NEW YORK RESTAURANTS, AUGUST 2025

THESE ARE THE BEST OF THE RESTAURANTS WHERE WE ATE ON OUR MOST RECENT NEW YORK VISIT. SOME, LIKE ESTELA, CI SIAMO AND NOUGATINE ARE OLD FAVORITES; OTHERS, DISCOVERIES. THEY ALL WERE GOOD. IN FACT, I’D SAY THAT FOR RESTAURANTS AT THIS LEVEL, NEW YORK IS CURRENTLY THE BEST FOOD CITY IN THE U.S.A.

NOUGATINE (1 CENTRAL PARK WEST) IS THE SLIGHTLY LESS EXPENSIVE OF TWO JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN ESTABLISHMENTS IN THE SAME LOCATION. WE’VE BEEN SEVERAL TIMES AND, UNLIKE A REAL RESTAURANT CRITIC, OFTEN ORDER THE SAME THINGS. LYNN CANNOT RESIST THE FIRST COURSE FOIE GRAS, TOPPED WITH A HARD CARAMEL LIKE A CRÉME BRULÉE. MORE THAN ONCE, I’VE ORDERED THE DOVER SOLE. PERFECTLY COOKED, THE FILLETED BONE DEEP FRIED PERCHED LIKE A SAIL ON TOP OF THE FISH AND ACCOMPANIED BY A BEARNAISE OR A LEMONY BEURRE BLANC. THIS TRIP I OPTED FOR A LOBSTER DISH, CHUNKS OF POACHED LOBSTER NESTLED AMONG SNAP PEAS AND FRESH TARRAGON. THE FRITTO MISTO, BOTH GENEROUS and CRUNCHY, is LIGHT AS A FEATHER. TUNA TARTARE IS ALWAYS A GOOD BET. JEAN-GEORGES CLAIMS HE INVENTED THE MOLTEN CHOCOLATE CAKE, BUT EVEN IF THAT HONOR GOES TO MICHEL BRAS, NOUGATINE’S IS ABOUT AS GREAT AS IT GETS. EXCELLENT WINE LIST. WE USUALLY GET A RIESLING. THE ROOM ITSELF WHICH LOOKS OUT ON CENTRAL PARK WEST MANAGES TO BE BOTH SPACIOUS AND COZY WITH ELEGANT FURNISHINGS AND IMPECCABLE SERVICE. OPEN LUNCH AND DINNER.

ESTELA (47 E. HOUSTON) WAS IGNACIO MATTOS’ FIRST NEW YORK RESTAURANT AND WE ALWAYS GO BACK. MATTOS’ FOOD IS INVENTIVE AND STARTLING WITHOUT BEING WEIRD. IT’S A CONSTANTLY CHANGING MENU WHICH BOWS TO THE SEASONS AND EXPERIMENTS WITH TASTE COMBINATIONS WHICH MAY LOOK ODD ON PAPER BUT NOT IN THE MOUTH. ALWAYS ORDER THE ENDIVE AND WALNUT SALAD, THE PANNA COTTA OR CHOCOLATE CAKE FOR DESSERT. IN BETWEEN, YOU’LL FIND A TEMPTING MEDLEY OF BOTH FISH AND MEAT DISHES. THE RESTAURANT IS ONE FUNKY, SHOTGUN ROOM WITH A BAR UP FRONT WHERE YOU CAN ALSO EAT. SERVICE IS BRISK BUT FRIENDLY AND EFFICIENT. INTERESTING WINE LIST WITH A CHARMING FRENCH SOMMELIER, WHO RHAPSES POETIC DESCRIBING THE SELECTIONS (I COULDN’T UNDERSTAND A WORD). I’D HIGHLY RECOMMEND GOING FOR LUNCH AND NOT DINNER, WHEN THE NOISE LEVEL IS PUNISHING.

CI SIAMO (Hudson yards), part of danny meyer’s empire, is perched on the second floor overlooking the plaza below. The space, which snakes from the entrance into the main dining room, is clad in curved wood, high-ceilinged and elegant. It ends at the open kitchen where chef Hillary sterling creates her northern Italian inspired creations, which are still very much her own such as the caramelized onion torta, crisp and gooey with melted cheese. it’s almost a meal in itself. The vegetable dishes – braised beans with parmesan and olives; grilled string beans with basil and chiles; trumpet mushrooms, leeks and walnuts – would make a satisfying meal in itself. But then you’d miss out on the stracci pasta with rabbit and vin cotto, the cavatelli with crab and chili, the olive oil poached orata with scallops and zucchini or the braised lamb with potatoes and celery pesto. As I recall, we were too stuffed for dessert but did manage to polish off an excellent vermentino. As in all danny meyer restaurants, the service in incomparable.

