THERE'S NO SPICE QUITE LIKE SAFFRON. THE TASTE IS UNIQUE AND ALSO EXPENSIVE, THOUGH MUCH LESS SO IF YOU BUY IT IN QUANTITY. SAFFRON, THE DRIED STIGMAS OF THE SAFFRON CROCUS, WEIGHS PRACTICALLY NOTHING, SO A TEN OR TWENTY GRAM TIN WILL LAST YOU A LONG TIME. I USE IT TO FLAVOR RICE PILAF. IT'S AN INDISPENSABLE INGREDIENT IN RISOTTO MILANESE AND BOUILLABAISSE. BUT A PINCH WILL ALSO ENLIVEN LAMB STEW, BRIGHTEN HOLLANDAISE OR A BUERRE BLANC. AND IT'S KEY TO THIS SIMPLE RECIPE FOR PAN-COOKED CHICKEN. PAIRED WITH TOMATOES, ONIONS, AND GARLIC, IT MOST CLOSELY RESEMBLES A BOUILLABAISSE. DREDGING THE CHICKEN PIECES IN FLOUR BEFORE BROWNING WON'T GIVE YOU A CRUNCHIER SKIN BUT WILL THICKEN THE SAUCE AND PROLONG THE LINGERING SCENT OF THIS MOST ROYAL OF SPICES.
SEASON THE CHICKEN PIECES WITH SALT AND PEPPER.
HEAT 1/3 OF A CUP OF VEGETABLE OIL IN A LARGE STEEP-SIDED PAN WITH A LID.
PUT HALF A CUP OF FLOUR IN A PAPER BAG. DROP IN THE CHICKEN PIECES A FEW AT A TIME. SHAKE THE BAG.
SHAKE OFF EXCESS FLOUR WHEN YOU REMOVE THEM FROM THE BAG AND LAY SKIN SIDE DOWN IN THE PAN. DON'T CROWD THEM. BROWN ON BOTH SIDES.
MEANWHILE, PEEL AND MINCE THE ONION. PEEL AND THINLY SLICE THE GARLIC CLOVES.
ONCE THE CHICKEN PIECES ARE BROWNED, POUR OFF MOST OF THE FAT. ADD 2TBSPS OF BUTTER, THEN STIR IN THE VEGETABLES. REDUCE THE HEAT TO LOW. COVER. COOK FOR A MINUTE OR TWO TO SOFTEN.
ARRANGE THE CHICKEN PIECES IN THE PAN, IDEALLY IN ONE LAYER.
GRIND THE SAFFRON TO A POWDER WITH A PINCH OF COURSE SALT IN THE MORTAR AND PESTLE. POUR IN THE WHITE WINE TO DISSOLVE THE SAFFRON, THEN POUR IN WITH THE CHICKEN. ALLOW WINE TO REDUCE BY HALF.
CRUSH THE TOMATOES WITH YOUR HANDS IN A BOWL.
POUR THE CHICKEN STOCK INTO THE MORTAR TO RINSE OUT ANY REMAINING SAFFRON, THEN ADD TO THE CHICKEN. ADD THE TOMATOES.
PEEL THE SKIN OFF HALF THE ORANGE. SLICE INTO THIN STRIPS AND ADD TO THE POT.
COVER THE POT AND SIMMER FOR ABOUT 15 MINUTES OR UNTIL THE JUICE RUNS CLEAR ON THE THIGHS WHEN PIERCED WITH A SHARP KNIFE.
GARNISH WITH CHOPPED PARSLEY OR CHIVES.
SERVES 4-6
Ingredients
Directions
SEASON THE CHICKEN PIECES WITH SALT AND PEPPER.
HEAT 1/3 OF A CUP OF VEGETABLE OIL IN A LARGE STEEP-SIDED PAN WITH A LID.
PUT HALF A CUP OF FLOUR IN A PAPER BAG. DROP IN THE CHICKEN PIECES A FEW AT A TIME. SHAKE THE BAG.
SHAKE OFF EXCESS FLOUR WHEN YOU REMOVE THEM FROM THE BAG AND LAY SKIN SIDE DOWN IN THE PAN. DON'T CROWD THEM. BROWN ON BOTH SIDES.
MEANWHILE, PEEL AND MINCE THE ONION. PEEL AND THINLY SLICE THE GARLIC CLOVES.
ONCE THE CHICKEN PIECES ARE BROWNED, POUR OFF MOST OF THE FAT. ADD 2TBSPS OF BUTTER, THEN STIR IN THE VEGETABLES. REDUCE THE HEAT TO LOW. COVER. COOK FOR A MINUTE OR TWO TO SOFTEN.
ARRANGE THE CHICKEN PIECES IN THE PAN, IDEALLY IN ONE LAYER.
GRIND THE SAFFRON TO A POWDER WITH A PINCH OF COURSE SALT IN THE MORTAR AND PESTLE. POUR IN THE WHITE WINE TO DISSOLVE THE SAFFRON, THEN POUR IN WITH THE CHICKEN. ALLOW WINE TO REDUCE BY HALF.
CRUSH THE TOMATOES WITH YOUR HANDS IN A BOWL.
POUR THE CHICKEN STOCK INTO THE MORTAR TO RINSE OUT ANY REMAINING SAFFRON, THEN ADD TO THE CHICKEN. ADD THE TOMATOES.
PEEL THE SKIN OFF HALF THE ORANGE. SLICE INTO THIN STRIPS AND ADD TO THE POT.
COVER THE POT AND SIMMER FOR ABOUT 15 MINUTES OR UNTIL THE JUICE RUNS CLEAR ON THE THIGHS WHEN PIERCED WITH A SHARP KNIFE.
GARNISH WITH CHOPPED PARSLEY OR CHIVES.
SERVES 4-6