I LOVE DUCK — ROASTED, BRAISED, PAN GRILLED, CONFIT — THE DARK, SLIGHTLY GAMEY FLESH; THE SKIN, CRISP AND SALTY. SOME PEOPLE SAY DUCK IS FATTY AND THIS IS TRUE. BUT THE FAT IS ALL IN THE SKIN AND IS EASILY RENDERED OUT, EITHER THROUGH SLOW ROASTING, BRAISING OR, IN THE CASE OF DUCK BREASTS, COOKED SKIN SIDE DOWN IN A CAST IRON PAN. DUCK LEGS, ESPECIALLY MUSCOVY OR BARBARY DUCKS, ARE TOUGH UNLESS BRAISED SLOWLY OVER LOW HEAT. BUT BRAISING IN A COVERED PAN TURNS THE SKIN SOGGY AND ONE OF THE JOYS OF DUCK IS A CRISP SKIN. I FOUND A SIMPLE SOLUTION: BRAISE THE LEGS IN PLENTY OF LIQUID WITH THE LID AJAR. THE LEGS TURN TENDER. THE SKIN STAYS CRISP. DUCK AND CABBAGE IS A GREAT COMBINATION, PARTICULARLY WHEN THE CABBAGE IS COOKED IN DUCK JUICE AND A BIT OF FAT. THE FINAL TOUCH IS SAUTEED APPLES. SAUTEED IN DUCK FAT. WHAT ELSE?!
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