MANUELA (130 PRINCE STREET) WAS WHERE WE AT WITH JANET AND JOHN WARREN, IS JUST ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE THEIR DAUGHTER MADELEINE’S HAUSER&WIRTH GALLERY. IT’S A FABULOUS SPACE WITH CRAZY BUT COMFORTABLE TABLES AND CHAIRS AND ARTWORK ALL OVER THE PLACE. FOODWISE, IT’S BETTER THAN THE MANUELA IN L.A., BUT A CUT BELOW MY OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS, SIMPLY BECAUSE THE DISHES THOUGH WELL-EXECUTED ARE NOT AS IMAGINATIVE AS ESTELA’S OR SI CIAMO’S. SO YOU GET YOUR WELLFLEET OYSTERS, FLUKE CRUDO, HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD, CHICORIES WITH PEARS, WALNUTS AND BLUE CHEESE, OR TUNA CARPACCIO FIRST COURSES; DAYBOAT SCALLOPS, HONEY GLAZED DUCK BREAST, PAN SEARED HALIBUT OR DUROC PORK CHOP, FOR MAIN COURSES. EVERYTHING’S GOOD BUT NOTHING KNOCKS YOU OUT OR SURPRISES. YOU MIGHT OPT FOR LUNCH SINCE PRINCE IS THE SOHO SHOPPING STREET.

KOLOMAN (16 WEST 29^TH, ACE HOTEL). I WAS ABOUT TO RECOMMEND THIS VIENNESE-INFLECETED RESTAURANT, WHERE WE HAD AN EXCELLENT MEAL, BUT ACCORDING TO GOOGLE IT HAS PERMANENTLY CLOSED.

OTHER OPTIONS

LE VEAU D’OR, resurrected by the same group which opened frenchette in tribeca, is a TOUGH TICKET, BUT IT MIGHT BE WORTH A SHOT. FRENCHETTE IS EXCELLENT – A HIGH-END BISTRO – PARTICULARLY IF YOU’RE NEARBY, SHOPPING OR VISITING THE WHITNEY.

L’ARTUSI (228 WEST 10^TH) SERVES SERIOUSLY GREAT ITALIAN FOOD. WE’VE EATEN THERE SEVERAL TIMES AND ALWAYS HAD A GREAT MEAL. THE DISHES ARE UNFUSSY AND EXCELLENT – EVERYTHING FROM SCALLOP CRUDO OR GRILLED OCTOPUS TO HANGER STEAK OR BRANZINO. THEIR PASTAS ARE SUPERB. FUN, CASUAL ATMOSPHERE. I’D RECOMMEND EATING UPSTAIRS WHERE IT’S QUIETER.

CAFÉ SABARSKY (neue galerie, 86^th and fifth), where you should go anyway to see the heckle show and the best german expressionist collection in town. Light Viennese fare, excellent salads and pastries.

This should get you started. I’d check the nyt best restaurant list as well. Lots of places we haven’t tried.

BRAISED LAMB SHOULDER WITH MIXED VEGETABLES AND SALSA VERDE

DAVID LEBOVITZ IS AN AMERICAN CHEF AND FOOD WRITER WHO LIVES IN PARIS. QUITE OFTEN HE GETS RECIPES FROM HIS PURVEYORS AT THE FARMERS MARKETS, HIS BUTCHER, BAKER AND CANDLESTICK MAKER. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE FROM MY PARIS KITCHEN IS SANS ATTRIBUTION. I’VE MADE SOME ADJUSTMENTS, ELIMINATED THE CHICKPEA PUFFS, BUT THIS DISH IS ASSUREDLY HIS. I LOVE BRAISED MEAT DISHES, PARTIALLY BECAUSE THEY MAKE USE OF OTHERWISE UNUSABLE CUTS– OXTAIL, SHOULDER, NECK, AND BUTT. AND THESE ARE ALSO THE MOST FLAVORFUL. THEY ENTAIL LONG, SLOW COOKING TO BREAK DOWN ALL THAT DELICIOUS CONNECTIVE TISSUE. THE MOST VARIED AND ATTRACTIVE ACCOMPANIMENT TO THE LAMB IS A MEDLEY OF VEGETABLES AND HERE THE CHOICE IS UP TO YOU. LEBOVITZ INCLUDES A RECIPE FOR SALSA VERDE, A NICE TOUCH SINCE THE TARTNESS OF THE SAUCE CUTS THROUGH THE SWEETNESS OF THE LAMB. EXCEPT FOR THE VEGETABLES, THIS DISH IS PROBABLY BEST COOKED A DAY AHEAD. ASSEMBLING AND SERVING, I WARN YOU IS A BIT OF A PUZZLE, SINCE YOU CAN’T REALLY CARVE A BONE-IN LAMB SHOULDER; YOU HAVE TO DISMANTLE IT. BELIEVE ME, IT’S WORTH THE EFFORT. THIS IS A GREAT DISH FOR COMPANY AND, IF YOU’RE LUCKY, THEY’LL LEAVE YOU SOME LEFTOVERS.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/braised-lamb-with-vegetables/

