THE TROISGROS BROTHERS INVENTED SAUMON A L’OSEILLE (SALMON WITH SORREL SAUCE) AROUND 1970. TROISGROS WAS THE FIRST MICHELIN 3-STAR WHERE LYNN AND I ATE — A FOUR-HOUR LUNCH IN 1972. I STILL REMEMBER THAT DISH — THE QUICK-SEARED FILLET OF SALMON, PINK IN THE MIDDLE, SWIMMING IN A VELVETY SEA OF BUERRE BLANC FLECKED WITH RIBBONS OF SOUR SORREL, WHICH CUT THROUGH THE RICHNESS OF THE FISH AND BUTTER. THE TROISGROS’ DISH BECAME A MODERN CLASSIC AND SOON IT WAS TURNING UP ON MENUS IN FRENCH RESTAURANTS ON EVERY CONTINENT. LIKE MANY GREAT DISHES, THE PREPARATION IS RELATIVELY SIMPLE. CERTAINLY, ANYONE CAN PAN COOK A DECENT PIECE OF FISH AND BUERRE BLANC IS EASIER TO MAKE THAN HOLLANDAISE. I’VE DONE IT WITH SALMON, BUT IT’S EQUALLY GOOD WITH GROUPER OR STRIPED BASS.
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