THE SAUCE FOR THIS PAN-COOKED FISH IS A SORREL BUERRE BLANC. I FIRST ENCOUNTERED IT IN 1972 AT TROISGROS IN ROANNE WHERE IT WAS SERVED OVER A FILLET OF SALMON, COOKED BRIEFLY IN A TEFLON PAN. IT BECAME THE TROISGROS BROTHERS' EMBLEMATIC DISH AND SOON COULD BE FOUND ON RESTAURANT MENUS IN NEW YORK, LONDON AND PROBABLY TOKYO, THOUGH I CAN'T ATTEST TO THE LATTER. IT'S ALSO EMBLEMATIC OF NOUVELLE CUISINE; THE SIMPLEST USE OF THE BEST INGREDIENTS -- PERFECT FISH, NORMANDY BUTTER AND FRESH SORREL. I LEARNED HOW TO MAKE A BUERRE BLANC SO I COULD MAKE THIS DISH. SO SHOULD YOU. BUERRE BLANC, LIKE REDUCTIONS, WAS ONE OF A NEW GENERATION OF SAUCES WHICH BEGAN TO REPLACE FLOUR AND EGG-BASED SAUCES SUCH AS DEMI-GLACE, BECHAMEL AND HOLLANDAISE. THESE HEAVIER SAUCES WERE OFTEN USED TO DISGUISE THE LACK OF FRESHNESS OF MEAT AND FISH BEFORE REFRIGERATION. ROOM TEMPERATURE BUTTER IS BEATEN INTO A REDUCTION OF SCALLIONS, WHITE WINE AND WHITE WINE VINEGAR. YOU COULD STOP THERE AND YOU'D HAVE A BUERRE BLANC, BUT THE SOUR BITE OF THE SORREL CUTS THROUGH THE BUTTER, MAKING IT IDEAL COMPLEMENT TO PRACTICALLY ANY FISH.
TRIM AND MINCE SCALLIONS.
PLACE IN A MEDIUM SAUCEPAN WITH 1/2 CUP WHITE WINE AND 1/4 CUP OF WHITE WINE VINEGAR. SEASON WITH A PINCH OF SALT AND SEVERAL GRINDINGS OF WHITE PEPPER.
SIMMER ON A LOW FLAME TILL MOST OF THE LIQUID HAS EVAPORATED. SET ASIDE.
CUT THE BUTTER INTO 1/2-INCH BITS AND PUT ON A SALAD -SIZED PLATE.
STRIP THE SORREL LEAVES FROM THE STEMS. STACK THEM LIKE A DECK OF CARDS. ROLL INTO A CYLINDER AND SLICE INTO JULIENNE STRIPS. PLACE IN A BOWL.
PRE-HEAT A LARGE SAUTÉ PAN FOR 2 MINUTES ON A MEDIUM-HIGH FLAME.
DRY THE FISH THOROUGHLY, SALT AND PEPPER.
FILM THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN WITH GRAPESEED OR SOME OTHER NEUTRAL OIL.
LAY THE FISH IN, SKIN-SIDE DOWN. SHAKE THE PAN TILL THE FISH DOESN'T STICK. REDUCE THE HEAT TO MEDIUM. COOK FOR ABOUT 3 MINUTES.
ADD 3 TBSPS OF BUTTER TO THE PAN AND COVER. CONTINUE COOKING FOR ANOTHER 3 MINUTES, REMOVING THE LID FROM TIME TO TIME TO BASTE THE FISH WITH MELTED BUTTER.
THE FISH IS DONE WHEN A SHARP KNIFE INSERTED IN THE CENTER FEELS WARM WHEN TOUCHED TO YOUR BOTTOM LIP.
REMOVE THE FISH TO FOUR WARM PLATES WHILE YOU FINISH THE SAUCE.
ADD A SPLASH OF WHITE WINE TO THE SAUCEPAN. BRING TO A SIMMER.
REMOVE FROM THE HEAT AND USING YOUR FINGERS TO ADD THE BUTTER A FEW BIT AT A TIME, WHISK IT INTO THE SCALLION, WINE AND VINEGAR REDUCTION.
WHEN ALL THE BUTTER HAS BEEN INCORPORATED, FOLD IN THE SORREL.
SPOON THE SAUCE OVER THE FISH AND SERVE.
SERVES 4
Ingredients
Directions
TRIM AND MINCE SCALLIONS.
PLACE IN A MEDIUM SAUCEPAN WITH 1/2 CUP WHITE WINE AND 1/4 CUP OF WHITE WINE VINEGAR. SEASON WITH A PINCH OF SALT AND SEVERAL GRINDINGS OF WHITE PEPPER.
SIMMER ON A LOW FLAME TILL MOST OF THE LIQUID HAS EVAPORATED. SET ASIDE.
CUT THE BUTTER INTO 1/2-INCH BITS AND PUT ON A SALAD -SIZED PLATE.
STRIP THE SORREL LEAVES FROM THE STEMS. STACK THEM LIKE A DECK OF CARDS. ROLL INTO A CYLINDER AND SLICE INTO JULIENNE STRIPS. PLACE IN A BOWL.
PRE-HEAT A LARGE SAUTÉ PAN FOR 2 MINUTES ON A MEDIUM-HIGH FLAME.
DRY THE FISH THOROUGHLY, SALT AND PEPPER.
FILM THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN WITH GRAPESEED OR SOME OTHER NEUTRAL OIL.
LAY THE FISH IN, SKIN-SIDE DOWN. SHAKE THE PAN TILL THE FISH DOESN'T STICK. REDUCE THE HEAT TO MEDIUM. COOK FOR ABOUT 3 MINUTES.
ADD 3 TBSPS OF BUTTER TO THE PAN AND COVER. CONTINUE COOKING FOR ANOTHER 3 MINUTES, REMOVING THE LID FROM TIME TO TIME TO BASTE THE FISH WITH MELTED BUTTER.
THE FISH IS DONE WHEN A SHARP KNIFE INSERTED IN THE CENTER FEELS WARM WHEN TOUCHED TO YOUR BOTTOM LIP.
REMOVE THE FISH TO FOUR WARM PLATES WHILE YOU FINISH THE SAUCE.
ADD A SPLASH OF WHITE WINE TO THE SAUCEPAN. BRING TO A SIMMER.
REMOVE FROM THE HEAT AND USING YOUR FINGERS TO ADD THE BUTTER A FEW BIT AT A TIME, WHISK IT INTO THE SCALLION, WINE AND VINEGAR REDUCTION.
WHEN ALL THE BUTTER HAS BEEN INCORPORATED, FOLD IN THE SORREL.
SPOON THE SAUCE OVER THE FISH AND SERVE.
SERVES 4