ASPARAGUS WITH TOMATOES, GRILLED PEPPERS AND BURRATA

THERE IS ONE STAND AT THE FARMERS MARKET THAT SELLS THUMB-THICK ASPARAGUS, WHICH I MUCH PREFER TO THE PENCIL-THIN ONES. YOU HAVE TO PEEL THEM, AN EASY TASK, WHICH GIVES YOU MORE BANG FOR YOUR BUCK. TOMATOES COULDN’T BE BETTER. I HAD SOME LEFTOVER PEPPERS AND A COUPLE OF SMALL BURRATAS. COMBINE ALL OF THOSE INGREDIENTS, SPLASH THEM WITH A GOOD OLIVE OIL, SCATTER THEM WITH FRESH BASIL AND WHAT HAVE YOU GOT? DINNER.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/asparagus-tomatoes-peppers-burrata/ ‎

GRILLED SHRIMP SALAD WITH SPINACH AND FETA

SUMMER LINGERS IN L.A. THROUGH OCTOBER AND SUMMER IS A TIME FOR SALADS. PRODUCE — TOMATOES, SPINACH, SUMMER SQUASH, PEACHES, MELON — ALSO LINGER IN THE FARMERS MARKETS. THIS SPINACH SALAD IS A MELANGE OF LARDONS, GRILLED ONIONS, TOMATOES, AND FETA TOPPED WITH SAUTÉED SHRIMP. IT CHECKS OFF ALL THE KEY FLAVORS– SALTY, SWEET, AND SAVORY. MOST EVERYTHING CAN BE PREPARED IN ADVANCE, EXCEPT THE SHRIMP, WHICH OFFER A WARM AND CRUNCHY CONTRAST TO THE SPINACH AND TOMATOES, MINIMIZING YOUR TIME AT A HOT STOVE AND MAXIMIZING THE TASTES OF SUMMER. https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/grilled-shrimp-with-spinach-and-feta/

PASTA WITH RADICCHIO AND TALEGGIO

RADICCHIO IS A MOST VERSATILE CABBAGE. WITH ITS CRUNCHY TEXTURE AND SLIGHTLY BITTER TASTE, IT’S EXCELLENT FOR SALADS, PARTICULARLY ONE WITH A BLUE CHEESE DRESSING. YOU CAN PAN COOK IT WITH GARLIC OR ONIONS TO SERVE AS A SIDE DISH. IN THIS RECIPE, IT FORMS THE BASE FOR A PASTA DISH. TO BROWNED PIECES OF GUANCIALE, I ADDED THE RADICCHIO. THEN, TO GIVE IT SOME BODY AND OFFSET THE BITTERNESS, GARLIC AND TALEGGIO, A SEMI-SOFT ITALIAN CHEESE, WHICH MELTED INTO THE PASTA, LENDING IT A CREAMY, LUXURIOUS TEXTURE.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/pasta-with-radicchio/

TEMPURA DINNER

I HAVE A WEAKNESS FOR SOFTSHELL CRABS, SO EVEN AT $20 A POP, I COULDN’T RESIST BUYING TWO FOR MYSELF AND SHRIMP FOR LYNN, WHO DOES NOT SHARE MY PASSION FOR THESE FORMIDABLE DELICACIES. I’VE PAN FRIED SOFTSHELLS, EITHER FLOUR-DREDGED OR PLAIN. I’VE BROILED THEM WITH NOTHING MORE THAN SALT, PEPPER AND OLIVE OIL. BUT MY CURRENT INTEREST IN WOK COOKING INSPIRED ME TO DEEP-FRY THEM, TEMPURA STYLE. I HAD A SMALL AMOUNT OF BROCCOLINI ALONG WITH AN UNCOOKED ZUCCHINI AND SCALLIONS, SO I ADDED THEM TO THE MIX. FOR THE BATTER ITSELF, I TURNED TO KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT’S RECIPE FROM THE WOK. YOU CAN ALSO BUY TEMPURA BATTER IN ANY ASIAN MARKET. REFRIGERATE IT. IT KEEPS FOREVER. THE WOK IS THE IDEAL FRYING VESSLE, BUT YOU CAN CERTAINLY ACCOMPLISH THE SAME THING USING A DUTCH OVEN. ONCE YOU’VE ADDED THE LIQUID TO THE BATTER, YOU MUST WORK QUICKLY, BUT THE RESULT IS CRISPY AND SUCCULENT SOFTSHELLS, SHRIMP AND VEGETABLES. A REAL TREAT!

