IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET IN SIRACUSA, SILVER SARDINES, RED MULLET, TUNA, BRANZINO, VONGOLE, MUSSELS, AND ALL KINDS OF PRAWNS GLITTER ON A BED OF SHAVED ICE. A FISHMONGER WITH ARMS LIKE TREE LIMBS SHOUTS OUT, “SPADA! SPADA!” AND USING A FOOTLONG STAINLESS STEEL CLEAVER SLICES SEVEN PERFECT STEAKS.
BACK AT ZISOLA, THE VILLA WE RENTED ON THE MAZZEI WINE AND OLIVE OIL ESTATE OUTSIDE OF NOTO, I COOKED A MEAL OF SPAGHETTI ALLA VONGOLE AND SAUTÈED SWORDFISH. IF I WERE SICILIAN, I WOULD HAVE ADDED ORANGE SLICES AND PERHAPS SCATTERED SLICED ALMONDS ON TOP. THESE ARE ALL MOORISH INFLUENCES. THE ARABS OCCUPIED SICILY FOR OVER TWO HUNDRED YEARS. THEY BROUGHT CITRUS FRUITS, DATES, ALMONDS, AND NORTH AFRICAN SPICES TO THE ISLAND AND THOSE SEASONINGS ARE INGRAINED IN THE CUISINE, SHARPLY DISTINGUISHING IT FROM THE FOOD OF TUSCANY, LOMBARDY OR EMILIA ROMAGNA.
Just returned from 3 weeks in Sicily. Your description of the Catania market is perfect, and we enjoyed ‘spada’ prepared as you have it here. So much excellent fish—but also all the vegetable dishes flavored with those Arab influences. Thanks.