AROUND THIS TIME LAST YEAR, WE INVITED THREE OF OUR CLOSEST FRIENDS — ESTHER AND THE FALCONS (SANDY AND RUTH) — TO UMBRIA, WHERE WE HAD RENTED A BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED 12TH CENTURY HOUSE, NOT FAR FROM ASSISI, PERUGIA AND GUBBIO. WE INFLICTED A SMALL AMOUNT OF ART ON THEM. FOCUSSING PRIMARILY ON TOURING, EATING AND SHOPPING. THEY HAD A GREAT TEN DAYS AND SO DID WE.
IN AN ATTEMPT TO RECAPTURE THAT SAME CAMARADERIE, SANDY RENTED A HOUSE ON A QUIET STREET IN THE PRESIDIO, WHERE FOR FIVE DAYS, WE DROVE AND UBERED AROUND SAN FRANCISCO, VISITING MUSEUMS, DINING IN A RANGE OF RESTAURANTS, SHOPPING, AND GENERALLY ENJOYING THIS VERY BEAUTIFUL CITY IN PERFECT WEATHER.
SANDY AND RUTH DROVE, WHILE ESTHER, LYNN AND I FLEW. THE FALCONS PICKED US UP AT THE S.F. AIRPORT AND WE ALL DROVE TO THE HOUSE. THE THREE-STORY, SHINGLED TOWNHOUSE WAS ECLECTICALLY FURNISHED BUT ADMIRABLY EQUIPPED. IT FELT LIKE THE FAMILY HAD MOVED OUT JUST IN TIME TO LET US IN. AFTER AN EXCELLENT SANDWICH LUNCH AT ASHLEY, WE FOUND A SMALL, HIGH-END SUPERMARKET AND STOCKED UP FOR BREAKFASTS.
I HAD BEEN DESIGNATED THE FOOD DIRECTOR, THOUGH THE GROUP HAD STIPULATED THEY DIDN’T WANT “FANCY” RESTAURANTS, SO I GENERALLY AVOIDED TASTING MENUS OR PLACES WITH $65 ENTREES. RELYING ON THE NY TIMES 25 BEST RESTAURANTS IN SAN FRANCISCO AND THE INFATUATION.

OUR FIRST DINNER WAS AT A CLASSIC CANTONESE PLACE IN CHINATOWN CALLED R&G LOUNGE. WHY LOUNGE, I HAVEN’T A CLUE. BUT THE DOWNSTAIRS DINING ROOM WAS PACKED WITH MOSTLY CHINESE PEOPLE, FACING MOUNTAINOUS HEAPS OF FRIED DUNGENESS CRAB WASHED DOWN WITH TSING TAO. WE FOLLOWED SUIT, ADDING CRISP AND JUICY PEKING DUCK, SAUTÉED PEA SHOOT LEAVES, PAN FRIED STRING BEANS, AND A LACKLUSTER NOODLE DISH. SO FAR, SO GOOD.
TUESDAY WAS MUSEUM DAY. PAUL McCARTNEY’s PHOTOS WERE AT THE DE YOUNG IN GOLDEN GATE PARK. I SUPPOSE IF ONE WERE A FANATICAL BEATLES FAN, EIGHT ROOMS, CHRONICLING THE FAB FOUR’S APPEARANCES ON FOUR CONTINENTS, BOTH ONSTAGE AND LOUNGING AROUND HOTELS ROOMS WITH THEIR WIVES AND GIRLFRIENDS, WOULD HAVE PROVED RIVETING. BUT PAUL, GREAT MUSICIAN THOUGH HE IS, IS NOT CARTIER BRESSON OR RICHARD AVEDON. SO THREE ROOMS IN MY EYES STARTED GLAZING OVER. JUST BEYOND THE PHOTO SHOW, HOWEVER, WAS A ROOM OF MATISSE CUTOUTS, WHICH I WAS EAGER TO SEE. THAT’S WHEN THE FIRE ALARM WENT OFF AND WE HAD TO EVACUATE THE BUILDING.
THIS TURNED OUT TO BE A MIXED BLESSING, SINCE THE DE YOUNG BORDERS ON THE BOTANICAL GARDENS, WHERE WE WANDERED THROUGH GROVES OF ROMALARIA AND NEW ZEALAND CHRISTMAS TREES.
AFTER A GENERALLY GHASTLY LUNCH AT THE S.F. MUSEUM OF ART, WE TOOK IN THE RUTH AZAWA SHOW. I’VE ALWAYS ADMIRED HER GHOSTLY WOVEN WIRE HANGINGS, BUT THIS EXHIBITION RAISED MY PREVIOUS ESTIMATION. THE PIECES WERE EXQUISITE, DELICATE, HAUNTING, INTRICATE CONSTRUCTIONS WHOSE SHADOWS WERE AS ENGAGING AS THE PIECES THEMSELVES.