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/

CHICKEN THIGHS WITH LOTS OF GARLIC

CHICKEN WITH 40 CLOVES OF GARLIC MAY HAVE BEEN INVENTED BY EITHER JAMES BEARD OR JULIA CHILD BEFORE INA GARTEN PUBLISHED HER OWN VERSION. SUCH IS THE FATE OF CLASSIC RECIPES. SO I’M THROWING MY TOQUE IN THE RING AND OFFER YOU MY OWN INTERPRETATION. THE ORIGINAL RECIPE CALLS FOR A ROAST CHICKEN, BAKED WITH LOTS OF WHOLE GARLIC CLOVES, WHICH ARE TRANSFORMED INTO A SAUCE FOR THE CHICKEN. I PAN-COOKED A BUNCH OF THIGHS, ADDED THE GARLIC HALFWAY THROUGH AND MASHED THE COOKED CLOVES TO MAKE THE SAUCE. IF YOU PREFER THE BEARD/CHILD/GARTEN METHOD, BE MY GUEST. BUT THIS ONE’S QUICK AND EASY, SO YOU MIGHT WANT TO GIVE IT A SHOT.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/chicken-with-lots-of-garlic/

WE LEFT OUR STOMACHS IN SAN FRANCISCOO

AROUND THIS TIME LAST YEAR, WE INVITED THREE OF OUR CLOSEST FRIENDS — ESTHER AND THE FALCONS (SANDY AND RUTH) — TO UMBRIA, WHERE WE HAD RENTED A BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED 12TH CENTURY HOUSE, NOT FAR FROM ASSISI, PERUGIA AND GUBBIO. WE INFLICTED A SMALL AMOUNT OF ART ON THEM. FOCUSSING PRIMARILY ON TOURING, EATING AND SHOPPING. THEY HAD A GREAT TEN DAYS AND SO DID WE.

IN AN ATTEMPT TO RECAPTURE THAT SAME CAMARADERIE, SANDY RENTED A HOUSE ON A QUIET STREET IN THE PRESIDIO, WHERE FOR FIVE DAYS, WE DROVE AND UBERED AROUND SAN FRANCISCO, VISITING MUSEUMS, DINING IN A RANGE OF RESTAURANTS, SHOPPING, AND GENERALLY ENJOYING THIS VERY BEAUTIFUL CITY IN PERFECT WEATHER.

SANDY AND RUTH DROVE, WHILE ESTHER, LYNN AND I FLEW. THE FALCONS PICKED US UP AT THE S.F. AIRPORT AND WE ALL DROVE TO THE HOUSE. THE THREE-STORY, SHINGLED TOWNHOUSE WAS ECLECTICALLY FURNISHED BUT ADMIRABLY EQUIPPED. IT FELT LIKE THE FAMILY HAD MOVED OUT JUST IN TIME TO LET US IN. AFTER AN EXCELLENT SANDWICH LUNCH AT ASHLEY, WE FOUND A SMALL, HIGH-END SUPERMARKET AND STOCKED UP FOR BREAKFASTS.

I HAD BEEN DESIGNATED THE FOOD DIRECTOR, THOUGH THE GROUP HAD STIPULATED THEY DIDN’T WANT “FANCY” RESTAURANTS, SO I GENERALLY AVOIDED TASTING MENUS OR PLACES WITH $65 ENTREES. RELYING ON THE NY TIMES 25 BEST RESTAURANTS IN SAN FRANCISCO AND THE INFATUATION.

OUR FIRST DINNER WAS AT A CLASSIC CANTONESE PLACE IN CHINATOWN CALLED R&G LOUNGE. WHY LOUNGE, I HAVEN’T A CLUE. BUT THE DOWNSTAIRS DINING ROOM WAS PACKED WITH MOSTLY CHINESE PEOPLE, FACING MOUNTAINOUS HEAPS OF FRIED DUNGENESS CRAB WASHED DOWN WITH TSING TAO. WE FOLLOWED SUIT, ADDING CRISP AND JUICY PEKING DUCK, SAUTÉED PEA SHOOT LEAVES, PAN FRIED STRING BEANS, AND A LACKLUSTER NOODLE DISH. SO FAR, SO GOOD.

