GROUPER WITH SORREL SAUCE

THE TROISGROS BROTHERS INVENTED SAUMON A L’OSEILLE (SALMON WITH SORREL SAUCE) AROUND 1970.  TROISGROS WAS THE FIRST MICHELIN 3-STAR WHERE LYNN AND I ATE  — A FOUR-HOUR LUNCH IN 1972.  I STILL REMEMBER THAT DISH — THE QUICK-SEARED FILLET OF SALMON, PINK IN THE MIDDLE, SWIMMING IN A VELVETY SEA OF BUERRE BLANC FLECKED WITH RIBBONS OF SOUR SORREL, WHICH CUT THROUGH THE RICHNESS OF THE FISH AND BUTTER.  THE TROISGROS’ DISH BECAME A MODERN CLASSIC AND SOON IT WAS TURNING UP ON MENUS IN FRENCH RESTAURANTS ON EVERY CONTINENT.  LIKE MANY GREAT DISHES, THE PREPARATION IS RELATIVELY SIMPLE.  CERTAINLY, ANYONE CAN PAN COOK A DECENT PIECE OF FISH AND BUERRE BLANC IS EASIER TO MAKE THAN HOLLANDAISE.  I’VE DONE IT WITH SALMON, BUT IT’S EQUALLY GOOD WITH GROUPER OR STRIPED BASS.
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