SOLE MEUNIÈRE
SOLE MEUNIÈRE IS A FRENCH CLASSIC; A CLASSIC THAT IS ALWAYS MADE WITH DOVER SOLE. WHAT MAKES DOVER SOLE SO SPECIAL IS THAT ASIDE FROM ITS SUCCULENT TASTE, THE TEXTURE OF THE FLESH IS FIRM LIKE TURBOT, WHICH IS IDEAL FOR PAN SAUTÉING THE WHOLE SKINNED FISH. UNTIL A FEW YEARS AGO, HOWEVER, YOU COULDN’T FIND AUTHENTIC DOVER SOLE IN THE U.S. BUT NOW IT TURNS UP AT HIGH-END FISH MONGERS. THE PREPARATION IS SIMPLE BUT PRECISE. DREDGE THE SOLE IS FLOUR AND BROWN ON BOTH SIDES IN CLARIFIED BUTTER. A LITTLE PARSLEY, SOME LEMON WEDGES AND STEAMED FINGERLING POTATOES. THAT’S IT. I WOULDN’T DISCOURAGE A SAUCE BEARNAISE, BUT SOME MIGHT ARGUE THAT’S GILDING THE LILY.
https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/sole-meuniere/
LIVER AND ONIONS
EVERY COOK HAS HIS OWN PERSONAL HOLY GRAILS. MINE INCLUDE ROAST CHICKEN, POACHED EGGS AND CALF’S LIVER. I GET THE FIRST TWO RIGHT ABOUT 75% OF THE TIME, BUT PERFECTLY-COOKED CALF’S LIVER IS HIT OR MISS, USUALLY MISS. CALF’S LIVER SHOULD BE SEARED-BROWN ON THE OUTSIDE AND PINK ON THE INSIDE. TOO RARE AND IT’S SLIMEY; OVER-COOKED; CHALKY AND TOUGH. WHEN IT HITS THAT SWEET SPOT, HOWEVER, IT IS LUXURIOUS. I TURNED TO MY OLD STANDBY JÖEL ROBUCHON, WHOSE GENIUS LAY IN SIMPLICITY. HIS RECIPE FOR CALF’S LIVER IS THREE DIRECTIONS LONG. ONE OF MY WIFE’S FONDEST MEMORIES IS OF HER DAD’S LIVER AND ONIONS. SO TO ACCOMPANY THE CALF’S LIVER I COOKED DOWN SLICED RED ONIONS AND STIRRED IN A TABLESPOON OF BANYULS VINEGAR. YES, THE DISH TASTED AS GOOD AS IT LOOKS. I GUESS I CAN CHECK CALF’S LIVER OFF MY LIST OF HOLY GRAILS.
https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/liver-and-onions/
LAMB CHOPS SCOTTADITO
IN ITALIAN “SCOTTADITO” MEANS “FINGER-BURNING”, AN APT DESCRIPTION FOR THESE LITTLE RIB CHOPS WHICH ARE PAN-GRILLED ON HIGH HEAT — SCORCHED REALLY — AND SERVED WITH NOTHING MORE THAN LEMON WEDGES. THE PREP FOR THIS RECIPE TAKES ABOUT TEN MINUTES; COOKING THEM, FIVE. AND EVEN IF THEY BURN YOUR FINGERS, THEY’RE KIND OF IRRESISTIBLE.
https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/lamb-chops-scottadito/
BRISKET WITH FRESH HORSERADISH SAUCE
“MY ________ MAKES THE BEST BRISKET I’VE EVER EATEN.” FILL THE BLANK WITH MOTHER, MOTHER-IN-LAW, AUNT IDA, OR GRANDMA SADIE AND YOU’LL HAVE A ROUGH IDEA ABOUT HOW MANY BRISKET RECIPES ARE AVAILABLE JUST FROM YOUR IMMEDIATE FAMILY. DON’T EVEN BOTHER GOOGLING “BRISKET RECIPES” BECAUSE YOU’LL BE READING FOR DAYS. THAT OPENING CLAIM IS USUALLY FOLLOWED BY “AND ALL SHE DOES IS…” IN THIS CASE, HOWEVER, THAT HAPPENS TO BE TRUE. FOR YEARS I’VE MADE BRISKET WITH RED WINE AND/OR HOME-MADE BEEF STOCK. BUT I’VE RECENTLY DISCOVERED A MIRACLE INGREDIENT CALLED WATER. I SUBSTITUTED IT FOR STOCK IN AN UPDATED VERSION OF OXTAIL STEW. BOTH OXTAILS AND BRISKET SHARE COMMON ATTRIBUTES: THEY ARE TOUGH CUTS WHICH REQUIRE LOW AND SLOW COOKING, BRAISING. THEY DRAW FLAVOR FROM THEIR FAT AND, WITH OXTAILS, BONES. SO, ALL I DID WAS BROWN THE BRISKET AND BRAISE IT WITH LOTS OF SLICED ONIONS, GARLIC, A BOUQUET GARNIE, IMMERSED IN, YOU GUESSED IT, WATER. LIKE ALL BRAISES, I COOKED IT AHEAD OF TIME, WHICH ALLOWED ME TO CHILL THE COOKING LIQUID SEPARATELY, REMOVE THE FAT, AND REDUCE THE LIQUID TO AN INTENSELY FLAVORFUL SAUCE. SLICING COLD BRISKET IS A BREEZE. THEN GENTLY REHEAT IT WITH THE SAUCE AND SOME ROOT VEGETABLES, WHICH I PREFER TO COOK SEPARATELY. ANYTHING ELSE? OH, YEAH, PARSLEY. I GUARANTEE YOUR CHILDREN AND GRANDCHILDREN, NIECES AND NEPHEWS WILL BE CITING YOUR RECIPE FOR GENERATIONS TO COME.
