THE FOUR BEST MEALS I’VE EATEN OVER THE PAST COUPLE OF MONTHS HAVE ALL BEEN AT LUSTIG, BERNARD MAIRINGER’S AUSTRIAN-INSPIRED BISTROT IN HELMS BAKERY. I RARELY REVIEW RESTAURANTS BECAUSE WITHOUT VISITING THEM MULTIPLE TIMES AND GOING THROUGH THE MENU, I DON’T FEEL QUALIFIED TO DO SO. LUSTIG IS THE EXCEPTION. BY RECRUITING OTHER COUPLES TO JOIN US, WE’VE EATEN OUR WAY THROUGH THE MENU, WHICH NOT ONLY INCLUDES VIENNESE CLASSICS LIKE WIENER SCHNITZEL, PLUMP SAUSAGES, SPÄTZLE, WINE BRAISED SAUERKRAUT, AND KAISERSCHMARRN, BUT WALNUT-SIZED PROFITEROLES FILLED WITH CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE AND TOPPED WITH A DISC OF DARK CHOCOLATE; BEET SALAD WITH CHÉVRE, HAZELNUTS AND JAPANESE PEACHES.; A BUBBLING OPEN-FACED POTATO AND CHEESE TART; MELTINGLY RICH 12-HOUR BEEF CHEEKS; VENISON MEDALLIONS WITH A CHOCOLATE-BROWN VENISON REDUCTION; A PUNCHY HAMACHI CRUDO; A CRUNCHY, SOUR CREAMED CUCUMBER SALAD; AN AIRY BLACK FOREST CAKE AND A FLUFFY APPLE PANCAKE WITH A SOUR CHERRY COMPOTE. I’VE WASHED ALL THAT DOWN WITH ERICH LUSTIG’S GRUNER AND A MORIC BLAUFRÄNKISCH AT $45/BOTTLE. THE COFFEE IS GOOD; THE SERVICE, FRIENDLY AND SEAMLESS; AND LUSTIG ITSELF, CHEERFUL, LIVELY BUT SERENE ENOUGH TO CARRY ON A CONVERSATION.
BERNARD MAIRINGER, WHOSE L.A. CAREER INCLUDES CHEF DE CUISINE FOR THE PATINA GROUP, TWO JAMES BEARD NOMINATIONS AND A MICHELIN LISTING FOR LUSTIG SINCE 2024, IS, LIKE WITH JOSEF CENTENO AND WALTER MANZKE, A TRUE MASTER CHEF, IN THE SENSE THAT HIS DISHES INCORPORATE IDEAS FROM A RANGE OF INTERNATIONAL CUISINES– ASIAN, MIDDLE EASTERN, FRENCH, AUSTRIAN, AND SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICAN, E.G. HIS RAW TUNA “CIGARS” OR STYRIAN AFFOGATO. AND, AS ONE OF FRIENDS REMARKED ABOUT LAST NIGHT’S DINNER, “EVERY DISH ROCKED.” THEIR IS A PRECISION TO BERNARD’S COOKING AS WELL AS INVENTION. IT’S JUST HIS PALATE THAT HAS BROUGHT US BACK MULTIPLE TIMES; IT’S HIS FLAWLESS EXECUTION.
AND GUESS WHAT? LUSTIG IS CLOSING. UNLESS BERNARD GETS AN INFLUX OF NEW INVESTORS; UNLESS THE PLACE IS PACKED FROM NOW TILL THE END OF JANUARY, ON THE 28TH, LUSTIG WILL SERVE IT’S LAST MEAL. DON’T DEPRIVE YOURSELF OF THESE WONDERFUL DISHES. EAT AT LUSTIG BEFORE LUSTIG BECOMES A MEMORY.