TAKING THE TEMPERATURE OF THE GROUP, I DECIDED THIS WAS THE EVENING FOR A SERIOUSLY FILLING MEAL. HOW ABOUT MINNIE BELL’S SOUL MOVEMENT, WHERE MINNIE SERVES UP FLAWLESS FRIED CHICKEN, CORN BREAD, OXTAILS, AND MACK ‘N’ CHEESE, INSPIRED BY HER GREAT AUNT, THE LEGENDARY FERNAY McPHERSON. WE ORDERED SO MUCH FOOD THAT I GAVE OUR TAKEAWAY TO OUR GRATEFUL UBER DRIVER.
WEDNESDAY WAS RUTH’S BIRTHDAY AND SHE HAD FOND MEMORIES OF ZUNI CAFE FROM A PREVIOUS LIFETIME. OUR FRIENDS CLAUDIA AND ANTHONY FLEW UP FROM L.A. TO JOIN THE CELEBRATION, WHICH WAS APPROPRIATELY DRUNKEN AND LIVELY. BY THE TIME WE WERE SEATED EVERYONE WAS HIGH ON ONE THING OR ANOTHER, SO ZUNI’S LEGENDARY ROAST CHICKEN, WHICH TAKES 75 MINUTES TO MAKE AND COSTS A DOLLAR A MINUTE, ARRIVED AS WE WERE ALL FADING. I CAN’T SAY IT WAS WORTH THE WAIT. YOU’D THINK IF YOU’RE ROASTING A WHOLE CHICKEN IN REAL TIME AND HAVE BEEN DOING SO FOR 45 YEARS, IT WOULD ARRIVE PERFECTLY COOKED RATHER THAN TOUGH WITH DRY WHITE MEAT.
THE NEXT DAY, THURSDAY, OUR OLD FRIEND POLLY FRIZZEL AND HER FRIEND GEORGIA PICKED US UP AND DROVE US ACROSS THE OAKLAND BAY BRIDGE TO CHEZ PANISSE IN BERKLEY. WE ATE UPSTAIRS IN THE CAFE, WHICH OVER THE COURSE OF SEVERAL VISITS HAS NEVER DISAPPOINTED. THIS MEAL WAS NO EXCEPTION. BRIGHT AND CRUNCHY SALADS: ONE WITH BAKED CHEVRE; THE OTHER, WITH MARINATED BEETS, CARROTS AND PISTACHIOS. HALIBUT WITH SNAP PEAS. LOIN OF PORK ROASTED WITH CUMIN AND A JUICY HALF CHICKEN AL MATTONE WITH SPINACH AND PEA SHOOTS. A CHOCOLATE MOUSSE. AN EXQUISITE CHERRY TART. ALL WASHED DOWN WITH AN EXPENSIVE BUT SAVORY ALSATIAN RIESLING.
FRIDAY, OUR LAST DAY, WAS DEVOTED TO SHOPPING AND WANDERING AROUND THE FUNKY NEIGHBORHOOD OF NORTH BEACH, WHERE THERE ARE MORE PIZZA JOINTS PER BLOCK THAN ANY BLOCK IN PALERMO. LUNCH WAS CIOPPINO AT SOTTO MARE; PLENTY ENOUGH FOR TWO IN THE RATHER GRIM DOWNSTAIRS ANNEX, BUT DELICIOUS NEVERTHELESS.
OUR FINAL MEAL, I’D RESERVED A TABLE AT AZIZA, WHERE LYNN AND I HAD EATEN YEARS BEFORE BUT WAS STILL ON THE TOP OF EVERYONE’S RECOMMENDED LISTS, INCLUDING THE MICHELIN. THE RESTAURANT HAD GROWN LARGER AND MORE REFINED THAN I’D REMEMBERED, BUT THE ROOM, THE SERVICE, THE FOOD WAS BETTER THAN EVER. THE DISHES ARE INSPIRED BY MOROCCO, WITH CLASSICS SUCH AS CHICKEN BASTEEYA AND BRAISED LAMB SHANK AND SOME TRUE INVENTIONS SUCH AS BURRATA WITH TOMATO JAM AND GREEN SHAKSHUKA WITH LEEKS, SPINACH AND FETA. THE CORN BREAD WAS AS MUCH PUDDING AS BREAD; THE BROCCOLINI, CRISP AND FLAVORED WITH PRESERVED LEMON. A SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WAS FULL-BODIED AND ELEGANT. AZIZA WAS A FITTING ENDING TO A JOLLY FIVE DAYS.
SATURDAY MORNING, WE ALL PILED INTO THE FALCON’S HONDA AND MADE IT BACK TO L.A. IN SEVEN HOURS, WITH A STOP OFF IN PASO ROBLES FOR HAMBURGERS AND BEER.
WE’RE ALREADY PLANNING NEXT YEAR’S EXCURSION. WE’RE OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS. Z