JOSEF CENTENO JUST CAME OUT WITH A COOKBOOK, “BÄCO, VIVID RECIPES FROM THE HEART OF LOS ANGELES”, WHICH HE WROTE WITH BETTY HALLOCK, A FOOD WRITER AND ONE-TIME DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR FOR THE L.A. TIMES.
I’M A BIG FAN OF JOSEF’S COOKING, WHICH, AS JONATHAN GOLD POINTED OUT IN HIS REVIEW OF JOSEF’S ORSA & WINSTON, REFLECTS THIS MELTING POT OF A CITY WITH POPULATIONS FROM BOTH SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA AS WELL AS CHINA, JAPAN AND SOUTHEAST ASIA.
THE MIRACLE OF JOSEF’S DISHES ARE THAT THEY SEAMLESSLY COMBINE THOSE TASTES INTO ORIGINAL CREATIONS. THIS RECIPE FOR WHOLE ROASTED ORANGE-AND-SOY-GLAZED DUCK USES A SPICE RUB WHICH IS MIDDLE EASTERN AND A GLAZE WHICH IS PART FRENCH, PART CHINESE. THE RESULT IS A SUCCULENT BIRD WITH A CRISPY, SWEET-SOUR SKIN.
I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT AND FUDGED THE BAHARAT, WHICH I DID NOT HAVE ON HAND, BUT WILL NEXT TIME. THE THRILL AND CHALLENGE OF THIS BOOK WILL BE TO ASSEMBLE A NEW PANTRY OF SPICE MIXES AND SAUCES, WHICH CAN BE USED IN BOTH JOSEF’S RECIPES AND INVENTIONS OF ONE’S OWN.
