THERE’S A WORKING-CLASS RESTAURANT IN ROME CALLED MACCHERONI, WHERE THE PASTA CHEF STANDS IN A GLASS-ENCLOSED KITCHEN NEAR THE STAIRS TO THE RESTROOMS, FILLING ORDERS FOR CARBONARA, PUTTANESCA, VONGOLE, RUSTICA, AND BOLOGNESE. I DON’T KNOW THE NAME OF THE DISH I’VE TRIED TO REPLICATE HERE (MAYBE CHECCA), BUT I WATCHED THIS GUY POUR OLIVE OIL IN A WIDE SKILLET, TOSS IN A HANDFUL OF SLICED GARLIC AND HALVED CHERRY TOMATOES, COOKED SPAGHETTI AND A LADLEFUL OF PASTA WATER. SHAKING AND TOSSING WITH ONE HAND, HE FINISHED AND PLATED THE DISH IN LESS THAN THREE MINUTES. IT LOOKED FABULOUS. UNFORTUNATELY, WE HAD ALREADY EATEN. IT’S WAY TOO HOT FOR OCTOBER, BUT NOT FOR TOMATOES WHICH SOAK UP THE SUN AND REWARD OUR FORBEARANCE WITH SWEETNESS AND FLAVOR. THERE ARE ALL SHADES OF CHERRY TOMATOES IN THE FARMERS’ MARKET — BRIGHT RED, DEEP PURPLE, OBLONG YELLOW ONES. WITH A RANGE OF SWEETNESS AND ACIDITY. MIX AND MATCH BUT DO IT SOON, FOR SUMMER’S LEASE HATH ALL TOO SHORT A DATE.
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