MABEL’S BOUILLABAISSE
ON MY FIRST TRIP TO PARIS IN 1961, MY AUNT MABEL JOINED ME FOR TWO WEEKS. MABEL HAD LIVED IN PARIS FROM 1922 TO 1928. SHE HAD HOBNOBBED [Read More]
GAMBAS AL AJILLO
I ONLY TWEAKED THIS EASY AND DELICIOUS SHRIMP RECIPE BY PAULA WOLFERT FROM MEDITERRANEAN COOKING. THE TECHNIQUE INTRIGUED ME: YOU COOK DOWN CHOPPED ONIONS, OLIVE OIL AND WATER [Read More]
LITTLE GEMS WITH CHEVRE DRESSING
THE INVENTION OF THIS DRESSING WAS SERENDIPITY. IN A REFRIGERATOR DRAWER, BURIED UNDER PACKAGES OF BUTTER, PARMESAN WRAPPED IN CHEESE CLOTH, AND A HUNK OF SLAB BACON, I [Read More]
BURRATA WITH TOMATOES AND PEACHES
WHEREVER YOU LIVE, IT’S NOT SUMMER TILL THE FARMER’S MARKETS ARE BURSTING WITH RIPE PEACHES AND TOMATOES. TOMATOES ARE ACTUALLY A FRUIT, BUT EVEN IF YOU INSIST ON [Read More]
BRODETTO
THIS RECIPE, WHICH I ADAPTED FROM COLEMAN ANDREWS HANDSOME TOME, “THE COUNTRY COOKING OF ITALY”, IS A FISH STEW FOR PEOPLE WHO DON’T LIKE FISH STEW. FOR EXAMPLE, [Read More]
BEEF CARPACCIO
IT TURNED SUDDENLY HOT IN L.A. NOT IN THE MOOD FOR COOKING, I ASSEMBLED A BEEF CARPACCIO, A DISH WHICH MANAGES TO BE BOTH LIGHT AND, BECAUSE OF [Read More]
OSSO BUCO
THIS RECIPE FOR OSSO BUCO IS MORE PROVENCAL THAN MILANESE. THE VEAL SHANKS ARE BROWNED, THEN BRAISED IN STOCK WITH ONIONS, GARLIC, A FEW WHOLE CANNED TOMATOES, A [Read More]
STEAMED ALASKAN COD WITH BUERRE BLANC
COD IS A WHITE-FLESHED FISH WITH FIRM BUT FLAKY FLESH. IT HAS A SUBTLE FLAVOR, ALTHOUGH MORE INTERESTING AND ASSERTIVE THAN HALIBUT. UNLESS YOU HAVE A SOUS-VIDE MACHINE, [Read More]
DUCK LEGS WITH RIESLING
I LOVE DUCK — ROASTED, BRAISED, PAN GRILLED, CONFIT — THE DARK, SLIGHTLY GAMEY FLESH; THE SKIN, CRISP AND SALTY.
GROUPER WITH SORREL SAUCE
THE TROISGROS BROTHERS INVENTED SAUMON A L’OSEILLE (SALMON WITH SORREL SAUCE) AROUND 1970. TROISGROS WAS THE FIRST MICHELIN 3-STAR WHERE LYNN AND I ATE — A FOUR-HOUR LUNCH [Read More]
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