L.O. LAMB STEW AU LEVANT
MY MOTHER, A CHILD OF THE DEPRESSION, HATED WASTE. OUR ICE BOX, AS SHE CALLED IT, WAS A TREASURE TROVE OF PLASTIC CONTAINERS AND SARAN-WRAPPED PLATES. NOTHING GAVE [Read More]
More DetailsPARMESAN BROTH
I USE A LOT OF PARMESAN CHEESE IN MY COOKING. IN SALADS, PASTAS, RISOTTO, AND GRATED OVER SOUP. I ALWAYS BUY HIGH QUALITY IMPORTED PARMESAN, PREFERABLY RED COW [Read More]
More DetailsSAFFRON RISOTTO WITH FENNEL AND LEEKS
THE MYTH ABOUT RISOTTO IS THAT YOU HAVE TO STAND AT THE STOVE AND STIR IT CONSTANTLY FOR 45 MINUTES, ADDING HALF A CUP OF BROTH AT A [Read More]
More DetailsLAMB SHANKS MARRAKESH WITH SAFFRON RISOTTO
LAMB SHANKS, LIKE PORK BELLY AND SHORT RIBS, HAVE BECOME A FIXTURE ON RESTAURANT MENUS. NOT WITHOUT REASON. ALL ARE CHEAP CUTS WHICH LEND THEMSELVES TO SLOW COOKING. [Read More]
More DetailsPRESERVED LEMONS
I ALWAYS HAVE A JAR OF PRESERVED LEMONS IN MY FRIDGE. THEY’RE A CINCH TO MAKE, THEY KEEP FOREVER AND THEIR INTENSE SALTY-SOUR BITE CAN BE USED TO [Read More]
More DetailsCALF’S LIVER WITH WINTER SQUASH
THE WORLD IS DIVIDED INTO TWO KINDS OF PEOPLE: THOSE WHO LOVE CALF’S LIVER AND THEMS THAT DON’T. CLEARLY, I’M IN THE FORMER CAMP. IN FACT, I WILL [Read More]
More DetailsCHITARRA WITH CHERRY TOMATOES
THERE’S A WORKING-CLASS RESTAURANT IN ROME CALLED MACCHERONI, WHERE THE PASTA CHEF STANDS IN A GLASS-ENCLOSED KITCHEN NEAR THE STAIRS TO THE RESTROOMS, FILLING ORDERS FOR CARBONARA, PUTTANESCA, [Read More]
More DetailsLOU WINE SHOP
ALTHOUGH A CUM LAUDE GRADUATE OF BROWN UNIVERSITY WITH HONORS IN ENGLISH, I HAD NEVER ENCOUNTERED THE WORD “AUTOCHTHONOUS” UNTIL I READ LOU AMDUR’S DESCRIPTION OF THE FRAPPATO [Read More]
More DetailsMABEL’S BOUILLABAISSE
ON MY FIRST TRIP TO PARIS IN 1961, MY AUNT MABEL JOINED ME FOR TWO WEEKS. MABEL HAD LIVED IN PARIS FROM 1922 TO 1928. SHE HAD HOBNOBBED [Read More]
More DetailsVEGAN FEAST: AN ODE TO SARAH
CALL IT A MOMENTARY LAPSE OR AN ODE TO MY NIECE SARAH, A VEGAN AND ALSO AN EXCELLENT COOK, BUT WITH SO MANY GREAT VEGETABLES AROUND AND DETERMINED [Read More]
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