10
Jan

CHICKEN WITH VINEGAR 2

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CHICKEN WITH VINEGAR 2

MY FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH CHICKEN WITH VINEGAR WAS BY WAY OF MARCELLA HAZAN. I’D NEVER USED ANCHOVIES IN ANYTHING BUT A CAESAR SALD AND IT AMAZED ME HOW UNDETECTABLE THEY WERE IN THE FINISHED DISH, MERELY SERVING TO ENHANCE THE FLAVOR WITH A RICH UMAMI, BEFORE THAT WORD WAS COINED IN WESTERN COOKING. THIS BECAME ONE OF MY GO-TO DISHES.  NO ONE EVER GUESSED IT CONTAINED ANCHOVIES.

LAST WEEK, I DECIDED TO EXPERIMENT — USING SOMEWHAT THE SAME INGREDIENTS, BUT HOPING FOR A SUBTLER FLAVOR.  SO I SKIPPED DREDGING THE CHICKEN IN FLOUR BEFORE BROWNING, SUBSTITUTED EQUAL PARTS WHITE WINE AND BANYULS VINEGAR, WHICH IS SUBTLER THAN RED WINE VINEGAR BUT MORE ASSERTIVE THAN WHITE.  I INCLUDED THYME WHERE THERE WAS ONLY ROSEMARY.  I HAD A BOX OF CIPOLLINI ON HAND, SO IN THEY WENT AFTER BROWNING THEM BRIEFLY IN A SEPARATE PAN.  I’M VERY HAPPY WITH THIS NEW VERSION OF AN OLD DISH.  I HOPE YOU WILL BE TOO.
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