THIS IS A LOVELY FIRST COURSE. OR, ON A WARM DAY, YOU MIGHT DOUBLE THE RECIPE AND SERVE IT FOR LUNCH WITH A CRUSTY BAGUETTE. SMOKED TROUT, WHICH IS AVAILABLE IN MOST GOOD SUPERMARKETS, HAS A SUBTLE, SAVORY FLAVOR AND A FIRM TEXTURE.
DON’T BE LAZY AND SKIP THE FRESH HORSE RADISH. IT’S THE KEY TO THIS DISH. IT WILL CLEAR YOUR SINUSES WHEN YOU GRATE IT, BUT THERE IS NO COMPARING IT TO THE ANEMIC VERSION IN A BOTTLE. AS STRONG AS IT IS, THE CREME FRAICHE AND LEMON JUICE SOFTENS ITS PUNCH, BUT NOT SO MUCH AS TO MUTE ITS REFRESHING BITE MIXED WITH THE TROUT, CELERY AND GREEN ONIONS. NOTE: SANS TROUT AND CELERY, THIS HORSE RADISH SAUCE MAKES A GREAT CONDIMENT TO SERVE WITH ROAST BEEF OR LEG OF LAMB.
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