FOR OUR LAST MEAL IN MILAN, WE ATE AT A HIP TRATTORIA IN THE NAVIGLI DISTRICT CALLED LA TRIPPA, WHERE LYNN ORDERED A WHITE LAMB RAGU. MADE WITHOUT THE ASSERTIVE TASTE OF TOMATO, THE MEAT HAD A DELICATE FLAVOR, PERFUMED SUBTLY WITH WHAT I THOUGHT WAS ROSEMARY AND PERHAPS THYME. I TRIED RE-CREATING THAT SAUCE USING VEAL AND PORK, AN EVEN SUBTLER COMBINATION THAN LAMB. TOSSED WITH EGG NOODLES, THE DISH HAS AN UNDERSTATED, FRAGRANT RICHNESS. NEXT TIME, I’LL TRY IT WITH LAMB, UNLESS YOU BEAT ME TO THE PUNCH.
