CHINESE SPARE RIBS

YES, THESE ARE AS GOOD AS THEY LOOK. AND I DON’T EVEN HAVE A GRILL. EXCEPT FOR A FEW MINOR CHANGES, THIS IS 95% JULIA MOSKIN’S RECIPE FROM THE NY TIMES. YOU MARINATE THE RIBS IN HOISIN SAUCE, GARLIC, SOY SAUCE AND OTHER SEASONINGS. THE NEXT DAY (OR FOUR HOURS LATER) YOU STEAM THEM SLOWLY ON A RACK IN THE OVEN, THEN FINISH THEM OFF AT A HIGHER TEMPERATURE.

STEAMING KEEPS THE RIBS FIRM. THE SLOW COOKING RENDERS THEM TENDER. THE MARINADE CARAMELIZES IN THE HOTTER OVEN. IF I HAD A CHARCOAL GRILL, I WOULD HAVE FINISHED THEM OFF THE HEAT, WHICH INFUSES THE MEAT WITH A SMOKEY GLOW. YOU COULD SERVE THEM WITH PRACTICALLY ANYTHING, BUT STILL IN THE FLUSH OF A HOT L.A. SUMMER, I MADE A FRENCH POTATO SALAD AND A SALAD WITH TREVISO, TORN CROUTONS, SLICED ONIONS AND TOMATOES. AND BEER. THIS IS DEFINITELY A TWO-BEER DISH.
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