIM AND MINCE THE GREEN ONIONS. TRIM AND SLICE GARLIC CLOVES THINLY.
WHEN THE CHOPS ARE DONE, REMOVE TO A PLATE.
ADD 2 TBSPS OF BUTTER TO THE PAN, REDUCE THE HEAT TO LOW AND ADD ONIONS AND GARLIC. COOK FOR A MINUTE, STIRRING WITH A WOODEN SPOON TILL THEY'RE TRANSLUCENT BUT NOT BROWNED.
POUR IN THE WHITE WINE AND RAISE THE HEAT. "DEGLAZE' THE PAN BY SCRAPING UP THE BROWNED BITS WITH YOUR WOODEN SPOON.
WHEN THE WINE HAS REDUCED TO ABOUT 1/4 CUP, ADD THE MUSTARD AND CRÉME FRAÎCHE.
CONTINUE TO STIR AND REDUCE THE SAUCE TILL IT IS CREAMY.
REDUCE THE HEAT TO A SIMMER. RETURN THE CHOPS TO THE PAN AND BASTE FOR A MINUTE OR TWO.
SERVES 4
Notes
