WHO DOESN’T LOVE POULET A L’ESTRAGON, THAT SEDUCTIVE COMBINATION OF CHICKEN, TARRAGON, ONIONS AND CREAM? MOST RECIPES ARE SIMPLE BRAISES. THE PROBLEM WITH BRAISING, HOWEVER, IS THAT THE SKIN OF THE CHICKEN SOFTENS AS IT COOKS IN THE LIQUID. ONE SOLUTION IS TO PAN COOK THE CHICKEN FIRST, TAKE IT OUT, MAKE THE SAUCE AND REASSEMBLE THE DISH FOR SERVING. YOU WIND UP WITH CRISP-SKINNED CHICKEN AND A LUXURIOUS SAUCE. (ETYMOLOGICAL NOTE: THE WORD ESTRAGON DERIVES FROM THE WORD FOR DRAGON, WHICH DESCRIBES THE SHAPE OF ROOTS OF THE TARRAGON PLANT.)
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