TUESDAY WAS MUSEUM DAY. PAUL McCARTNEY’s PHOTOS WERE AT THE DE YOUNG IN GOLDEN GATE PARK. I SUPPOSE IF ONE WERE A FANATICAL BEATLES FAN, EIGHT ROOMS, CHRONICLING THE FAB FOUR’S APPEARANCES ON FOUR CONTINENTS, BOTH ONSTAGE AND LOUNGING AROUND HOTELS ROOMS WITH THEIR WIVES AND GIRLFRIENDS, WOULD HAVE PROVED RIVETING. BUT PAUL, GREAT MUSICIAN THOUGH HE IS, IS NOT CARTIER BRESSON OR RICHARD AVEDON. SO THREE ROOMS IN MY EYES STARTED GLAZING OVER. JUST BEYOND THE PHOTO SHOW, HOWEVER, WAS A ROOM OF MATISSE CUTOUTS, WHICH I WAS EAGER TO SEE. THAT’S WHEN THE FIRE ALARM WENT OFF AND WE HAD TO EVACUATE THE BUILDING.

THIS TURNED OUT TO BE A MIXED BLESSING, SINCE THE DE YOUNG BORDERS ON THE BOTANICAL GARDENS, WHERE WE WANDERED THROUGH GROVES OF ROMALARIA AND NEW ZEALAND CHRISTMAS TREES.

AFTER A GENERALLY GHASTLY LUNCH AT THE S.F. MUSEUM OF ART, WE TOOK IN THE RUTH AZAWA SHOW. I’VE ALWAYS ADMIRED HER GHOSTLY WOVEN WIRE HANGINGS, BUT THIS EXHIBITION RAISED MY PREVIOUS ESTIMATION. THE PIECES WERE EXQUISITE, DELICATE, HAUNTING, INTRICATE CONSTRUCTIONS WHOSE SHADOWS WERE AS ENGAGING AS THE PIECES THEMSELVES.

TAKING THE TEMPERATURE OF THE GROUP, I DECIDED THIS WAS THE EVENING FOR A SERIOUSLY FILLING MEAL. HOW ABOUT MINNIE BELL’S SOUL MOVEMENT, WHERE MINNIE SERVES UP FLAWLESS FRIED CHICKEN, CORN BREAD, OXTAILS, AND MACK ‘N’ CHEESE, INSPIRED BY HER GREAT AUNT, THE LEGENDARY FERNAY McPHERSON. WE ORDERED SO MUCH FOOD THAT I GAVE OUR TAKEAWAY TO OUR GRATEFUL UBER DRIVER.

WEDNESDAY WAS RUTH’S BIRTHDAY AND SHE HAD FOND MEMORIES OF ZUNI CAFE FROM A PREVIOUS LIFETIME. OUR FRIENDS CLAUDIA AND ANTHONY FLEW UP FROM L.A. TO JOIN THE CELEBRATION, WHICH WAS APPROPRIATELY DRUNKEN AND LIVELY. BY THE TIME WE WERE SEATED EVERYONE WAS HIGH ON ONE THING OR ANOTHER, SO ZUNI’S LEGENDARY ROAST CHICKEN, WHICH TAKES 75 MINUTES TO MAKE AND COSTS A DOLLAR A MINUTE, ARRIVED AS WE WERE ALL FADING. I CAN’T SAY IT WAS WORTH THE WAIT. YOU’D THINK IF YOU’RE ROASTING A WHOLE CHICKEN IN REAL TIME AND HAVE BEEN DOING SO FOR 45 YEARS, IT WOULD ARRIVE PERFECTLY COOKED RATHER THAN TOUGH WITH DRY WHITE MEAT.

THE NEXT DAY, THURSDAY, OUR OLD FRIEND POLLY FRIZZEL AND HER FRIEND GEORGIA PICKED US UP AND DROVE US ACROSS THE OAKLAND BAY BRIDGE TO CHEZ PANISSE IN BERKLEY. WE ATE UPSTAIRS IN THE CAFE, WHICH OVER THE COURSE OF SEVERAL VISITS HAS NEVER DISAPPOINTED. THIS MEAL WAS NO EXCEPTION. BRIGHT AND CRUNCHY SALADS: ONE WITH BAKED CHEVRE; THE OTHER, WITH MARINATED BEETS, CARROTS AND PISTACHIOS. HALIBUT WITH SNAP PEAS. LOIN OF PORK ROASTED WITH CUMIN AND A JUICY HALF CHICKEN AL MATTONE WITH SPINACH AND PEA SHOOTS. A CHOCOLATE MOUSSE. AN EXQUISITE CHERRY TART. ALL WASHED DOWN WITH AN EXPENSIVE BUT SAVORY ALSATIAN RIESLING.

