WHEN I SPOT SKATE OR HALIBUT CHEEKS AT MY FISHMONGER’S, I ALWAYS SNAP THEM UP. THEY HAVE THE CONSISTENCY OF SCALLOPS AND THE SWEETNESS OF THE FISH. YOU HAVE TO SAUTE THEM QUICKLY, SO THEY BROWN ON THE OUTSIDE BUT BARELY COOK THROUGH. WONDRA FLOUR IS GREAT FOR SAUTEING FISH BECAUSE ITS GRAINY CONSISTENCY KEEPS IT FROM CAKING UP OR STICKING TO THE PAN. THE SNAP PEA RAGU IS A BIT TRICKY AS FAR AS TIMING IS CONCERNED. YOU WANT EVERYTHING CRUNCHY AND GREEN TASTING, PARTICULARLY THE SNAP PEAS, WHICH ARE NOT REALLY COOKED AT ALL, JUST HEATED THROUGH. THE RAGU ITSELF IS A NICE DISH TO HAVE ON ITS OWN OR WITH JUST ABOUT ANYTHING — CHICKEN, LAMB OR PORK. IT MAKES EVERY DISH LOOK LIKE SPRING.
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