CHICKEN AND MUSHROOM SOUP
YOU COULD PROPERLY CALL THIS JUST ANOTHER CHICKEN SOUP, BUT THE RECIPE EVOLVED DURING ITS CREATION. I INTENDED ON MAKING A SOUP WITH THANKSGIVING TURKEY STOCK, LEEKS, CELERY, MUSHROOMS, RICE, AND LEFTOVER CHICKEN. THEN I DECIDED IT NEEDED SOMETHING GREEN AND I’D JUST PICKED UP SOME BEAUTIFUL BABY TATSOI IN THE FARMERS’ MARKET. TO DEEPEN THE FLAVOR A BIT, I ADDED SOME RED MISO FOR UMAMI AND FINALLY, A DASH OF SOY SAUCE. SO, CALL IT WHAT YOU LIKE, BUT IT TURNED OUT TO BE ONE OF THE BEST DISHES I’VE EVER CREATED. TRY IT. YOU’LL LIKE IT! https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/chicken-and-mushroom-soup/
THANKSGIVING. WHAT ELSE?
ONE GREAT THING TO DO WITH THE LEFTOVER TURKEY
IT’S THAT TIME AGAIN AND YOU’RE PROBABLY SATED, NOT YET WITH TURKEY AND ALL THE FIXINGS, BUT THANKSGIVING RECIPES; BOMBARDED IN YOUR NEWSPAPER OF CHOICE, FOOD MAGAZINES, AND WHEREVER YOU SHOP. HAVE YOU ORDERED YOUR PASTURE-RAISED BIRD OR JUST OPTED FOR A BUTTERBALL WITH ITS BUILT-IN POP UP THERMOMETER? SO, JUST TO ADD TO YOUR CONFUSION, I’VE SELECTED A FEW RECIPES FROM THE ARCHIVES, WHICH I OFFER HERE FOR YOUR OWN DELECTATION.
TURKEY
TURKEY GRAVY
CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN
BRUSSELS SPROUTS
CREAMED ONIONS
MASHED POTATOES WITH GARLIC
JOSHUA McFADDEN’S BROCCOLINI
ROESTI POTATOES WITH CREAMED LEEKS
CRISPIEST POTATOES
CREAMED SPINACH
CHICKEN AND MUSHROOM SOUP
POST-THANKSGIVING MY MOTHER ALWAYS MADE TURKEY TETRAZZINI, A NOODLE CASSEROLE CREATED AROUND 1909 BY ERNEST ARBOGAST, CHEF AT THE PALACE HOTEL IN SAN FRANCISCO, IN HONOR OF LUISA TETRAZZINI, THE BELOVED OPERA STAR WHO WAS MAKING HER AMERICAN DEBUT AS GILDA IN RIGOLETTO. IT’S A GREAT WAY TO USE UP ALL THAT LEFT OVER TURKEY, WHICH GROWS DRIER AND LESS APPETIZING BY THE DAY. YOU MAKE A CREAMY SAUCE, FOLD IT IN WITH PRE-COOKED PASTA AND, TOPPED WITH CHEESE AND BREADCRUMBS, FINISH IT IN THE OVEN. I COULDN’T FIND A RECIPE I LIKED SO I MADE ONE UP AS I WENT ALONG. IT WAS A PALPABLE HIT. AND IF NOT AN ORIGINAL, REVISED ENOUGH TO DUB IT TURKEY PLESHETTINI. MANGIARE!
