EACH WINTER I AWAIT THE ARRIVAL OF ICELANDIC COD, WHICH ALONG WITH SKATE AND TURBOT, IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE FISH. THE THICK-FLAKED WHITE FLESH IS SWEET AND BRINEY. COD IS MORE FORGIVING THAN HALIBUT OR SWORDFISH, WHICH DRY OUT AND TOUGHEN IF EVEN SLIGHTLY OVER-COOKED. I USUALLY PAN COOK COD, SKIN SIDE DOWN, BASTING IT WITH BROWN BUTTER. BUT RECALLING FISH STEAMED IN CABBAGE AT SENDERANS' L'ARCHESTRA IN PARIS, I DECIDE TO DO THE SAME CHEZ MOI. THE GREEN CABBAGE LEAVES ARE QUICKLY BOILED TILL MALLEABLE, SO THEY WRAP EASILY AROUND THE THICK FILLETS. SEPARATELY, I COOKED JAPANESE TURNIPS AND CARROTS. IF YOU'RE LOOKING TO LOSE WEIGHT, YOU COULD STOP HERE. BUT WHO CAN RESIST HOLLANDAISE?
BRING A LARGE POT OF WATER TO A BOIL. FILL YOUR SINK WITH COLD WATER.
SEPARATE FOUR LARGE CABBAGE LEAVES. TRIM OUT THE TOUGH FLESH NEAR THE BASE. DROP THE LEAVES IN THE BOILING WATER AND BOIL FOR AROUND 30 SECONDS OR UNTIL THEY ARE MALLEABLE. REMOVE FROM POT AND DROP THEM IN THE SINK OF COLD WATER. ALLOW TO COOL, THEN LIFT THEM OUT AND LAY OUT ON A KITCHEN TOWEL.
PLACE A PIECE OF COD IN THE CENTER OF EACH CABBAGE LEAF AND FOLD OVER TO MAKE A TIDY PACKET. PLACE IN THE TOP OF A STEAMER. (I USE A COLLAPSABLE STEAMER WHICH FITS INTO ANY LARGE SAUCEPAN.). FILL THE SAUCEPAN WITH ABOUT 2 INCHES OF WATER. COVER.
TRIM THE TURNIPS, LEAVING A BIT OF THE STEM. CUT LENGTHWISE IN HALF. PEEL AND CUT THE CARROTS IN 3-INCH PIECES. PLACE IN A PAN WITH 2 INCHES OF WATER, SALT AND 3 TBSPS OF BUTTER. BRING TO A BOIL, REDUCE TO A SIMMER. COVER AND COOK 6-8 MINUTES OR UNTIL THE VEGETABLES ARE EASILY PIERCED WITH A SHARP KNIFE.
BRING THE WATER IN THE STEAMER TO A BOIL, REDUCE TO A SIMMER. COVER. STEAM THE FISH FOR 6-8 MINUTES OR UNTIL A SHARP KNIFE INSERTED IN THE CENTER FEELS WARM WHEN TOUCHED TO YOUR BOTTOM LIP.
PLATE THE COD, SURROUNDED WITH VEGETABLES AND NAP GENEROUSLY WITH HOLLANDAISE.
SERVES 4
MELT THE BUTTER AND POUR INTO A GLASS MEASURING CUP WITH A SPOUT. WHEN THE BUTTER COOLS, SKIM OFF THE BUTTER FAT WHICH HAS RISEN TO THE TOP.
SEPARATE TWO EGGS AND PLACE THE YOLKS IN A DOUBLE BOILER. BEAT THE YOLKS WITH SALT, WHITE PEPPER AND THE JUICE OF HALF A LEMON. DOT THE TOP WITH 2 TBSPS OF BUTTER CUT INTO SMALL PIECES.
WHEN THE FISH IS DONE, BRING THE WATER IN THE DOUBLE BOILER TO A SIMMER. FIT ON THE TOP AND BEAT WITH A WHISK, OCCASIONALLY TESTING THE HEAT WITH YOUR HAND. YOU WANT THE MIXTURE TO THICKEN BUT NOT COOK.
REMOVE FROM THE HEAT AND GRADUALLY WHISK IN THE MELTED BUTTER. TASTE AND ADD MORE LEMON JUICE OR SALT IF NECESSARY.
Ingredients
Directions
BRING A LARGE POT OF WATER TO A BOIL. FILL YOUR SINK WITH COLD WATER.
SEPARATE FOUR LARGE CABBAGE LEAVES. TRIM OUT THE TOUGH FLESH NEAR THE BASE. DROP THE LEAVES IN THE BOILING WATER AND BOIL FOR AROUND 30 SECONDS OR UNTIL THEY ARE MALLEABLE. REMOVE FROM POT AND DROP THEM IN THE SINK OF COLD WATER. ALLOW TO COOL, THEN LIFT THEM OUT AND LAY OUT ON A KITCHEN TOWEL.
PLACE A PIECE OF COD IN THE CENTER OF EACH CABBAGE LEAF AND FOLD OVER TO MAKE A TIDY PACKET. PLACE IN THE TOP OF A STEAMER. (I USE A COLLAPSABLE STEAMER WHICH FITS INTO ANY LARGE SAUCEPAN.). FILL THE SAUCEPAN WITH ABOUT 2 INCHES OF WATER. COVER.
TRIM THE TURNIPS, LEAVING A BIT OF THE STEM. CUT LENGTHWISE IN HALF. PEEL AND CUT THE CARROTS IN 3-INCH PIECES. PLACE IN A PAN WITH 2 INCHES OF WATER, SALT AND 3 TBSPS OF BUTTER. BRING TO A BOIL, REDUCE TO A SIMMER. COVER AND COOK 6-8 MINUTES OR UNTIL THE VEGETABLES ARE EASILY PIERCED WITH A SHARP KNIFE.
BRING THE WATER IN THE STEAMER TO A BOIL, REDUCE TO A SIMMER. COVER. STEAM THE FISH FOR 6-8 MINUTES OR UNTIL A SHARP KNIFE INSERTED IN THE CENTER FEELS WARM WHEN TOUCHED TO YOUR BOTTOM LIP.
PLATE THE COD, SURROUNDED WITH VEGETABLES AND NAP GENEROUSLY WITH HOLLANDAISE.
SERVES 4
MELT THE BUTTER AND POUR INTO A GLASS MEASURING CUP WITH A SPOUT. WHEN THE BUTTER COOLS, SKIM OFF THE BUTTER FAT WHICH HAS RISEN TO THE TOP.
SEPARATE TWO EGGS AND PLACE THE YOLKS IN A DOUBLE BOILER. BEAT THE YOLKS WITH SALT, WHITE PEPPER AND THE JUICE OF HALF A LEMON. DOT THE TOP WITH 2 TBSPS OF BUTTER CUT INTO SMALL PIECES.
WHEN THE FISH IS DONE, BRING THE WATER IN THE DOUBLE BOILER TO A SIMMER. FIT ON THE TOP AND BEAT WITH A WHISK, OCCASIONALLY TESTING THE HEAT WITH YOUR HAND. YOU WANT THE MIXTURE TO THICKEN BUT NOT COOK.
REMOVE FROM THE HEAT AND GRADUALLY WHISK IN THE MELTED BUTTER. TASTE AND ADD MORE LEMON JUICE OR SALT IF NECESSARY.
Notes
