DUMP THE MORELS IN A SINK FULL OF LUKEWARM WATER. SWIRL THEM AROUND GENTLY TO RINSE AWAY ANY GRIT. LEAVE THEM FOR 15 MINUTES, THEN REMOVE WITH YOUR HANDS AND PLACE IN A COLANDER. AFTER A FEW MINUTES TOSS GENTLY WITH YOUR HANDS TO HELP DRAIN OFF THE WATER.
ARRANGE MORELS ON A WIRE RACK ON TWO LAYERS OF PAPER TOWELS. EITHER PLACE IN THE SUN OR A VERY LOW OVEN FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES UNTIL THEY ARE FAIRLY DRY.
PEEL AND MINCE SHALLOTS. PEEL GARLIC.
MELT 2 TBSPS OF BUTTER AND 2 TBSPS OF OLIVE OIL IN A LARGE SAUCEPAN. WHEN THE BUTTER IS VERY HOT, ADD THE MORELS AND SAUTÉ FOR ABOUT 3 MINUTES.
LOWER HEAT AND ADD MINCED SHALLOTS. COOK, STIRRING GENTLY, FOR ANOTHER MINUTES. ADD THE VIN JAUNE. USING A MICROPLANE, GRATE IN GARLIC.
RAISE THE HEAT AND REDUCE LIQUID BY HALF.
ADD HEAVY CREAM, BRING TO BOIL, REDUCE TO A SIMMER. SEASON WITH SALT AND WHITE PEPPER. REMOVE THE MORELS WITH A SLOTTED SPOON AND PLACE IN A BOWL.
COOK DOWN THE CREAM SAUCE TILL IT HAS THE CONSISTENCY OF HOLLANDAISE. ADD 4 TBSPS OF CRÊME FRAÎCHE AND PARMESAN CHEESE. COOK FOR ANOTHER MINUTE OR SO.
FOLD MORELS INTO THE SAUCE. STIR GENTLY. CORRECT SEASONING. SCATTER WITH MINCED CHIVES AND/OR TARRAGON.
SERVES 6