IT TURNED SUDDENLY HOT IN L.A. NOT IN THE MOOD FOR COOKING, I ASSEMBLED A BEEF CARPACCIO, A DISH WHICH MANAGES TO BE BOTH LIGHT AND, BECAUSE OF THE BEEF AND CHEESE, SATISFYING. THIS RECIPE IS ALL ABOUT INGREDIENTS. I USUALLY MAKE CARPACCIO WITH SIRLOIN BECAUSE IT IS FLAVORFUL WITH A TENDER BUT RESILIENT TEXTURE. BUT I SPOTTED TWO GRASS-FED FILLETS MIGNONS ON SALE AT THE MARKET. THE MEAT WAS DARK, ON THE VERGE OF TURNING. GRASS FED BEEF IS ALSO TOUGHER THAN GRAIN FED WITH A MORE ASSERTIVE, MINERAL FLAVOR. IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE PERFECT CHOICE. BUT, PLEASE, EXPERIMENT WITH DIFFERENT CUTS. FREE RANGE VEAL MIGHT BE A GOOD OPTION. SINCE THE WILD ARUGULA IS PEPPERY, I USED A RATHER EXPENSIVE, FRUITY OLIVE OIL. BEATEN VIGOROUSLY INTO THE LEMON JUICE IT EMULSIFIES, ADDING BODY TO THE DRESSING. GENEROUS SLICES OF PARMESAN, A SCATTERING OF FRESH HERBS, YOU’VE SPARED YOU THE HEAT OF THE KITCHEN. YOU COULD SERVE IT ON ITS OWN WITH A BAGUETTE OR ACCOMPANIED BY A COOL SOUP — POTATO AND LEEK, SORREL OR GAZPACHO.
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