I’M ADDING THIS RECIPE TO “BASICS” BECAUSE IT’S MY DEFAULT TECHNIQUE FOR COOKING A CUT-UP CHICKEN. ESSENTIALLY, YOU BROWN THE CHICKEN PIECES, REMOVE, SWEAT ONIONS AND GARLIC IN THE FAT AND RETURN THE CHICKEN TO THE PAN TO COOK, PARTIALLY COVERED, SO THE SKIN STAYS CRISP. FOLLOWING THE SAME STEPS, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE LEEKS, SCALLIONS, RED PEPPERS, TOMATOES, EVEN RADICCHIO. ADD CREME FRAICHE AND TARRAGON AND YOU’VE MADE CHICKEN TARRAGON. DE-GLAZE THE PAN WITH CHAMPAGNE AND HEAVY CREAM, YOU HAVE A LUXURIOUS POULET AU CHAMPAGNE. IT’S THE IDEAL TECHNIQUE FOR MAKING CHICKEN WITH ANY KIND OF WILD MUSHROOM. A ONE-POT DISH, THE ONE POT YOU WILL NEED IS A DEEP-SIDED SAUTE PAN WITH A LID. I’VE BEEN USING THE SAME CUISINART PAN FOR 30 YEARS, BUT PRACTICALLY EVERY DECENT COOKWARE COMPANY MAKES A VERSION OF THIS PAN IN SEVERAL SIZES — ALL-CLAD, CALPHALON, AND THE BEST, BUT HARDEST TO FIND, SITRAM. WHICHEVER SUITS YOUR AESTHETIC AND YOUR BUDGET, BE SURE THAT IT’S LARGE ENOUGH TO ACCOMMODATE A 4-POUND CUT-UP CHICKEN IN ONE LAYER.
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