I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL.  FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY FARMING, AND SECOND, BECAUSE FREE-RANGE VEAL– THE KIND YOU GET IN EUROPE– IS ALMOST AS RARE HERE AS IT IS EXPENSIVE.  

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY […]

I TEACH A COOKING CLASS ONE DAY A WEEK AT THE L.A. LEADERSHIP ACADEMY, A CHARTER SCHOOL IN LINCOLN HEIGHTS WITH A WORKING FARM. MOST OF THE TIME, WE MAKE DISHES WHICH CAN BE PREPARED IN AN HOUR, BUT ONCE A YEAR WE TACKLE BOEUF BOURGUIGNON. WE LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT,THEN EAT IT THE NEXT […]

THIS YEAR INSTEAD OF PRIME RIB, I DECIDED TO SERVE RACK OF COLORADO LAMB.  LIKE NEW ZEALAND OR, EVEN BETTER, ICELANDIC LAMB, COLORADO LAMB IS MILD BUT FLAVORFUL.  A MUSTARD AND HERB COATING AND A THIN LAYER OF BREADCRUMBS FRAMES THE PINK SUCCULENCE OF THE MEAT.  I SERVED THE LAMB WITH BROCCOLINI WITH HOLLANDAISE AND BAKED […]

TRI-TIP IS THE LOWER PART OF THE SIRLOIN, LEANER BUT EQUALLY FLAVORFUL AND CONSIDERABLY CHEAPER.  PAN-COOKED, WITH A CLASSIC FRENCH MUSHROOM AND RED WINE SAUCE, FLAVORED WITH THYME, TARRAGON, PARSLEY, AND CHIVES, IT’S SIMPLE TO MAKE AND GREAT WITH A MORE TIME-CONSUMING DISH SUCH AS POTATOES GRATIN.  BUT YOU COULD ALSO MAKE IT WITH ROASTED […]

I SPOTTED A CUT IN THE BUTCHER’S CASE LABELLED “COUNTRY STYLE BONELESS PORK RIBS”.  THEY WERE THICK AND MEATY WITH LITTLE FAT BUT PLENTY OF CONNECTIVE TISSUE; AN IDEAL BRAISING CUT.

PORK BELLY IS WHAT BACON IS BEFORE IT IS CURED.  IF ALL THAT FAT SEENS DAUNTING, YOU’LL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH OF IT MELTS OFF IN THE COOKING, LEAVING A RICH AND SUCCULENT SQUARE OF PORK. BRAISED WITH FENNEL, LEEKS AND FEW STAR ANISE FOR SEASONING, PORK BELLY IS NOTHING SHORT OF DELICIOUS.  SERVE WITH […]

MY FATHER, WHOSE DOCTOR’S OFFICE WAS ON FIFTH AVENUE, WOULD PRAY FOR RAIN ON ST. PATRICK’S DAY.  OUR GENERATION HAS A MORE BENIGN ATTITUDE TOWARDS THE IRISH.  SO FOR ST. PATRICK’S DAY DINNER WITH TWO GUESTS OF IRISH EXTRACTION AT OUR TABLE, MY WIFE, WHOSE FAMILY MADE CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE FOR THANKSGIVING, URGED ME […]

FRANCIS LAM RECENTLY PUBLISHED A LOVELY RECIPE IN THE N.Y. TIMES FOR CHICKEN À NORMANDE, WHICH SHE’D GOTTEN FROM A COVEN OF EX-PATRIOT FRENCH LADIES WHO LIVE IN COBBLE HILL.

THIS IS AN EASY DISH TO MAKE, EITHER AHEAD OF TIME OR AT THE LAST MINUTE, FOR PARTY OF TWO OR A PARTY.  SINCE THE PRIME INGREDIENT IS ITALIAN SAUSAGE, MAKE SURE YOU GET THE BEST YOU CAN FIND.  (I BOUGHT MINE AT McCALL’S)