THE ITALIANS
WHEN WE MOVED HERE FROM NEW YORK IN 1975 THERE WAS ONLY ONE DECENT ITALIAN RESTAURANT, VALENTINOS, PIERO SELVAGGIO’S TEMPLE OF NORTHERN ITALIAN DINING. IT WAS ELEGANT AND [Read More]
GRILLED LITTLE GEMS WITH BURRATA AND KUMQUATS
BURRATA IS MOZZARELLA WRAPPED AROUND MASCARPONE. WHEN SUMMER TOMATOES ARE AT THEIR PEAK, FEW DISHES RIVAL A MEDLEY OF HEIRLOOMS PILLOWED WITH FRESH BURRATA, DRIZZLED WITH A PEPPERY [Read More]
BUCATINI WITH ZUCCHINI AND CHERRY TOMATOES
WHAT SAYS SUMMER BETTER THAN TOMATOES AND ZUCCHINI? THIS PASTA DISH TAKES NO TIME TO MAKE, BUT THE PREP WORK IS IMPORTANT. TOSSING THE BATONS OF ZUCCHINI IN [Read More]
COD WITH CABBAGE AND CHANTERELLES
LOCAL CHANTERELLES TURNED UP AT THE MARKET ON SUNDAY. THEY WERE LARGE AND GNARLY, SOMEWHAT MISSHAPEN, BUT QUITE DRY AND AT $22 A POUND I COULDN’T RESIST. DRY [Read More]
CHICKEN WITH VINEGAR 2
MY FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH CHICKEN WITH VINEGAR WAS BY WAY OF MARCELLA HAZAN. I’D NEVER USED ANCHOVIES IN ANYTHING BUT A CAESAR SALD AND IT AMAZED ME HOW [Read More]
HAM HOCK AND WHITE BEAN SOUP
“HATES CALIFORNIA, IT’S COLD AND IT’S DAMP…” WHEN IT DOES GET COLD HERE OR ANYWHERE, NOTHING SATISFIES LIKE SOUP. THE FLAVOR IN THIS WHITE BEAN SOUP COMES FROM [Read More]
CHICKEN CHASSEUR
THE CHASSEUR (HUNTER) IN CHICKEN CHASSEUR TELLS YOU IT CONTAINS MUSHROOMS, PROBABLY CHOPPED ONIONS, GARLIC, TOMATO AND WINE. THE REST IS UP FOR GRABS. IN THIS CASE, THE [Read More]
BUCATINI WITH MUSHROOMS
THE WOODSY FUNKINESS OF BROWN MUSHROOMS IS ENHANCED IN THIS SIMPLE PASTA DISH WITH A MIXTURE OF ANCHOVIES, HERBS AND GARLIC. I BORROWED THIS FLAVOR MIXTURE FROM MARCELLA [Read More]
SHRIMP WITH CELERY
CELERY, WHICH PRIOR TO THE 16TH CENTURY WAS USED EXCLUSIVELY IN EUROPE AS A MEDICINAL HERB, IS A KIND OF WORKHORSE VEGETABLE. PAIRED WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CARROTS, [Read More]
VEAL CHOPS ROBUCHON
I HAVE FOR THE MOST PART STOPPED EATING VEAL. FIRST, BECAUSE THE MILK-FED VEAL WE GET IN THIS COUNTRY IS A PRODUCT OF THE CRUELEST KIND OF FACTORY [Read More]
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