FRIDAY, OUR LAST DAY, WAS DEVOTED TO SHOPPING AND WANDERING AROUND THE FUNKY NEIGHBORHOOD OF NORTH BEACH, WHERE THERE ARE MORE PIZZA JOINTS PER BLOCK THAN ANY BLOCK IN PALERMO. LUNCH WAS CIOPPINO AT SOTTO MARE; PLENTY ENOUGH FOR TWO IN THE RATHER GRIM DOWNSTAIRS ANNEX, BUT DELICIOUS NEVERTHELESS.

OUR FINAL MEAL, I’D RESERVED A TABLE AT AZIZA, WHERE LYNN AND I HAD EATEN YEARS BEFORE BUT WAS STILL ON THE TOP OF EVERYONE’S RECOMMENDED LISTS, INCLUDING THE MICHELIN. THE RESTAURANT HAD GROWN LARGER AND MORE REFINED THAN I’D REMEMBERED, BUT THE ROOM, THE SERVICE, THE FOOD WAS BETTER THAN EVER. THE DISHES ARE INSPIRED BY MOROCCO, WITH CLASSICS SUCH AS CHICKEN BASTEEYA AND BRAISED LAMB SHANK AND SOME TRUE INVENTIONS SUCH AS BURRATA WITH TOMATO JAM AND GREEN SHAKSHUKA WITH LEEKS, SPINACH AND FETA. THE CORN BREAD WAS AS MUCH PUDDING AS BREAD; THE BROCCOLINI, CRISP AND FLAVORED WITH PRESERVED LEMON. A SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WAS FULL-BODIED AND ELEGANT. AZIZA WAS A FITTING ENDING TO A JOLLY FIVE DAYS.

SATURDAY MORNING, WE ALL PILED INTO THE FALCON’S HONDA AND MADE IT BACK TO L.A. IN SEVEN HOURS, WITH A STOP OFF IN PASO ROBLES FOR HAMBURGERS AND BEER.

WE’RE ALREADY PLANNING NEXT YEAR’S EXCURSION. WE’RE OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS. Z

FISH FRY

MOST OF THE TIME, I PAN ROAST FISH, BUT WITH THE LAST OF THE LING COD OF THE SEASON, I HAD A HANKERING FOR FRIED FISH; JUST A LIGHT CRUST ON THE OUTSIDE TO SEAL IN THE FLAVOR AND THE ENTICING CRUNCH THAT YOU ONLY GET WITH FRYING. THIS IS AN ALARMINGLY SIMPLE RECIPE, HARDLY ANY PREP, SO I URGE YOU TO GO TO THE TROUBLE OF USING HOMEMADE BREADCRUMBS WHICH ADD A DIMENSION OF FLAVOR MISSING FROM THE STORE-BOUGHT VERSION. I SERVED THE FRIED COD WITH BABY JAPANESE TURNIPS POACHED IN WATER AND BUTTER. RICE OR STEAMED NEW POTATOES BOTH MAKE GOOD SUBSTITUTES, BUT THESE SPRING TURNIPS ARE IRRESISTABLY SWEET.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/fish-fry/

FRICO

FRICOS, WHICH ORIGINATE IN FRUILI, ARE LITTLE DISKS OF CHEESE, MELTED TO A CRISP. YOU CAN SERVE THEM WHOLE AND SERVE THEM WITH TOMATO SOUP OR A SALAD. OR, YOU CAN CRUMBLE AND SCATTER THEM OVER PRACTICALLY ANYTHING. THEY STORE NICELY SO YOU CAN MAKE THEM AHEAD OF TIME OR STORE THEM IN A TIN FOR FUTURE USE. THEY’RE RIDICULOUSLY SIMPLE TO MAKE. YOU JUST HAVE TO KEEP A SHARP EYE OUT DURING THE BAKING– TOO LITTLE AND THEY’RE LEATHERY; OVERCOOKED, THEY HAVE A BITTER TASTE. WHEN PERFECTLY MADE, HOWEVER, THEY ARE AN UNEXPECTED TREAT. THIS RECIPE WAS ADAPTED FROM THE SIX SEASONS COOKBOOK.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/frico/

CHUPE DE CAMARONES AT MARIO'S

October 31, 2025 No Comments

KOLOMAN (16 WEST 29^TH, ACE HOTEL). I WAS ABOUT TO RECOMMEND THIS VIENNESE-INFLECETED RESTAURANT, WHERE WE HAD AN EXCELLENT MEAL, BUT ACCORDING TO GOOGLE IT HAS PERMANENTLY CLOSED.

