MY FRIEND BRIAN GODFREY RECENTLY INTRODUCED ME TO A CUT OF MEAT I’D NEVER SEEN BEFORE — PORK BRISKET. I LOVE PORK AND I LOVE BRISKET, SO I DEVISED A RECIPE THE INGREDIENTS OF WHICH OFFSET THE PORK’S SUCCULENT SWEETNESS. KUMQUATS ARE IN SEASON. UNLIKE ORANGES, THESE LITTLE CITRUS FRUITS HAVE SOUR PULP AND SWEET SKINS. I BRAISED THE BRISKET IN AN IPA, SO TO BALNCE THE BITTERNESS OF THE LIQUID AND THE SOUR NOTE FROM THE KUMQUATS, I ADDED CARROTS. FENNEL, ONION, GARLIC, AND CUMIN ROUND OUT THE FLAVOR PROFILE. THE CARROTS AND KUMQUATS ARE ADDED IN STAGES TO AVOID OVERCOOKING. I WAS HAPPY WITH THE RESULT; HAPPIER STILL THE NEXT DAY, WHEN THE PORK BRISKET, LIKE CLASSIC BEEF BRISKET, ALWAYS TASTES BETTER.
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