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RECENT RECIPES

11
Jul

PAPPARDELLE WITH WHITE RAGU

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FOR OUR LAST MEAL IN MILAN, WE ATE AT A HIP TRATTORIA IN THE NAVIGLI DISTRICT CALLED LA TRIPPA, WHERE LYNN ORDERED A WHITE LAMB RAGU.  MADE WITHOUT THE ASSERTIVE TASTE OF  TOMATO, THE MEAT HAD A DELICATE FLAVOR, PERFUMED SUBTLY WITH WHAT I THOUGHT WAS ROSEMARY AND PERHAPS THYME.  I TRIED RE-CREATING THAT SAUCE […]

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Categories : MEAL OF THE WEEK,PASTA AND RICE,RECENT RECIPES
25
Jun

L.A. RESTAURANTS 2016

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AT A RECENT DINNER PARTY I MET A FRENCH COUPLE WHO’D RECENTLY MOVED FROM PARIS TO BEVERLY HILLS, A CULINARY WASTELAND.  OUT OF A COMBINATION OF PITY AND PRIDE, I COMPILED A LIST OF FAVORITES, FOCUSSING PRIMARILY ON RESTAURANTS EAST OF THE 405. I THOUGHT I’D SHARE IT WITH YOU, DEAR EATERS.

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Categories : RECENT RECIPES,RESTAURANTS
25
Jun

SHRIMP SALAD “LA TULIPE”

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LA TULIPE WAS THE LOVE CHILD OF SALLY AND JOHN DARR, WHO OPENED THEIR RESTAURANT IN 1979  AT 104 WEST 13th STREET IN MANHATTAN.  JOHN HAD BEEN THE HEAD OF THE LOWER SCHOOL AT BROOKLYN FRIENDS.  SALLY, A GIFTED AMATEUR COOK, RAN THE TEST KITCHEN AT GOURMET MAGAZINE.  THE BISTRO WAS COZY; THE FRENCH DISHES, LIGHT AND […]

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Categories : FISH,MEAL OF THE WEEK,RECENT RECIPES,SALADS
13
Jun

LEAF LETTUCES WITH CHEVRE DRESSING

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WHEN YOU APPROACH THE GARDEN OF CHU ON THE NW CORNER OF IVAR AND HOLLYWOOD BLVD IN THE SUNDAY FARMERS MARKET, YOU MIGHT THINK AT FIRST IT’S A FLOWER SHOP, SO METICULOUSLY DISPLAYED ARE THE LETTUCES.

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Categories : MEAL OF THE WEEK,RECENT RECIPES,SALADS
13
Jun

BROILED SOFT SHELL CRABS

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SOFT SHELL CRABS HAVE A SHORT SEASON, SHOWING UP IN FISH MARKETS IN JUNE AND BUT GONE IN JULY, WHEN THEY MORPH INTO HARD SHELL BLUE CRABS. THEY ARE AMONG MY FAVORITE FOODS. OVER A TEN-DAY VACATION IN NEW ORLEANS, I ATE THEM EVERY DAY; IN PO’ BOYS, SAUTÉED, DEEP-FRIED, YOU NAME IT.

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Categories : FISH,MEAL OF THE WEEK,RECENT RECIPES
14
May

CHICKEN POT PIE

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MY DAUGHTER SOPHIE’S WISH IS MY COMMAND, SO WHEN SHE ASKED FOR CHICKEN POT PIE, WHAT COULD I DO?  I SCOURED SEVERAL COOKBOOKS, BOTH HARDCOVER AND ONLINE, COMBINING MY FAVORITES TO PRODUCE MY OWN VERSION WHICH WAS NOT ONLY OOZINGLY RICH BUT BRIGHT WITH PERFECTLY-COOKED VEGETABLES, FLECKED WITH THE CRUNCH OF CHICKEN SKIN, TOPPED WITH A […]

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Categories : MEAL OF THE WEEK,POULTRY,RECENT RECIPES
28
Apr

BOLOGNA TO MILAN AND THE MEALS IN BETWEEN

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MILAN TO BOLOGNA AND THE MEALS IN BETWEEN 3/21-31, 2016 Monday, March 21, 2016 BOLOGNA is a city of arches, of loggias. They shelter pedestrians from rain and shine. Bearing the weight of two-story structures in a maze of narrow streets, the loggias are both oppressive and comforting. Bologna has changed hands so many times […]

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Categories : RECENT RECIPES,RESTAURANTS,SHOPPING,TRAVELS
14
Feb

CHINESE DUCK A L’ORANGE

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I’M ALWAYS HUNTING FOR NEW DUCK RECIPES AND I FOUND A BEAUTY IN THE NEW YORK TIMES BY DAVID TANIS.  I REDUCED THE COOKING TIME A BIT, MADE SOME MINOR ADJUSTMENTS IN THE SEASONING, BUT I CANNOT CLAIM IT AS MY OWN.  WHAT I CAN SAY IS THAT MY FAMILY LEFT BARELY A QUACK.

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Categories : MEAL OF THE WEEK,POULTRY,RECENT RECIPES
28
Jan

LING COD WITH PRESERVED LEMON

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EACH YEAR, I WAIT FOR LING COD TO APPEAR IN THE FISH CASE IN MY MARKET, BECAUSE IT IS SO JUICY AND FLAVORFUL, SO ADAPTABLE TO A RANGE OF PREPARATIONS.  YOU CAN POACH IT, STEAM IT, ROAST IT, OR, IN THIS CASE, PAN COOK IT.  SERVE IT WITH A SORREL BUERRE BLANC, PUTTANESCA WITH TOMATOES AND […]

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Categories : FISH,MEAL OF THE WEEK,RECENT RECIPES
18
Jan

PORK LOINS À LA NORMANDE

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NORMANDY MEANS CREAM AND APPLES AND CALVADOS.  THIS DISH MAKES USE OF ALL THESE INGREDIENTS TO BATHE PAN-COOKED LOINS OF PORK IN A RICH SAUCE OF SAUTÉED APPLES, CRÉME FRAȋCHE, AND THE PUNCHY ESSENCE OF APPLES – CALVADOS.

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Categories : MEAL OF THE WEEK,MEAT,RECENT RECIPES