SHEEPHEAD AND ROMANESCO WITH CAPER BROWN BUTTER

RELAX.  THIS IS NOT A RECIPE FOR AN ACTUAL SHEEP HEAD, AN ALARMING DISH I SOMETIMES ATE AT A GREEK RESTAURANT CALLED MOLFETA'S ON 8TH AVENUE.  THE SHEEP HEAD FISH, A NATIVE TO CALIFORNIA WATERS, IS SO CALLED BECAUSE ITS HEAD LOOKS LIKE A SHEEP.  IT'S WHITE-FLESHED, FLAKEY WITH A SUGGESTION OF CRAB.  OCCASIONALLY, I POACH FISH OR ROAST WHOLE FISH, BUT MOST OF THE TIME, I PAN-COOK FILLETS, WHICH AT McCALL'S, ARE CONVENIENTLY CUT INTO RESTAURANT-SIZED PORTIONS WITH SKIN ON ONE SIDE.  THIS IS MOST HELPFUL BECAUSE IT KEEPS THE FISH FROM STICKING TO THE PAN AND SEALS IN ITS FLAVOR.  HALFWAY THROUGH THE COOKING. I ADD A HUNK OF BUTTER AND ALTERNATELY BASTE AND COVER UNTIL IT'S DONE.  WHAT'S LEFT IN THE PAN I TURN INTO A SAUCE; IN THIS CASE A BROWNED BUTTER SAUCE WITH CAPERS.  THERE ARE A MYRIAD OF SAUCES YOU CAN CREATE USING THE SAME BASIC TECHNIQUE.  ADDING CAPERS, LEMON JUICE AND WHITE WINE MADE IT A PERFECT MATCH FOR ROMANESCO, CAULIFLOWER'S MORE GLAMOROUS COUSIN, ALTHOUGH I HEARD A NASTY RUMOR THAT SHE'S MOE CLOSELY RELATED TO BROCCOLI.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/sheephead-and-romanesco-with-caper-brown-butter/

 2 SHEEPHEAD CENTER CUT FILLETS
 3 cups ROMANESCO FLORETS
 3 tbsp CAPERS, PREFERABLY DRIED, SALT-PACKED
 2 LEMONS
 DRY WHITE WINE
1

USING A SMALL KNIFE CUT THE FLORETS FROM THE CENTRAL STALK OF THE ROMANESCO. PLACE IN THE TOP OF A STEAMER. BRING THE WATER IN THE POT TO A SIMMER, BUT DON'T START COOKING THE ROMANESCO.

PUT 3 TBSPS OF CAPERS IN A STRAINER. RINSE UNDER RUNNING WATER, THEN EMPTY ONTO A PAPER TOWELS. RESERVE IN A SMALL BOWL.

DRY THE SHEEPHEAD WITH PAPER TOWELS. SALT AND PEPPER.

PLACE A FRYING PAN ON MEDIUM HEAT FOR A MINUTE. ADD A SPLASH OF OLIVE OIL. CAREFULLY, LAY IN THE FILLETS, SKIN SIDE DOWN AND IMMEDIATELY SHAKE THE PAN TILL THEY SLIDE AROUND EASILY.

COOK FOR TWO MINUTES MORE. LOWER THE HEAT. ADD 3 TBSPS OF BUTTER. BASTE THE FILLETS WITH THE MELTED BUTTER.

COVER THE PAN AND COOK ANOTHER MINUTE. UNCOVER AND BASTE WITH THE BUTTER WHICH SHOULD BE A NUT-BROWN BY NOW. CONTINUE TO COVER, BASTE, COVER, UNTIL A SHARP KNIFE INSERTED IN THE CENTER OF THE FILLET FEELS WARM WHEN TOUCHED TO YOUR BOTTOM LIP. PLACE THE FISH ON TWO DINNER PLATES.

MEANWHILE, RETURN THE ROMANESCO TO THE POT AND COVER. RAISE THE HEAT AND STEAM UNTIL IT IS BARELY TENDER WHEN PIERCED WITH A SMALL KNIFE. TURN OFF THE HEAT.

ADD 1/2 CUP OF WHITE WINE TO THE FISH PAN. REDUCE BY HALF. STIR IN THE CAPERS AND THE JUICE OF HALF A LEMON. COOK ANOTHER MINUTE TO REDUCE THE LIQUID.

ARRANGE THE ROMANESCO AROUND THE SHEEP HEAD. SPOON THE CAPER BROWN BUTTER SAUCE OVER EVERYTHING.

SERVES 2

Ingredients

 2 SHEEPHEAD CENTER CUT FILLETS
 3 cups ROMANESCO FLORETS
 3 tbsp CAPERS, PREFERABLY DRIED, SALT-PACKED
 2 LEMONS
 DRY WHITE WINE

Directions

1

USING A SMALL KNIFE CUT THE FLORETS FROM THE CENTRAL STALK OF THE ROMANESCO. PLACE IN THE TOP OF A STEAMER. BRING THE WATER IN THE POT TO A SIMMER, BUT DON'T START COOKING THE ROMANESCO.

PUT 3 TBSPS OF CAPERS IN A STRAINER. RINSE UNDER RUNNING WATER, THEN EMPTY ONTO A PAPER TOWELS. RESERVE IN A SMALL BOWL.

DRY THE SHEEPHEAD WITH PAPER TOWELS. SALT AND PEPPER.

PLACE A FRYING PAN ON MEDIUM HEAT FOR A MINUTE. ADD A SPLASH OF OLIVE OIL. CAREFULLY, LAY IN THE FILLETS, SKIN SIDE DOWN AND IMMEDIATELY SHAKE THE PAN TILL THEY SLIDE AROUND EASILY.

COOK FOR TWO MINUTES MORE. LOWER THE HEAT. ADD 3 TBSPS OF BUTTER. BASTE THE FILLETS WITH THE MELTED BUTTER.

COVER THE PAN AND COOK ANOTHER MINUTE. UNCOVER AND BASTE WITH THE BUTTER WHICH SHOULD BE A NUT-BROWN BY NOW. CONTINUE TO COVER, BASTE, COVER, UNTIL A SHARP KNIFE INSERTED IN THE CENTER OF THE FILLET FEELS WARM WHEN TOUCHED TO YOUR BOTTOM LIP. PLACE THE FISH ON TWO DINNER PLATES.

MEANWHILE, RETURN THE ROMANESCO TO THE POT AND COVER. RAISE THE HEAT AND STEAM UNTIL IT IS BARELY TENDER WHEN PIERCED WITH A SMALL KNIFE. TURN OFF THE HEAT.

ADD 1/2 CUP OF WHITE WINE TO THE FISH PAN. REDUCE BY HALF. STIR IN THE CAPERS AND THE JUICE OF HALF A LEMON. COOK ANOTHER MINUTE TO REDUCE THE LIQUID.

ARRANGE THE ROMANESCO AROUND THE SHEEP HEAD. SPOON THE CAPER BROWN BUTTER SAUCE OVER EVERYTHING.

SERVES 2

SHEEPHEAD AND ROMANESCO WITH CAPER BROWN BUTTER
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