PARMESAN BROTH
I USE A LOT OF PARMESAN CHEESE IN MY COOKING. IN SALADS, PASTAS, RISOTTO, AND GRATED OVER SOUP. I ALWAYS BUY HIGH QUALITY IMPORTED PARMESAN, PREFERABLY RED COW [Read More]
SAFFRON RISOTTO WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
THE MYTH ABOUT RISOTTO IS THAT YOU HAVE TO STAND AT THE STOVE AND STIR IT CONSTANTLY FOR 45 MINUTES, ADDING HALF A CUP OF BROTH AT A [Read More]
LAMB SHANKS MARRAKESH WITH SAFFRON RISOTTO
LAMB SHANKS, LIKE PORK BELLY AND SHORT RIBS, HAVE BECOME A FIXTURE ON RESTAURANT MENUS. NOT WITHOUT REASON. ALL ARE CHEAP CUTS WHICH LEND THEMSELVES TO SLOW COOKING. [Read More]
PRESERVED LEMONS
I ALWAYS HAVE A JAR OF PRESERVED LEMONS IN MY FRIDGE. THEY’RE A CINCH TO MAKE, THEY KEEP FOREVER AND THEIR INTENSE SALTY-SOUR BITE CAN BE USED TO [Read More]
CALF’S LIVER WITH WINTER SQUASH
THE WORLD IS DIVIDED INTO TWO KINDS OF PEOPLE: THOSE WHO LOVE CALF’S LIVER AND THEMS THAT DON’T. CLEARLY, I’M IN THE FORMER CAMP. IN FACT, I WILL [Read More]
CHITARRA WITH CHERRY TOMATOES
THERE’S A WORKING-CLASS RESTAURANT IN ROME CALLED MACCHERONI, WHERE THE PASTA CHEF STANDS IN A GLASS-ENCLOSED KITCHEN NEAR THE STAIRS TO THE RESTROOMS, FILLING ORDERS FOR CARBONARA, PUTTANESCA, [Read More]
LOU WINE SHOP
ALTHOUGH A CUM LAUDE GRADUATE OF BROWN UNIVERSITY WITH HONORS IN ENGLISH, I HAD NEVER ENCOUNTERED THE WORD “AUTOCHTHONOUS” UNTIL I READ LOU AMDUR’S DESCRIPTION OF THE FRAPPATO [Read More]
MABEL’S BOUILLABAISSE
ON MY FIRST TRIP TO PARIS IN 1961, MY AUNT MABEL JOINED ME FOR TWO WEEKS. MABEL HAD LIVED IN PARIS FROM 1922 TO 1928. SHE HAD HOBNOBBED [Read More]
VEGAN FEAST: AN ODE TO SARAH
CALL IT A MOMENTARY LAPSE OR AN ODE TO MY NIECE SARAH, A VEGAN AND ALSO AN EXCELLENT COOK, BUT WITH SO MANY GREAT VEGETABLES AROUND AND DETERMINED [Read More]
GAMBAS AL AJILLO
I ONLY TWEAKED THIS EASY AND DELICIOUS SHRIMP RECIPE BY PAULA WOLFERT FROM MEDITERRANEAN COOKING. THE TECHNIQUE INTRIGUED ME: YOU COOK DOWN CHOPPED ONIONS, OLIVE OIL AND WATER [Read More]
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