FISH, AS YOU MAY HAVE NOTICED, HAS GOTTEN MORE EXPENSIVE. THE RISE IN PRICES IS NOT QUITE AS DRAMATIC AS WITH BEEF (I WAS CONSIDERING A RIB ROAST FOR THE HOLIDAYS TILL I NOTED THE PRICE TAG AT GELSON'S-- $50/LB!). JUST AS I SEARCH FOR CHEAPER AND MORE FLAVORFUL CUTS OF MEAT -- HANGER STEAK, LAMB NECK, PORK COLLAR -- I'M ALWAYS ON THE LOOKOUT FOR LESS EXPENSIVE FISH. HALIBUT, TUNA, SCALLOPS, STRIPED OR BLACK BASS, EVEN COD SELLS FOR $30/LB+ AT McCALL'S AND I RELUCTANTLY PAY THOSE PRICES BECAUSE THE QUALITY IS UNMATCHED IN L.A. SO IMAGINE MY SURPRISE AND DELIGHT TO SPOT WHOLE SKATE WINGS IN THE DISPLAY CASE. SKATE IS CHEAP BECAUSE MOST PEOPLE ARE UNFAMILIAR WITH SKATE AND AFRAID TO COOK IT. IT IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE FISH. THE FLESH IS WHITE, FIRM AND SWEET. MOST FISHMONGERS FILLET THE WINGS, REMOVING THE CARTILAGINOUS SKELETON, IN WHICH CASE I PAN FRY IT. BUT BONE, WHETHER WITH MEAT OR FISH, ENRICHES THE TASTE OF THE FLESH. IN THE CASE OF SKATE, PAN ROASTING IT COULDN'T BE SIMPLER. AND UNLIKE OTHER FISH, SKATE, ONCE COOKED, IS A BREEZE TO FILLET, LEAVING BEHIND PRISTINE, DELICATE AND SUCCULENT FLESH WITH NARY A PIN BONE TO PICK FROM YOUR TEETH. THE SIMPLEST WAY TO COOK A WHOLE SKATE WING IS TO BASTE IT IN CLARIFIED BUTTER ON TOP OF THE STOVE WITH A SPRIG OR TWO OF THYME. NOTHING COULD BE EASIER TO MAKE NOR MORE DELICIOUS TO EAT. TRUST ME.
MELT A STICK OF BUTTER IN A SMALL FRYING PAN. POUR THE MELTED BUTTER INTO A MEASURING CUP AND ALLOW TO SIT. AFTER A FEW MINUTES, THE MILKY SOLIDS WILL SEPARATE OUT. SKIM FROM THE SURFACE. KEEP WARM UNTIL READY TO COOK.
DRY THE SKATE WING THOROUGHLY WITH PAPER TOWELS. SALT AND PEPPER.
HEAT A FRYING PAN FOR TWO MINUTES OVER MEDIUM HEAT.
POUR IN HALF OF THE CLARIFIED BUTTER, LEAVING THE MILKY SOLIDS UNDISTURBED ON THE BOTTOM OF THE MEASURING CUP.
WHEN THE BUTTER IS VERY HOT, LAY IN THE SKATE WING, SHAKING THE PAN TO KEEP IT FROM STICKING. AFTER ABOUT 30 SECONDS THERE SHOULD BE ENOUGH OF A SEAR SO IT WILL SLIDE EASILY AROUND THE PAN.
TOSS IN THE THYME AND IMMEDIATELY START BASTING THE FISH WITH THE BUTTER. COOK FOR ABOUT 6 MINUTES. ADD THE REST OF THE CLARIFIED BUTTE. CAREFULLY TURN THE SKATE WING OVER, AGAIN SHAKING THE PAN TILL IT NO LONGER STICKS. CONTINUE BASTING FOR ANOTHER 3 MINUTES OR UNTIL A SHARP KNIFE INSERTED IN THE THICKEST PART OF THE SKATE WING FEELS WARM WHEN TOUCHED TO YOUR BOTTOM LIP.
CUT IN HALF AND DIVIDE ONTO TWO WARMED DINNER PLATES. GARNISH WITH LEMON WEDGES.
SERVES 2
NOTE: AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE PICTURE, I SERVED THE SKATE WITH LITTLE RED NEW POTATOES, WHICH I'D STEAMED TILL TENDER, THEN ADDED TO THE PAN WITH THE SKATE FOR THE LAST FEW MINUTES OF COOKING.
Ingredients
Directions
MELT A STICK OF BUTTER IN A SMALL FRYING PAN. POUR THE MELTED BUTTER INTO A MEASURING CUP AND ALLOW TO SIT. AFTER A FEW MINUTES, THE MILKY SOLIDS WILL SEPARATE OUT. SKIM FROM THE SURFACE. KEEP WARM UNTIL READY TO COOK.
DRY THE SKATE WING THOROUGHLY WITH PAPER TOWELS. SALT AND PEPPER.
HEAT A FRYING PAN FOR TWO MINUTES OVER MEDIUM HEAT.
POUR IN HALF OF THE CLARIFIED BUTTER, LEAVING THE MILKY SOLIDS UNDISTURBED ON THE BOTTOM OF THE MEASURING CUP.
WHEN THE BUTTER IS VERY HOT, LAY IN THE SKATE WING, SHAKING THE PAN TO KEEP IT FROM STICKING. AFTER ABOUT 30 SECONDS THERE SHOULD BE ENOUGH OF A SEAR SO IT WILL SLIDE EASILY AROUND THE PAN.
TOSS IN THE THYME AND IMMEDIATELY START BASTING THE FISH WITH THE BUTTER. COOK FOR ABOUT 6 MINUTES. ADD THE REST OF THE CLARIFIED BUTTE. CAREFULLY TURN THE SKATE WING OVER, AGAIN SHAKING THE PAN TILL IT NO LONGER STICKS. CONTINUE BASTING FOR ANOTHER 3 MINUTES OR UNTIL A SHARP KNIFE INSERTED IN THE THICKEST PART OF THE SKATE WING FEELS WARM WHEN TOUCHED TO YOUR BOTTOM LIP.
CUT IN HALF AND DIVIDE ONTO TWO WARMED DINNER PLATES. GARNISH WITH LEMON WEDGES.
SERVES 2
NOTE: AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE PICTURE, I SERVED THE SKATE WITH LITTLE RED NEW POTATOES, WHICH I'D STEAMED TILL TENDER, THEN ADDED TO THE PAN WITH THE SKATE FOR THE LAST FEW MINUTES OF COOKING.
Notes
