LA TULIPE WAS THE LOVE CHILD OF SALLY AND JOHN DARR, WHO OPENED THEIR RESTAURANT IN 1979 AT 104 WEST 13th STREET IN MANHATTAN. JOHN HAD BEEN THE HEAD OF THE LOWER SCHOOL AT BROOKLYN FRIENDS. SALLY, A GIFTED AMATEUR COOK, RAN THE TEST KITCHEN AT GOURMET MAGAZINE. THE BISTRO WAS COZY; THE FRENCH DISHES, LIGHT AND INVENTIVE. LA TULIPE CLOSED IN 1991, BUT TWO DISHES, IN PARTICULAR, ARE VIVID IN MY SENSE MEMORY — ISLE FLOTTANTE LACED WITH CARAMEL AND TOASTED HAZELNUTS AND A FIRST COURSE SHRIMP AND ENDIVE SALAD WITH A CREAMY DRESSING TASTING OF SESAME OIL AND MUSTARD. THIS IS MY ATTEMPT TO RE-CREATE THAT DISH.