OTHER OPTIONS

This should get you started. I’d check the nyt best restaurant list as well. Lots of places we haven’t tried.

L.O. CHICKEN TARRGON

I PROBABLY SHOULD WRITE A LEFTOVER CHICKEN COOKBOOK. I LOVE ROAST CHICKEN BUT BECAUSE I’M USUALLY COOKING FOR TWO, THERE’S ALWAYS A LOT OF LEFTOVER CHICKEN, MOSTLY WHITE MEAT SINCE BOTH LYNN AND I PREFER THIGHS TO BREASTS. WHITE MEAT DOESN’T TAKE WELL TO MORE COOKING, WHICH TOUGHENS IT AND DRIES IT OUT. SO, ONE IS LEFT WITH THREE OPTIONS– CHICKEN SALAD, CHICKEN SOUP AND CHICKEN IS SOME KIND OF SAUCE, WHICH GOES WELL OVER PASTA OR RICE. THIS IS ONE OF THOSE INVENTIONS AND ONE OF THE SIMPLEST. MAKE A SAUCE WITH LEEKS AND GARLIC. ADD A GENEROUS QUANTITY OF CRÉME FRAÎCHE, AND LOTS OF FRESH TARRAGON, FOLD IN THE LEFTOVER CHICKEN, HEAT GENTLY AND SERVE OVER PASTA. YOU’LL PROBABLY HAVE ENOUGH FOR FOUR. YOU MIGHT EVEN HAVE SOME LEFTOVERS.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/l-o-chicken-tarragon/

BUCATINI WITH MUSHROOMS AND SUGAR SNAP PEAS

I SPOTTED THESE INTRIGUING LITTLE MUSHROOMS WITH THEIR ROUND NUBBY CAPS AND LONG STEMS AT A STAND IN THE FARMERS MARKET WHICH SELLS SEVERAL VARIETIES OF EXOTIC CULTIVATED MUSHROOMS. THEIR FIRM TEXTURE ALLOWS THEM TO STAND UP TO PAN COOKING WITH THE UMAMI OF SOME WILD MUSHROOMS. I DON’T KNOW THEIR NAME, BUT I CAN FIND OUT. SHITAKES WOULD BE A FAIR SUBSTITUTE. SO WOULD SMALL BROWN BUTTON MUSHROOMS. IN ANY CASE, I SAUTÉED THEM WITH GREEN GARLIC AND LEEKS, DEGLAZED THE PAN WITH WHITE WINE AND CHICKEN STOCK, THEN TOSSED IN SUGAR SNAP PEAS FOR THE BRIEFEST OF COOKING BEFORE COMBINING IT WITH BUCATINI. THEN ALL YOU NEED IS FRESHLY-GRATED PARMESAN. SERVED WITH A CRISP WHITE WINE AND YOU’VE GOT THE PERFECT SPRING PASTA.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/bucatini-with-mushrooms-and-sugar-snap-peas/

FENNEL AND BLOOD ORANGE SALAD

CITRUS SEASON IS AT ITS HEIGHT AND THE FARMERS MARKETS ARE BRIGHT WITH MANDARINS, POMELOS, MEYER LEMONS, AND ALL KINDS OF ORANGES — NAVEL, CARA CARA AND BLOODS. I’VE BEEN SQUEEZING THEM EVERY MORNING FOR BREAKFAST, MAKING CITRUS SALADS, INCORPORATING THEM IN BRAISES AND EATING THEM FOR DESSERT. THIS PARTICULAR RECIPE COMBINES BLOOD ORANGES AND SLICED FENNEL. THEN ALL YOU NEED IS GOOD OLIVE OIL, SOME FRESH PARSLEY OR DILL AND SHAVINGS OF PARMESAN. AESTHETICALLY, IT MAKES FOR A CHEERFUL AND FLAVORFUL FIRST COURSE SALAD.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/blood-orange-and-fennel-salad/

