WHEN MIMI SHERATON SAYS THE WHOLE WORLD LOVES CHICKEN SOUP, SHE KNOWS WHEREOF SHE SPEAKS, AND, IN FACT, MS. SHERATON HAS WRITTEN A COOKBOOK DEVOTED TO THAT ONE DISH. PRACTICALLY EVERY CUISINE INCLUDES CHICKEN SOUP. MY FAVORITE IN L.A. CAN BE FOUND AT THE SAMANLUANG NOODLE COMPANY (KINGSLEY AND HOLLYWOOD BLVD). MY PARTICULAR VERSION COULDN’T BE SIMPLER — ROAST A CHICKEN, COVER IT WITH WATER, SIMMER ET VOILA! CHICKEN SOUP. BROWNING THE CHICKEN GUARANTEES A DEEPLY SATISFYING BROTH, SUFFUSED WITH THE RICHNESS FROM THE BONES. IT’S EVEN EASIER TO MAKE WITH A LEFT-OVER ROAST CHICKEN. IF YOU ARE FUSSY ABOUT FAT, LET IT COOL OVERNIGHT AND REMOVE THE CONGEALED FAT BEFORE RE-HEATING. YOU CAN, OF COURSE, SUBSTITUTE RICE OR OTHER VEGETABLES FOR THE NOODLES BUT SOMEHOW I ASSOCIATED THE COMFORT OF CHICKEN SOUP WITH NOODLES.
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