FRANCIS LAM RECENTLY PUBLISHED A LOVELY RECIPE IN THE N.Y. TIMES FOR CHICKEN À NORMANDE, WHICH SHE’D GOTTEN FROM A COVEN OF EX-PATRIOT FRENCH LADIES WHO LIVE IN COBBLE HILL.
NORMANDY MEANS CALVADOS, APPLES, AND CREAM AND THIS DISH COVERS ALL THOSE BASES. I DECIDED TO ADAPT IT TO PORK CHEEKS, A GREAT CUT IF YOU CAN FIND THEM; OVAL NUGGETS OF SOLID MEAT, IDEAL FOR BRAISING. I’D NEVER COOKED WITH HARD CIDER BEFORE AND WAS WORRIED IT MIGHT BE TOO SWEET, BUT I WAS WRONG. HARD CIDER IS AS DRY AS PROSECCO. COMBINED WITH THE SOUR RICHNESS OF CREME FRAICHE, THE BRAISING LIQUID BECAME A RICH AND LUXURIOUS SAUCE. IT TURNED OUT TO BE ONE OF MY MOST POPULAR DISHES.
