MY FATHER, WHOSE DOCTOR’S OFFICE WAS ON FIFTH AVENUE, WOULD PRAY FOR RAIN ON ST. PATRICK’S DAY. OUR GENERATION HAS A MORE BENIGN ATTITUDE TOWARDS THE IRISH. SO FOR ST. PATRICK’S DAY DINNER WITH TWO GUESTS OF IRISH EXTRACTION AT OUR TABLE, MY WIFE, WHOSE FAMILY MADE CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE FOR THANKSGIVING, URGED ME TO COOK THE SAME DISH.
TWO FACTORS CLINCHED THE DECISION: THE APPEARANCE IN THE MEAT DISPLAY AT McCALL’S OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CORNED BEEF FLOATING IN A SEALED BAG WITH ALL THE SEASONINGS AND A TEMPTING RECIPE BY SUZANNE GOIN IN HER SUNDAY SUPPERS AT LUCQUES. MS. GOIN SIMMERS THE CORNED BEEF IN WATER, BRINE AND SEASONINGS AND FINISHES IT OFF IN A HOT OVEN, SO THE TOP FAT MELTS AND THE MEAT BROWNS A BIT. THE VEGETABLES ARE POACHED SEPARATELY IN THE FLAVORFUL BROTH. SHE SERVES THE CORNED BEEF WITH A MUSTARD-SPIKED PARSLEY SAUCE. WITH A FEW MINOR CHANGES, I ADHERED TO HER RECIPE. THE RESULT WAS SPECTACULAR. RARELY HAVE I GOTTEN SO MANY COMPLIMENTS. EVEN THE IRISH WERE HAPPY.
