LOU WINE SHOP
ALTHOUGH A CUM LAUDE GRADUATE OF BROWN UNIVERSITY WITH HONORS IN ENGLISH, I HAD NEVER ENCOUNTERED THE WORD “AUTOCHTHONOUS” UNTIL I READ LOU AMDUR’S DESCRIPTION OF THE FRAPPATO [Read More]
MABEL’S BOUILLABAISSE
ON MY FIRST TRIP TO PARIS IN 1961, MY AUNT MABEL JOINED ME FOR TWO WEEKS. MABEL HAD LIVED IN PARIS FROM 1922 TO 1928. SHE HAD HOBNOBBED [Read More]
VEGAN FEAST: AN ODE TO SARAH
CALL IT A MOMENTARY LAPSE OR AN ODE TO MY NIECE SARAH, A VEGAN AND ALSO AN EXCELLENT COOK, BUT WITH SO MANY GREAT VEGETABLES AROUND AND DETERMINED [Read More]
GAMBAS AL AJILLO
I ONLY TWEAKED THIS EASY AND DELICIOUS SHRIMP RECIPE BY PAULA WOLFERT FROM MEDITERRANEAN COOKING. THE TECHNIQUE INTRIGUED ME: YOU COOK DOWN CHOPPED ONIONS, OLIVE OIL AND WATER [Read More]
LITTLE GEMS WITH CHEVRE DRESSING
THE INVENTION OF THIS DRESSING WAS SERENDIPITY. IN A REFRIGERATOR DRAWER, BURIED UNDER PACKAGES OF BUTTER, PARMESAN WRAPPED IN CHEESE CLOTH, AND A HUNK OF SLAB BACON, I [Read More]
BURRATA WITH TOMATOES AND PEACHES
WHEREVER YOU LIVE, IT’S NOT SUMMER TILL THE FARMER’S MARKETS ARE BURSTING WITH RIPE PEACHES AND TOMATOES. TOMATOES ARE ACTUALLY A FRUIT, BUT EVEN IF YOU INSIST ON [Read More]
CHERCHE MIDI
KEITH McNALLY IS SURELY NEW YORK’S MOST SUCCESSFUL OFF BROADWAY PRODUCER. BALTHAZAAR, WHICH OPENED ON SPRING STREET IN 1997, HAS BEEN PLAYING TO PACKED HOUSES EVER SINCE. THE [Read More]
GRILLED LEG OF LAMB WITH MUSTARD COATING
I’VE BEEN MAKING VERSIONS OF THIS DISH FOR YEARS. YOU GET YOUR BUTCHER TO DE-BONE A LEG OF LAMB, MARINATE IT AND EITHER GRILL IT OUTDOORS OR BROIL [Read More]
BRODETTO
THIS RECIPE, WHICH I ADAPTED FROM COLEMAN ANDREWS HANDSOME TOME, “THE COUNTRY COOKING OF ITALY”, IS A FISH STEW FOR PEOPLE WHO DON’T LIKE FISH STEW. FOR EXAMPLE, [Read More]
BRAISED DUCK
LONG ISLAND OR PEKIN DUCK, THE DUCK YOU BUY IN CHINATOWN OR WHOLE FOODS, CAN BE TOUGH, PARTICULARLY IF YOU LIKE IT ROASTED ON THE PINK SIDE. ANOTHER [Read More]
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