BEEF SHORT RIBS

SHORT RIBS, LIKE ITS BONE-IN COUSIN OXTAIL, IS A TOUGH CUT WHICH WITH LONG AND GENTLE BRAISING YIELDS DEEPLY FLAVORFUL MEAT WITHOUT LOSING ITS TEXTURE. “MEAT IS SWEETEST CLOSE TO THE BONE,” SOMEONE ONCE SAID AND NOTHING COULD BE TRUER IN THE CASE OF SHORT RIBS. IF YOUR BUTCHER HASN’T DONE IT ALREADY, CUT BETWEEN THE RIBS AND BROWN THEM TO A DEEP MAHOGANY BEFORE BRAISING THEM WITH ONIONS, CARROTS, CELERY, GARLIC, TOMATOES, AND A BOUQUET GARNIE. IF YOU WANT A REALLY RICH SAUCE, THEN USE RED WINE AND/OR BEEF STOCK, BUT I PREFER CHICKEN STOCK (HOMEMADE IF YOU’VE GOT IT), WHICH ALLOWS THE MEAT TO ASSERT ITSELF. YOU CAN ADD CARROTS, POTATOES AND ALL MANNER OF ROOT VEGETABLES. OR, IF YOU’RE LAZY, SERVE THEM WITH EGG NOODLES. EITHER WAY, I CAN’T THINK OF A BETTER DISH TO COMBAT THE LINGERING CHILL OF WINTER. https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/beef-short-ribs/

SHRIMP WITH ONIONS, GARLIC AND TOMATOES

COMING UP WITH A NEW RECIPE IS NOT SO MUCH AN ACT OF CULINARY GENIUS AS SIMPLY COMBINING ONE’S FAVORITE INGREDIENTS. AND, IN MY CASE, MAKING THE MOST OF WHAT’S IN MY KITCHEN. I’D ALREADY BOUGHT A POUND OF PINK “COLOSSAL” SHRIMP (AN OXYMORON). I HAD MOST OF A LARGE RED ONION AND A HANDFUL OF EARLY GIRL TOMATOES. THE SHRIMP TAKE ONLY A COUPLE OF MINUTES TO COOK; THE OTHER INGREDIENTS, A BIT LONGER. SO I STARTED WITH THE ONIONS, GARLIC AND TOMATOES, SET THEM ASIDE, WASHED OUT THE PAN AND SAUTÉED THE SHRIMP. I COMBINED THE TOMATO MIXTURE WITH PENNE AND TOPPED IT WITH THE SHRIMP. THE DISH TASTED AS GOOD AS IT LOOKS.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/shrimp-with-onions-garlic-and-tomatoes/

LAMB SERENDIP

MY MOTHER’S FAVORITE WORD WAS SERENDIPITY, A HAPPY ACCIDENT, LIKE TRIPPING ON THE STREET AND LANDING ON A $100 BILL. SUCH WAS THE CASE WHEN I ATTEMPTED A SIMPLE LAMB STEW WITH HERBS AND WHITE WINE VINEGAR. IT IS COOKED ATOP THE STOVE AND WHEN I WENT TO CHECK ITS PROGRESS, FOUND TO MY HORROR THAT THE LIQUID HAD COOKED OFF, LEAVING A CHARRED MESS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE POT. BUT THE LAMB TASTED OKAY, ALTHOUGH IT NEEDED A BIT MORE COOKING. SO I RESCUED THE LAMB AND FINISHED IT WITH CHICKEN STOCK IN A FRESH POT. STILL, IT TASTED TOO STRONGLY OF VINEGAR. THE SOLUTION WAS TO CUT TWO RED ONIONS INTO EIGHTHS, BROWN THEM SEPARATELY AND ADD THEM TO THE POT. THE FINISHED STEW, TEMPERED WITH THE SWEET ONIONS, WAS RICH AND COMPLEX. GOOD ENOUGH TO SHARE WITH YOU.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/lamb-serendip/

SOLE MEUNIÉRE

SOLE MEUNIÈRE IS A FRENCH CLASSIC; A CLASSIC THAT IS ALWAYS MADE WITH DOVER SOLE. WHAT MAKES DOVER SOLE SO SPECIAL IS THAT ASIDE FROM ITS SUCCULENT TASTE, THE TEXTURE OF THE FLESH IS FIRM LIKE TURBOT, WHICH IS IDEAL FOR PAN SAUTÉING THE WHOLE SKINNED FISH. UNTIL A FEW YEARS AGO, HOWEVER, YOU COULDN’T FIND AUTHENTIC DOVER SOLE IN THE U.S. BUT NOW IT TURNS UP AT HIGH-END FISH MONGERS. THE PREPARATION IS SIMPLE BUT PRECISE. DREDGE THE SOLE IS FLOUR AND BROWN ON BOTH SIDES IN CLARIFIED BUTTER. A LITTLE PARSLEY, SOME LEMON WEDGES AND STEAMED FINGERLING POTATOES. THAT’S IT. I WOULDN’T DISCOURAGE A SAUCE BEARNAISE, BUT SOME MIGHT ARGUE THAT’S GILDING THE LILY.

https://johnpleshettemealoftheweek.com/recipes/sole-meuniere/